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Fix'em all

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About Fix'em all
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  • Location Brackley
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  1. Carb needed for Versatiller

    Steph, there is a complete Aspera HSB40 engine with 2 hours left on fleabag. Looks like it's in your part of the country too. I don't know if the carb is the same but it looks similar
  2. Hayter Harrier 2 drive problem

    Thanks Wristpin, no worn or broken parts in the end. It was all tight on the shaft and just needed grease
  3. Hayter Harrier 2 drive problem

    I only had a quick look yesterday & the outer casing of the clutch was red in colour. I seem to remember there is a hole for a grubscrew or roll pin (couldn't see which). Is this how it comes away from engine. Certainly when it was working the spring inside is quite strong as the handlebar lever needs a bit of pulling. Does this help i n terms of identifying which type it is. Cheers, Ian
  4. Appreciate some advice on this if anyone can help. My dad uses on old 19" Harrier 2 & has lost the drive. The drive cable seems to actuate a lever that engages the drive. Need to get this apart but it's not that clear how this is done.
  5. Hayter 56 Roller

    Thanks for the advice guys. I had to get the grinder out again & cut the collar & both sprockets off. One thing I hadn't noticed was that the raised tags on right hand roller had all sheared off (I even posted a photo & still didn't see it). Not sure Hayter would do it this way but I cut a triangular v out of all the wide tags and bent up one of the 2 tags it created on each section. Well packed with grease & works a treat
  6. Hayter 56 Roller

    I have got a bit further now but as mentioned I did end up cutting the sprocket off. I have ordered the freewheels but cannot work out how the old ones are removed from the shaft. Any advice gratefully received. Cheers, Ian
  7. Hayter 56 Roller

    Thanks for your comments, just been for a quick look & no sign of any roll pin. Will try to get a puller on it and a bit of heat. Is there any way to tension the chain or will it need to be replaced. It is far too loose & came off & jammed the drive up.
  8. Hayter 56 Roller

    Hi all, I have unfortunately volunteered to replace the roller freewheels on my brother in law's Hayter Harrier 56 & finding it challenging to say the least. I have managed to remove one half of the roller but am I correct in assuming that the sprocket needs a puller to remove it from the shaft. The circlips have been removed from both sprockets but the large sprocket is not moving. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
  9. Westwood Gemini belt

    Very nice Paul. I like the Westwood sticker in the barrow. I will get some more pant this week for my barrow
  10. Westwood Gemini belt

    I used a A20.5 in the end & it works perfectly. The little Suffolk engine starts first pull every time. Did quite a bit on it last weekend so have added a few photos. Ian
  11. Mountfield M1 coil.

    You may be barking up the wrong tree as it is more likely to be the points need cleaning & failing that the condenser. These are located under the flywheel. His best bet is to get a magnetron from the 3.5hp Black Briggs engines that were fitted to many 16 - 18" mowers that have now rotted away. He can then remove the old Magneto & cut the wires that go under the flywheel & fit the magnetron & never worry about points again.
  12. Westwood Gemini belt

    Hope it fits ok. Think I will get the A21 & if it is a bit long I can always put a few washers between the engine and the chassis. Did some spraying today & found Wilko own brand red at under £4 a can comes out a nice shade of orange.
  13. Westwood Gemini belt

    Hi Paul, is it an A20 that you bought
  14. Can anybody help with the correct size belt for a Westwood Gemini with the original Suffolk engine. I just assumed it would be the same as the Flymo DM & bought an A20 but it is just too short & will not go on. I am torn between buying an A20.5 & an A21
  15. Al-ko Rotovator won't start

    Snowman, I did spin it over without the plug a few times on Sunday. It turned over a lot better as you would expect but was probably not as free as it should be. Wristpin, originally the inlet valve was partially open on all 3 strokes when it shouldn't be & this was why it was spitting back through the carb. I only took a bit off the valve stem so I don't think the clearance will be excessive. Not touched the exhaust valve so not sure why it does not partially open on compression. I thought about putting an extra head gasket on to reduce the compression. Do you think this may help. The machine has not run for a long time so if I could just get it to start it may loosen it up just through running.
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