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Anglo Traction

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About Anglo Traction
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  • Gender Not Telling
  • Location Surrey, England, UK.
  • Interests Model Engineering, Tools, Repairing anything possible in Wood or Metal I can handle.
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  1. Version 1.0.0

    1 download

    Full Service Manual (Revised 1998) for most 'L' Head versions
  2. Aspera/Tecumseh query

    Yep!, my Manual is the later revision (which I will upload to the Reference Files for Download section on here), but covers the early ones also and only refers to the same re Pins. Just looked at your Link to H30 IPL Scans in your earlier post and they show the 2 styles of Cylinder casting and surprisingly no Valve Pins considering they are examples from 1961 and 1967. Wonder if both H30 versions were produced alongside each other for different applications?. I know they were fitted to some Mini Bikes in the U.S. I was hoping to tie the Engine down to a close Model and Spec number(s) for Pete, but I failed. Looks and sounds like you are in no need of assistance in your quest for parts and numbers. Look forward to seeing your progress on it. Regards
  3. Aspera/Tecumseh query

    Hello Pete, Just read this thread and a nice little challenge to sort that motor. I'm tending to agree with Wristpin on the H30 I.D. , only I have one thing puzzling me at the mo'. The Valve Retaining Pin System is on the earlier models, but from what I find in my checks is that it was used on Models that had the Exhaust outlet at the other side (90 degrees) from the Carb Inlet (e.g. Models with suffixes of G.H AND J). They redesigned the smaller 'H' series Crank/Cylinder Castings so that both Ports were on the same side face and appear to have changed the Valve Retaining System at the same time and changes using the Suffixes to K,L,M and N !. I can't find an overlap Model, but then I'm relying on Illustrated Parts Diagrams to show me the changes. Not easy without a full Model number. The Carb originally fitted was most likely a Series 1 version and as already established, downward cranked Inlet Manifold for lower positioning. There should be a longish flat bracket on the Carb to carry all the linkage between Governor - Carb and Throttle Lever/Cable to Carb. If you need a Full Service Manual for the Techy 'L' Head engines and links to possible Model Parts Manuals, let us know. I can PM you some Links. Regards.
  4. Wheel Horse SD Deck

    I'll answer you call for help Norm. You're missing 2 plates which fit between the Shell and the Tension Bar. I believe they are/were made of Plastic or Nylon. The part (6748) is discontinued, so you will have to make them. I suspect they are about 3/16"-1/4 thick, but advise you check the Centre of the FLAT SIDE FACE of fitted Idler Pulley with the Spindle Pulley 'V' centres. The difference will give you the required thickness. A sheet of 6mm Nylon will cost under UKL£ 4.OO delivered. Also I noticed you fitted the Front (pivoted) Lift Bar the same way as when you received the Deck (very 1st pic). The V Fork should to be on the Right hand side. Item #18 >
  5. Calf dozer

    Nice 'Dirt Shifter' . Good find and in good nick visually. I take it you have the Air Filter?
  6. Great work Darren You should be pleased with the result. That Scythe attachment look's a real piece of a beast. Good to see a machine with loads of Attachments. Edit- Your car takes me back to 2004 and my ST220 loved it, but was a Point earner
  7. Another in the stable.

    Not a good thing to happen with the Rod failing, but best it went then, rather than later. From the pics it look's like the Crank Pin is badly scored in line with the Oil passage. Also shows on the Rod end. Poor maintenance with Oil change history is evident there. I've never seen a Rod break at that point before, Guys on RS always seem to have them break further up along the Rod and end up punching a hole in the Crank Case. I'll be interested to know the Spec 'n' Serial number of that engine, as they changed the Cyl Head style between 72 -74. A shame your 10hp Crank is not interchangeable with a K301s , as I have a pretty good one, although under spec on the Journal and needs a -0.010" grind. Can't see any Balance Gear Pins through the Crank Case apperture in your pic, did it have any?. Avoid removing the Camshaft/Pin unless absolutely necessary. If you do and considering the current problems, it will be worn and will need to be carefully re assembled when the Cam Pin is re inserted. Let me know if you do and I'll PM you a plan to remove and refit it. You've got me wanting to do a full rebuild on one of these again now!. Great to work on. Hope it goes ok for you and not too expensive.
  8. Sisis Auto Greenman

    Late 92 Alloy Engine with C/I cylinder sleeve. The 5 in the model number denotes the Reduction Unit fitted which is as suspected ratio of 6.1 (if it was a 6, it would denote reverse rotation). You'll need to do the oil check n fill separately as mentioned previously. Bore is 2.25" and so about 131cc (8 cu in). Here's the manuals for the Engine - B&S822524011.pdf B&S 082252.PDF Note in the Parts Manual page 24, they got the description/numbering wrong for the Fill Plug
  9. Sisis Auto Greenman

    I'm a bit unsure of your Engine type Andrew?. You say it's Cast Iron, but it look's like an Aluminium type/Model with a Cast Iron Cylinder Sleeve insert to me. When you find the numbers, as Alain has suggested above, can you post them here please.......if only to satisfy my curiosity. Thanks
  10. Sisis Auto Greenman

    Wish it was a straight forward answer, but it depends on whether the Engine is Aluminium or Cast Iron and engine size (Model Number)!. Surprisingly, it requires SAE 10w-30. 30w is accepted use in this Country as in the engine when used in average temps. Oil Change periods differ also with Engine size/type :- If your Aluminium Engine Model Number is 130000 or LESS, then it states- you only need to check 'n' top up the Red'c'n Gear level every 100 hours!. Ali Models 140000 upwards, it states- change the Red'c'n Oil every 100 hours. If the engine is Cast Iron, the Red'c'n Gear is lubricated using the Engine Crankcase Oil, so dealt with during Engine Oil checks 'n' change rate (25 hrs on all types). Points to note is not to mix up the Fill/Drain Plugs The Fill Plug should have a breather vent hole. Regards.
  11. Sisis Auto Greenman

    Good purchase of a very handy machine. First B&S engine I've seen with a 6-1 Reduction Gear Drive Unit fitted .
  12. smart&brown model M

    Good progress there. Suspect the D21 was a Workshop/Tool Room machine reference number applied by the Factory/Shop it was used in originally. They were used as a reference when setting up for a designated 'Job Run' and for the Machine's maintenance. As it was applied to the Back of the Machine, I presume the machines were arranged within the Shop so it could be easily seen. As for the number '13' stamp, not sure, but if the same number occurs on the Lathe/Tray as well, it would be a 'Match' number to keep/identify them together, as they were often shipped in a dismantled condition. If not on both parts, then it may well be it''s number out of a number units 'Cast' from that Pattern , or 'Production Run'. As your's is a Mk1 Model M, is the Base Casting Aluminium or Cast Iron?.
  13. Ariens GT14H Got a New Accessory

    Nice find!. Very handy Unit ......Er, you know this means you can also now obtain some ELECTRIC Chainsaws and drive to the Tree as well now
  14. Hayter 21

    Hi Ray. 0.020" is(was) the generic Points Gap of all old B&S Models...at least up to 1982 (as far as my Manual goes). What they did after that, I cannot say. Also, if you need to know, the Plug Gap was always 0.030". Regards.
  15. Where Do They All Come From?

    Well Alain! Impressive collection, the old ploy of buying a lot of shelving initially worked ok then ! .......... Give's you the ready made excuse when your Wife asks why so many Chainsaws ? .....is that you have to fill all the shelves with them !! ......... The only downside I can see (if there is one) is that you will have absolutely no excuse to avoid cutting up the Logs by saying you don't have a serviceable Chainsaw! There's still some gaps to fill on those shelves though .
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