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Wheel Horse SD Deck

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On 11/10/2017 at 3:21 PM, Stormin said:

 I've started to assemble some of the brackets and was going to fit the belt tensioner. Here is another clue some ones been at this deck before. The flat bar for the tensioner pulley is held in position with two nylon bridge's to allow it to move. But there is nothing for under the bar to stop it rubbing on the shell top. I cannot find a manual with a schematic assembly drawing of the deck. Can anyone help? 

I'll answer you call for help Norm.

You're missing 2 plates which fit between the Shell and the Tension Bar. I believe they are/were made of Plastic or Nylon.

The part  (6748) is discontinued, so you will have to make them. 

I suspect they are about 3/16"-1/4 thick, but advise you check the Centre of the FLAT SIDE FACE of fitted Idler Pulley with the Spindle Pulley 'V' centres.

The difference will give you the required thickness. A sheet of 6mm Nylon will cost under UKL£ 4.OO delivered. 

Also I noticed you fitted the Front (pivoted) Lift Bar the same way as when you received the Deck (very 1st pic). The V Fork should to be on the Right hand side.


Item #18 >


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Thanks for the info, Richard. I've actually found some thin nylon sheet. I also realised I'd fitted the lift bar the wrong way round. Left it for tomorrow as it was getting near dinner time.

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  A little more progress.


  Found a 1/2" x 6" bolt and the threaded remains of a couple long (once}  5/8" bolts. Turned the 5/8" down to 1/2" and that gave me three pieces of 1/2" bar. Drilled the spindles where they were welded to the securing plates, welded in the replacement spindles and the result is below. Old spindles included for comparison.




  Fitted to the shell and lift arm refitted as it should be.





    I found the bore of the double drive pulley to be 30 thou bigger than the blade spindle. Didn't look worn and neither is the spindle. PO bodge? Pulley off a different deck?


   I bored the pulley out to 1" ID, then turned up a sleeve a tight fit, tight as knocked in with a hammer, and will be tack welded. When that's done I'll finish the bore to 3/4" to suit the spindle. I'll have to get the key way cut, but I know a man who has the gear..


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  A bit of an up date. After I got the deck all built up, I noticed as it sat on the table, the right hand scalp roller was clear of the table, by 1-1/2 inch. I hadn't noticed when I stripped the deck, but the right hand side is slightly bent up. Discharge side. So it's all stripped down again and waiting to be taken to the farm round the corner.

  Lad there is a qualified motor mechanic and has a nice big fully equipped workshop. So we're going to see if we can straighten it with one of his presses. 

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 Deck shell was rather awkward to handle in a press, so gave up. I'll see how it sits under a tractor.


I solved the problem of the missing rear scalp wheel. A friend of SWMBO, who does wood turning, owed me a favour for a job I did for him.




Look oak A to me. :D


Just need a belt, which I should get next week.




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  Got a drive belt for the spindles this morning. Fitted it then thought I'd fit the deck to the old workhorse, the C-125.

  Removed the rear discharge deck and proceeded to fit the Side discharge deck. All went well until I tried to lift the deck up. The lift handle wouldn't go into it's locked position as the deck wouldn't lift high enough.

  Investigation showed the right hand lift arm and the bracket it was attached too, were fouling the tractor drive belt guard.




If you look at the photo above, you will see the left hand arm is straight. The right hand one bends in.

  So another straight arm needs to be made, and the rear bracket needs repositioning. Hey! Ho! These thinks are sent to try us.


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  Sorted the angled lift bar today. Straightened it out with the use of a press at the farm round the corner. This made the bar longer of course. Cut off the extra length, then drilled and filed a fresh square hole.

  Removed the bracket and replaced to line up with the straightened bar. Tomorrow I may see if the deck fits OK now. Should do, then I'll see how it performs.


  I had to drill another hole in the bracket, as the original lined up perfectly with the baffle underneath the deck top.





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