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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/10/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    2nd Shaft was/is a headache. Lots of problems and have had to do the best I can. The boss that the 52t Sprocket is riveted to is fixed to the shaft by a pin. This was sheared in 2 places, so I had to remove the old pieces and make a new one. Strangely, it was nearer to 6mm than 1/4, so I reamed it to 6mm and made a new pin from silver steel and partly hardened. Bearings were a mess inside as with the other ones- This one has a cracked inner race, maybe even from when it was first fitted? - Took an age to clean and flush these out until clean, but when packed with LM grease, they ran quite smoothly considering and they will have to do. Rpm for this shaft is about 750 max. Had quite a wobble in the sprocket, so I tried to straighten it out and got it down to about 1mm deflection. Clamped it to a 1 inch thick steel plate and used gentle leverage- Finished shaft with just a bit of painting to do- Final job on the Villiers Clutch was to replace the worn felt seal shown in 6th image bottom left in post #16. Thought I'd have trouble, but got the old one out. Found an identical sized vintage seal in my spares bits, but was too thick, so I had to slice it. Shown fitted with the old one and cut off remnant- The seal protects the outer cup ball race, which after cleaning and greasing, runs real smoothly . So clutch is ready for assembly now, when I've sorted the cable and routing. The Exhaust silencer/muffler was next. Surprisingly, I managed to undo the remnants of the nut that holds the end plates on and dismantled it- Wanted to to check it over before putting it near any media blasting. Shame one end cap is captive, as I wanted to remove it. This end cap was nickel plated originally and suffered more from the elements than the other. After an initial clean up, loads of little perforations appeared in the neck between the flange and cannister, but the welded areas are strong. I reckoned I could repair this with a new plate wrapped around the neck and weld around the strong points. I've cut and fitted the plate clamped tight with a Jubilee Clip initially for tacking it down. further joint cleaning to do first. Got to practice with thin plate, as I'm not skilled in general arc/stick welding practices - The cannister part is still sound with no holes or thin areas. It's a rolled sheet and riveted with a seam plate inside. In addition to sealing the inside, I'm also going to run a seam along the end joint to avoid it blowing.... can be seen to the right of this image- After this, it will be time for frame cleaning and repairs, before I can fit the engine and see if it will start/run..................tbc
  2. 1 point
    mattblack

    Tarpen generator

    Not very pretty, but it worked. I will clean and set the points and check for a spark and take it from there.
  3. 1 point
    Come on Richard hurry up. I'm itching to see what it is. Mower at a guess.
  4. 1 point
    With the numbers etc, if in UK, try Meetens at Catforth, Preston. Google for contact details.
  5. 1 point
    You will need to have the Model and serial numbers of your engine before you can know what parts you need to obtain. Presume you are in the UK?. Post the numbers here and with a picture of it if you are able.
  6. 1 point
    Joseph

    1975 Bolens G14

    We are making some progress on finding the problem, latest update
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