Ohlsson & Rice: Mono-Line Chainsaw

[CNew 404]

Not sure exactly what possessed me to jump into another chainsaw as my next project but I figured it was time to finally go through the Mono-Line.  I got it all disassembled today. The gearbox is set up differently than most of the Orline saws. The chain sprocket is to the outside. Unfortunately a previous owner cut the crankshaft flywheel nut and ground it and the end of the shaft flat. A few of the threads are broken off too. It’s bad enough, and seems overly brittle, I’ll need to replace it if I can hunt down a used one.  The screw that holds the chain sprocket was also cut in half, makes no sense to me... I can’t figure out why either of these modifications were thought to be necessary, frustrating when people do stuff like that.

 

 

[CNew 404]

I’m in a bit of a quandary on this Mono saw. It looks like I’ll end up needing to do a full repaint. The lime green sticks well to the parts you don’t want it to and is flaking off the parts you’d like it to adhere well to. I’m just about done stripping all the engine parts since I don’t want those painted. While I’m not at all a big fan of the lime green color scheme, a part of me wants to paint it as close to the original as possible (minus the engine of course). However, with the paint failing and needing to repaint the whole thing anyway now would be the time to potentially go a different route with the color.  Many other Mono saws are red or dark pine tree green. If I were to change colors I was thinking maybe an O&R red body and handle with white recoil and chain cover. This would also look nice with the new decals.
 

What would you all do? I think I can find a suitable lime green to repaint it but I’m not in love with lime green.

[mattblack 76]

At the end of the day it's only paint. Once it's repainted whatever colour it's not 'original' anymore anyway. If you or a future owner want to paint it green again you/they can.

 

Just my thoughts FWIW.

[factory 487]

At the end of the day it's your saw and your choice if you would like to repaint it, I prefer to keep them original but the paint on these later tools isn't great, it can only be cost cutting when they chose to spray everything at once, I don't like the half painted look they ended up with on that engine.

The starter is clearly a replacement so matching the color would be a little more difficult.

 

I can't imagine you'll have any trouble finding a spare crankshaft, as they are usually OK, a spares engine should provide one or there is that seller that parts out chainsaws on ePay.

 

David

[JUST O&R 237]

You know what they say about opinions but I kinda like the lime green and it will break up the red and yellow on your shelf.

[CNew 404]

56 minutes ago, JUST O&R said:

You know what they say about opinions but I kinda like the lime green and it will break up the red and yellow on your shelf.

I always appreciate your opinions!  I tend to agree with you, I’m kind of leaning towards keeping it lime green.  As you point out, it will certainly help break up the color mix on the shelf.  I think I found a very good color match, at least I hope so. I have it on order so we will see how close it is.

[pmackellow 2,738]

Got to admit I quite like that green, its very similar to Lawnboy green (RAL6108)

 

Your saw, your choice...

 

 

[CNew 404]

Thanks for all the opinions, I’ve decided to go with the lime green.

 

PMackellow, thank you for the RAL number that’ll come in handy.  I have a can of Kawasaki KX dirt bike frame paint from the mid-1990s on the way. If it’s not a close enough match I’ll look at the Lawnboy color - I didn’t even think to look at that when I started hunting.

[CNew 404]

After hours of tedious clean up with dental tools the engine is finally free of green paint and I completely went through everything. I’m working on prepping all the body work now. I wasn’t expecting this to turn into a complete re-do but o’well, it should look nice all said and done.

[Wallfish 698]

You do nice work.

Think I'll ship you about 15-20 engines do for me!

[CNew 404]

Thanks! I always underestimate how tedious it is, you’d think I would have learned my lesson by now.

 

Here’s the inside of the gas and oil tank for any future reference.

 

[JUST O&R 237]

1 hour ago, Wallfish said:

You do nice work.

Think I'll ship you about 15-20 engines do for me!

You will need to get in line he need's to do about 10 for me first I don't know were he finds the

time but I'm jellies they look great . Maybe in a few months I will have some time.

[factory 487]

The engine certainly looks a lot better without the half done spray paint finish.

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished saw.

 

David

[CNew 404]

I think I’m going to save this tan colored replacement recoil housing for another project. I have another recoil cover That I’ve already stripped to bare metal since I’m doing a full paint job on this saw. Someone along the way replaced the little oil hole rivet thing with a screw. I have a NOS rivet, has anyone replaced one of these before and have any suggestions? Does it take special tools?  I was thinking of using a semi-pointy punch and a hammer on the back side to flare it into position.

 

[JUST O&R 237]

Never replaced one before but that should work to spread it out you night need to  take a roll pin punch to it after that to tighten it a little.

I have no idea what make people think they need to drill out the rivets anyway

[CNew 404]

I started messing with it today and was about to start drilling the old rivet out but the more I look at it I might just leave it as-is. It actually looks pretty good and it’s tight enough it isn’t a problem. It’s better than many I’ve seen where someone has attempted to make a repair. It just won’t have the hole in the center for oil. I started to drill a small center hole but it started spinning and broke my smallest drill bit. For a shelf unit I don’t think it’s all that critical to have the oil hole rivet.

[Wallfish 698]

Yeah, no one will ever notice except an O&R expert. They don't look right when it's a hex head repair but your right, that one looks good. Use a sharpie for a black dot hole after it's painted

[CNew 404]

I almost didn’t say anything just to see how quickly David would notice - he sees everything!

 

The lime green paint arrived today as well, curious to see if it will be a good match.

[factory 487]

Been way too busy moving stuff into storage the last week, the workbench is still a complete mess but hopefully it will be useable again soon.

 

I've got at least one starter here that someone has fitted a solid rivet too, of course this would be fine if it was one of the earliest engines.

I also have a couple of NOS rivets too, not tried fitting one yet either, but I did fit a pop-rivet to one a few years before I got the NOS ones, luckily the steel insert came out leaving the hole for oiling.

 

You could do with finding someone that does "EDM drilling" to add a hole to that rivet that just spins when you try drilling it.

 

David

[CNew 404]

Things have been crazy busy lately so progress on the Mono-Line has slow. I finally got the parts painted.  I think this green ended up being a pretty good match.

[JUST O&R 237]

Look great. color looks spot on to me looking forward to seeing it done and on the shelf.

let me know when your ready for a project or two

[factory 487]

I've got to say that is a vast improvement on the paint finish it had before.

 

David

[CNew 404]

Time for some more opinions and advice. I’m on the home stretch and ran into a little issue with the Mono decal for the recoil.  This new decal doesn’t have the curved letters and if I cut the 3/4” hole in the center to go around the oil hole it will cut into the O and N of the decal.  I could also try cutting a 3/8” hole just enough to clear the oil fill rivet. This would minimize damage to the letters but I’m not sure how well the decal will conform to that slightly raised section of the recoil cover that surrounds the rivet.  
 

What would you guys do?  I could also just go back with a standard O&R decal but I was really hoping to use this Mono decal.  I really can’t afford to have a single decal made by someone.  
 

[factory 487]

2 hours ago, CNew said:

 

What would you guys do?  I could also just go back with a standard O&R decal but I was really hoping to use this Mono decal.  I really can’t afford to have a single decal made by someone.  

 

How much is a single decal? Could you not get a batch made and sell the others to people that need them?

 

David

[CNew 404]

Not sure actually, still waiting to hear from Titch on the Chip-A-Saw decal, he’s been pretty busy the last few months.  I don’t know anyone else to go to.