Ignition chip

[Fishnuts2 22]

My Orline chainsaw shows spark with my inline spark tester, but will not spark across a spark plug gapped at .020".  I'm thinking maybe the condenser is bad, but has anyone had experience using the Nova II chip instead of points and condenser?  I have seen others use them in other saws with success.

[JUST O&R 237]

Welcome  Never used a nova on an o&r product all went OEM Ive seen them work on a lot of other things.

Normally just clean or replace the point never had a problem. is it a new plug ??? Seen plugs bad.

[Fishnuts2 22]

I’ve tried 2 new plugs to make sure. I did find the wire leading from the coil to the points was pinched and a possible short to the cylinder fins created. 
I will repair it and see if that throws a stronger spark. 

[JUST O&R 237]

That would be a problem for sure . If that doesn't work let us know we can fine you some points.

I have found most of the time they will clean up you need to remember this are 50 years old + or-

[Wallfish 691]

For some reason these coils seem bullet proof and very rarely see a bad one unless it's physically damaged. Haven't had too many bad condensers either but there's been a couple.

[Fishnuts2 22]

I'm thinking the wire from the coil to points is shorting out, or leaking some of the current needed to generate enough spark to jump a gap at the plug.  I've filed the points, and they look clean so will assemble tonight and see what happens.

[Webhead 95]

Make sure that everything is put back together correctly. Insulating washers, conductor spring on points, etc. Can you post a photo of your points, installed?

[Fishnuts2 22]

Here is a picture of the points gapped at .020".  But, does the rounded end of the breaker push rod go in the crankcase or does it contact the point arm?

[JUST O&R 237]

The round part of the push rod goes to the points turn the crankshaft so the points are open as far as they can go then gap.

Here is the coil and condenser specifications

sb s-e035.pdf

[Fishnuts2 22]

Thanks for the specs on coil and condenser!  I had a 50/50 chance of getting the points push rod right and I lost.  Anyway, I had it assembled just after I asked, and lo and behold, I have spark and I got it to fire on mix down the carb throat.  I have close to 60 saws,  but have never heard one of these run except for watching Youtube.  This is a fun project and I appreciate all the help!

I'll pull the flywheel and redo the push rod after I get it actually running from the fuel tank.

[factory 483]

2 hours ago, JUST O&R said:

The round part of the push rod goes to the points turn the crankshaft so the points are open as far as they can go then gap.

Here is the coil and condenser specifications

sb s-e035.pdf 38.91 kB · 2 downloads

 

Interesting, your service bulletin has the same lack of units given for the coil continuity, even though it looks to have been typed by someone else. I suspect it should actually be 4700 ohms to 6700 ohms for the coil secondary (note early coils may differ).

Also, despite using calibrated equipment at work, I've never found an O&R condenser that measures 0.25 MFD (uF) to 0.27 MFD (uF).

 

 

For reference to the push rod here is Service Bulletin 034, this gives the length for a worn-out push rod as 0.800"

 

 

David

[JUST O&R 237]

That's interesting never had a problem getting fire out of one just remember seeing a service bulletin

well I will make a note of that so I know whats rite.

thanks  David

[Fishnuts2 22]

I got it all together and it actually runs quite well. Still playing with the mixture setting. The air filter has a great effect on the mixture it seems. The filter is a felt material and is clean, so I’m confident things will be ok once sorted out. 
 

The fuel cap revealed the crack in it that was covered in dust and oil, and once gas got on it became clear to see. If anyone has one for sale, I’d be interested. 

[Wallfish 691]

Leaking crank case seals can cause fuel mixture adjustment problems. Runs good, then doesn't, then adjust, then the same thing happens again, then adjust again and it happens again. That's most likely bad case seals. Leaking air around the carb gaskets can do that too.

 

[factory 483]

14 hours ago, Fishnuts2 said:

The fuel cap revealed the crack in it that was covered in dust and oil, and once gas got on it became clear to see. If anyone has one for sale, I’d be interested.

 

Those caps are often damaged, there are a couple on eBay at the moment from this seller;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/362426595163

 

David

[Fishnuts2 22]

Thanks David!  Have the new cap on the way.  Kind of a spendy little thing, but at least I found one.