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Alan

HALF a HORSE.

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Turning brakes.  I was undecided on these.  Should I fit them, or not. :dunno:  OK, I'll make a start.  Bent up a pair from alloy using photo's and guesswork as a size guide.  The levers ? were from 1/8" x 1/4" brass drilled and tapped 8BA.  Each lever was made in two parts as attempts to bend as per the full size resulted in a break.  Brass too hard.  Should have tried heating up first.  These levers are probably a bit narrow, 3/8" would have been better but nothing in stock.

 

It was then decided to leave them for now and carry on with other bits and pieces.   Lots of bits and pieces later,  Iain slf-uk  my head information provider, sent me photo's and measurements of the assembly so a restart was made.  My original guesstimated alloy pedals were correct in height and the inside of the bent up lips, much to my surprise, but 1/4" short in length. This 1/4" is the model size measurement.  Two new pedals were made and the horizontal brass section extended using a piece of plastic for quickness.

 

A test assembly.

 

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All these parts were held together with 8BA countersunk bolts.  Looks a bit messy on the photo's but all hidden later.  A few holes were drilled in the wrong place, :banghead:  but not seen when finished. :) The pivot bar is brass tube with a plastic insert and a 3mm threaded rod.  All bits which just happened to fit together without much work.  The lower ends of the uprights were drilled and tapped to suit the rod and the tube notched to take the inner upright.  Easier than making the tube in sections as per the full size, and as these pedals won't be working, a bit stronger.  The locking bar was also fixed in position.  The notch in the tube was later filled and blended in. Various other areas had the same treatment to tidy things up.

 

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The brake pull rods!  were from alloy angle :rolleyes:, bolted to the underside of the footrest for extra strength with the nearly visible end trimmed down.  I had to alter my original footrest support and lay it flat with the alloy angles notched to clear, but as usual after doing all this a better and simpler solution popped up in my head, but leaving as it is.  Photo below is before cutting notches for support clearance.

 

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The full size has a steel bar running diagonally under the footrest, from the outer end of the pivot tube to the chassis frame, which helps support the tube.  I made up a short alloy bracket which is bolted to the support angle in front of the pedals, and to the front underside of the footrest.  Not really visible without effort.   Hope all this makes sense.

 

Grip tape was added to the pedals which finished them off as well as hiding all the bolt heads.  The footrests also had a covering of the same.  This self adhesive tape was listed on eBay as carpet gripper tape. Similar stuff also used for skate boards.  I wanted to use ribbed rubber but nothing suitable found.  All too thick.   The next photo's show various stages of test fits.

 

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I could have left the cranked ends straight on the brake rods ! by moving them closer together, but had previously drilled the footrest and didn't want to waste the holes. :D  Photo below.

 

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The pins connecting the rods to the uprights were made from a bolt, turned down and drilled, then cut to length.  The split pins are 1mm diameter.  The threaded end was screwed into the alloy rods after tapping and held with a dab of lock tight.  A fiddly job inserting the split pins, especially the inner one resulting in chipped paint, now touched up. Might have been easier before fitting to the tractor.  Not too happy with the appearance of these split pins. Need tidying up and the loop made smaller. A job for another time.

 

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A few more photo's of the various parts, mounting brackets, footrest support etc plus the unit finally fitted.

 

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Another little update after another delay.  Too many things to do.  Who said retired people have plenty of spare time. :angry:  The hood catches which started off as 3/16" diameter car brake pad pins.  An alloy sleeve pressed on, drilled 1/16" for a short piece of wire, then the domed head turned off. 

 

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1/2" ID alloy box section was pop rivited to the inside of the hood after drilling for the pins.  A nut and bolt held it in place while drilling for the rivits.

 

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Another 1/16" hole was drilled for the retaining R clip after careful measurement to make sure it was in the correct place.  It was. :)  More measurement and head scratching then the excess was cut from the pins and the ends chamfered.   When closing the hood the pins slide down slightly angled plates before popping into holes near the base. These plates can be seen on this earlier photo of the dash panel.

 

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The pins are sprung into place by springs, what else, :D taken from AA size battery boxes. These were inserted into the alloy box first, then compressed with special tool which I carefully designed then made, allowing room for the pin to pass through.  OK, a piece of scrap alloy with a slot filed in it did the job. :rolleyes:  It was a pig of a job to hold the compressed spring, hold the pin steady, and insert the R clip, while trying avoid it pinging off into the distance.  If the R clip had been long enough to protude outside the alloy box it would have been easier.  The clip can be seen to the left, the rivits to the right.  A washer between the clip and spring would have been better but I gave up trying to fit one. Kept going awol.

 

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The parts almost ready to be fitted.

 

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Works as intended although just as easy to pull the bottom corners of the hood out slightly which releases the pins.

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41 minutes ago, Anglo Traction said:

Quality work Alan and good clear Macro pics :thumbs:.

Thanks Richard. :wub:  Camera doesn't always behave. A bit like me. :rolleyes:

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