Jump to content

Anglo Traction

Supporter
  • Content count

    736
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15
Community Reputation
 
About Anglo Traction
 
 
  • Rank
    Advanced Member
 
Profile Information
 
 
  • Gender Not Telling
  • Location Surrey, England, UK.
  • Interests Model Engineering, Tools, Repairing anything possible in Wood or Metal I can handle.
 
Recent Profile Visitors
 
 
1,564 profile views
 
  1. Great work Darren You should be pleased with the result. That Scythe attachment look's a real piece of a beast. Good to see a machine with loads of Attachments. Edit- Your car takes me back to 2004 and my ST220 loved it, but was a Point earner
  2. Another in the stable.

    Not a good thing to happen with the Rod failing, but best it went then, rather than later. From the pics it look's like the Crank Pin is badly scored in line with the Oil passage. Also shows on the Rod end. Poor maintenance with Oil change history is evident there. I've never seen a Rod break at that point before, Guys on RS always seem to have them break further up along the Rod and end up punching a hole in the Crank Case. I'll be interested to know the Spec 'n' Serial number of that engine, as they changed the Cyl Head style between 72 -74. A shame your 10hp Crank is not interchangeable with a K301s , as I have a pretty good one, although under spec on the Journal and needs a -0.010" grind. Can't see any Balance Gear Pins through the Crank Case apperture in your pic, did it have any?. Avoid removing the Camshaft/Pin unless absolutely necessary. If you do and considering the current problems, it will be worn and will need to be carefully re assembled when the Cam Pin is re inserted. Let me know if you do and I'll PM you a plan to remove and refit it. You've got me wanting to do a full rebuild on one of these again now!. Great to work on. Hope it goes ok for you and not too expensive.
  3. Sisis Auto Greenman

    Late 92 Alloy Engine with C/I cylinder sleeve. The 5 in the model number denotes the Reduction Unit fitted which is as suspected ratio of 6.1 (if it was a 6, it would denote reverse rotation). You'll need to do the oil check n fill separately as mentioned previously. Bore is 2.25" and so about 131cc (8 cu in). Here's the manuals for the Engine - B&S822524011.pdf B&S 082252.PDF Note in the Parts Manual page 24, they got the description/numbering wrong for the Fill Plug
  4. Sisis Auto Greenman

    I'm a bit unsure of your Engine type Andrew?. You say it's Cast Iron, but it look's like an Aluminium type/Model with a Cast Iron Cylinder Sleeve insert to me. When you find the numbers, as Alain has suggested above, can you post them here please.......if only to satisfy my curiosity. Thanks
  5. Sisis Auto Greenman

    Wish it was a straight forward answer, but it depends on whether the Engine is Aluminium or Cast Iron and engine size (Model Number)!. Surprisingly, it requires SAE 10w-30. 30w is accepted use in this Country as in the engine when used in average temps. Oil Change periods differ also with Engine size/type :- If your Aluminium Engine Model Number is 130000 or LESS, then it states- you only need to check 'n' top up the Red'c'n Gear level every 100 hours!. Ali Models 140000 upwards, it states- change the Red'c'n Oil every 100 hours. If the engine is Cast Iron, the Red'c'n Gear is lubricated using the Engine Crankcase Oil, so dealt with during Engine Oil checks 'n' change rate (25 hrs on all types). Points to note is not to mix up the Fill/Drain Plugs The Fill Plug should have a breather vent hole. Regards.
  6. Sisis Auto Greenman

    Good purchase of a very handy machine. First B&S engine I've seen with a 6-1 Reduction Gear Drive Unit fitted .
  7. smart&brown model M

    Good progress there. Suspect the D21 was a Workshop/Tool Room machine reference number applied by the Factory/Shop it was used in originally. They were used as a reference when setting up for a designated 'Job Run' and for the Machine's maintenance. As it was applied to the Back of the Machine, I presume the machines were arranged within the Shop so it could be easily seen. As for the number '13' stamp, not sure, but if the same number occurs on the Lathe/Tray as well, it would be a 'Match' number to keep/identify them together, as they were often shipped in a dismantled condition. If not on both parts, then it may well be it''s number out of a number units 'Cast' from that Pattern , or 'Production Run'. As your's is a Mk1 Model M, is the Base Casting Aluminium or Cast Iron?.
  8. Ariens GT14H Got a New Accessory

    Nice find!. Very handy Unit ......Er, you know this means you can also now obtain some ELECTRIC Chainsaws and drive to the Tree as well now
  9. Hayter 21

    Hi Ray. 0.020" is(was) the generic Points Gap of all old B&S Models...at least up to 1982 (as far as my Manual goes). What they did after that, I cannot say. Also, if you need to know, the Plug Gap was always 0.030". Regards.
  10. Where Do They All Come From?

    Well Alain! Impressive collection, the old ploy of buying a lot of shelving initially worked ok then ! .......... Give's you the ready made excuse when your Wife asks why so many Chainsaws ? .....is that you have to fill all the shelves with them !! ......... The only downside I can see (if there is one) is that you will have absolutely no excuse to avoid cutting up the Logs by saying you don't have a serviceable Chainsaw! There's still some gaps to fill on those shelves though .
  11. Illusive Woodruff Key Size in UK

    Mark up for Toro's own Keys makes it uneconomical for me to get from a Dealer here. Strange !. Just checked my Eb** search page and They did not show up on it initially Ewan?. I'd found their own Site (keysandpins.com), so thanks for finding that link and I'll file it, also very handy for others here in UK. Choice they offer for that size (1 or 5) is a bit strange? I will probably end up making a few sets myself, as I need some EN8 (C45) Steel for some other jobs, so they can be made from the waste bar end for very little Lathe time/cost. Regards
  12. Illusive Woodruff Key Size in UK

    Been prepping a spare Wheel Horse 8 spd Trans to swap with the one in my C-120 to overhaul it- As can be seen, the Key ways are very tidy. The keys weren't bad either, but had some wear. Problem is I have scoured the Web for UK supplier of 1/4" x 1 3/8" Keys using every part and Key number with no luck (Bulk manufacturers do minimum of 100). So I thought I'd ask here if anyone has found, or knows of a supply of good spec that I can obtain from,........ before resorting to making a stock of my own?. (my other Transmissions use a different size). Regards. .
  13. HALF a HORSE.

    Classic building and design skills adopted from the principles of a foregone era !. 'Built like a Victorian Outside Brick Facility'
  14. Big Old Door

    Me too . Stripping the old surface off is my favourite part, especially when there are crevices and formed beadings to clean off. Not a commonly known, or used process, but I've used broken glass for over 30 years to clean off old finishes. You need to find the pieces with the correct gentle convex curve edge, but it is so fast. I stripped over 40 feet of 50 year old Mahogany Bannister Rail of wax in about 4 hours ready for stain and varnish. Usual care need's to be adopted of course and is an art in it'self to obtain the correct angle.
  15. Mower Deck refurbishment

    Hi Alain, Yes, they were, but I hadn't mentioned them here because they only made Rear Discharge Deck up to 42", so I knew HORSEGIRL's Decks were Side Discharge. WH (and possibly Toro later) Deck Manuals (printed) were tended to be generic and covered variants of size and ejection point, i.e. 36" RD, 36"SD, 42"RD and 42"SD were all in one Manual on the earlier ones. I am not sure about the 80-90s models. Most Online PDF Files available for download have been modified and so information referring to a specific Model Deck number can be downloaded without the dross of other Models as well. At least , this is what I have observed. Regards.
Premium Theme Designed By IBTheme.com

×