riber3

I would try and find a good replacement I think it would work out a lot cheaper

Well saved there!. Glad to see ths Topic is still useful.

That's an impressive cut!!!

Old Thread But Highly Relevent. !!! Just acquired a Hayter 21 Serial 016
5 Hp Briggs 132922 1989 engine
needed a new clutch (reason it was dumped in the hedge)
 
It runs great
 
Lauren

That’s a Magnetron ( electronic, no points) coil. Setting the air gap by the book - turn the flywheel to move the magnets away from the coil.Loosen the coil bolts and pull it away from the flywheel, tighten one. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are under the coil armature legs. Insert your non magnetic gauge between the coil legs and the flywheel.  Loosen th holding bolt so that the magnets pull the coil to the flywheel. Tighten both bolts and rotate the flywheel while pulling the gauge out.
The gauge. I remember that instruction sheet supplied with new genuine coils can be used as a gauge. I use a strip of plastic cut from a milk carton.

HI everyone, I have inherited an old HAYTER similar to the original poster. I think it's a HAYTER 21 Brush cutter . Its a 5HP I/C. (please chip in if I am incorrect)
 
The Briggs engine numbers are 132922 0170 01 87120707
 
As you can see its in great condition. Very little rust.
 
It does start. But the START/ RPM Throttle lever is not set up correctly. (especially at the carb end) 
 
The carb spring linkage needs setting up. Ive never done this but I am up for the challenge.
 
I have 2 pics below of the carb. There are 2 springs. Is there a 3rd spring missing? If so.....
The 2nd pic has an arrow in red where, I think there should be a link and the green dotted line is where I think there should be a spring.
 
Am I correct or way off? Is there a need for a 3rd spring.
 
I love this machine and I am looking forward to using it, and keeping it alive.
 
Many thanks in advance.
 
Kind Regards
Steve
 
A Welshman lost in France

The Jonsered appears to be  49SP http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/084bb064dcc6912b88256b69007e2ffa?OpenDocument The Danarm is a very nice old saw as well, http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/9185446ae58f5c7c88256b4e0066f91a?OpenDocument . The Pro Mac 60 is another nice old saw, http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/ab2c4eb6cab868aa88256c2e0075f710?OpenDocument . The Mac338 is a much newer saw that only appears old. about circa 2000

Hi thanks for your concern, arthritis is just one of those things that I've learnt to live with, there's ways around it most of the time, Ive just bought an auto Jag for use in town traffic but that's another story...
Looking at your photos, it maybe just because I can only use my phone to view them but I can't actually see if anything is broken. On the throttle plastic there should be a lug that when rotates stops again the throttle screw. If it is broken you can pull the butterfly plate out the carb by unscrewing the plate,then the shaft just pulls up. To be honest though if it is broken I would just buy a copy carb. They seem to work well and at 8quid odd it's a cheap fix.
Just looked again, just to avoid confusion, are you talking about the one nearest the engine or nearest the air filter. If it's the latter then it's the choke lever that's missing, unless you've removed it for the photo.

TSP is tri sodium phosphate a water based alkaline cleaner (strong soap, no bubbles), whats the red saw, cant see it

I don't know if this project shows you what you need.

From your photos I'm struggling to see what is damaged, to pop the carb off you should just undo the 2 M6 nuts on the air filter housing and one M6 bolt under the airfilter itself. Slide the choke and fuel lever away from the engine and disconnect the breather pipe. You will now be able to remove the housing. You will see a spacer plate, take note of which way round this is fitted. Pull the carb forward and rotate the throttle on it and the connecting linkage should pop out. Some have springs that also need disconnecting. The fuel pipe should be easy to lever upwards and I always plug it with the airfilter bolt.  The carbs are available from China, the last one I bought was about £8.50 delivered. The gx340 carb will also fit and work if you can't find a GX 390 one.  Gx240 are also the same physical size but  can starve the bigger engines of fuel as the bore and jets are smaller. The black screw is a throttle stop, under the black square is an idle screw. sorry that I threw everything out but I've offered them to others before for free and no takers. I was giving up a unit so an awful lot of kit had to go.
Just looked on eBay, complete carb and gaskets are 8.58.if you're any where near Hereford I'd be happy to take a look, I used to overhaul about 5 GX Honda's a day, 6 days a week for about 10 years so have seen most problems.

Many thanks for the information it is heavy LOL  but I was given both the blue ones and the red one  a few years back.  I did get one running but due a major house renovation they have sat on the back burner for a while but th information you have given me is a big help and inspiration as well as the photos on here of course. Is TSP a  thinners solvent ?

That is a Homelite C-51, made between 1964-1967. Here is some information http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/b7dfa302dafd0c9188256b7c001833a1?OpenDocument 
Parts are still easily attainable. The C stood for convertible because these saws often were used as power plants for post hole augers, ice augers, power generators and water pumps, they also had a clutch attachment to change from a direct drive chain to a gear reduction chain. These C series saw were way overbuilt structural and while heavy for the hp, were reliable over many more years than most saws. The C-51 was 77 cc's, the larger C-71 was 80.5 cc's and the C-91 was 85.5 cc's. Sand blasting with walnut hulls will prep the saw for paint and I recommend a cleaning in a alkaline based cleaner such as TSP or equivalent.

Many thanks for the info and here is a photo of my sad little collection that I hope to get on with later in the year

I doubt if there is any book or literature on restoring saws. I collected over 40 old Homelite chainsaws and over 100 Homelite chainsaw manuals, then collected new spare parts for all of them. Cleaning and paint prep on magnesium is different than other metals, but painting a 2 stroke machine that needs to be gas and oil resistant requires a epoxy clear top coat.

Found this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Buckbock-16100-ZF2-V01-Carburetor-16100-ZF6-V01-16100-ZF6-V00/dp/B07KQ6X9J1/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1549663344&sr=8-7&keywords=huayi+carburetor

Wow that is stunning!! in fact I think I may have a similar one will check tomorrow in the meantime can anyone point in the direction of how to renovate a chainsaw as I have a couple that need sorting and I need to read up on how best to do this before I start
 

If you need any help with honda etc GX engines give me a pm, to say I've worked on a few is an understatement. On a gx390 you have a plastic spacer with a gasket either side that the high tension lead slots into. Then there's the carb, then anither spacer plate before the airfilter . As already stated a Chinese carb is so cheap they are not worth repairing. A pity this didn't happen in early December as I sent around 2 Tonne of engines to scrap and you could of had what you wanted.

Not the easiest site to navigate but you will probably find what you need here.
http://www.honda-engines-eu.com/en/welcome.html

This is a XL-102 Automatic, its a 1970 saw weighing 11 pounds and has 57cc with auto oiler and manual over ride. These were only made in 1970 and 1971 I have one from both years. I couldn't get NOS decals so I had to do the best I could. Still need to install the carb and find a appropriate spot on the shelf. Last picture is what the saw looked like before

Hi, yes very true, its a shame really, as in the right circumstances its a nice trade to be in, but youngsters are not keen..........
 
No fires at all from position one, quite a few from position two, so we have gone with that, oh and yes not at first but later popped cover off removed belt, arrrr what joy....... haha much better !!!
 
I have a new plug arrive today and in my excitement i had forgot to clean out the carb and air filter as it had been stood for a while, must re check points gap again and set as per manufactures gap if i could only find it, just gone for thick card gap.
 
Thank you  

Hi All, just a quick update from my last post really !! JB from Hayter has now retired sadly for me but great for John, hope hes enjoying all his well deserved free time !!!
I have now managed to get a spark, more by luck then educated judgement................. but its a real effort to pull the old girl over and it back fires loudly !! hence more fettling and work in progress to do, i also found when conducting an internet search if you add Rockwell JLO you suddenly open up a world of info on these Two stroke engines, but sadly my L197 type engine looks to be the rarest with little info available, but some good guidelines to read in between for set up etc .
 
Hope that helps anyone else who has one of these machines
 
Best regards
 
Nigel  

I use these people to obtain Friction Lining materials- if it helps you-   -LINK-
As for parts Manuals etc, if you look at Wristpin's post half way down PAGE 1 of this thread, you will see links to Dropbox files.
Regards

Pleased to have been of service! Your final problem and it's solution is interesting as, although I've not experienced it on s BS engine , I've seen it a few times on Tecumsehs; usually after they have been pressure washed during service. It would seem that electronic units can push enough down the kill wire to leak to ground if the conditions are right . In fact I've even experienced a " tingle " from a Tecumseh kill wire.
I hope that the rest of the job goes according to plan, but if not, there's plenty of Osprey related info available.

Good, Sounds like progress of a sort!
Cant remember the exact figure but Magnetron units need around 350 rpm to produce a spark  - considerably more than the old points and condenser set up , so you may not have lost the spark, just not pulling hard enough. If you have not already done so, remove the cutter belt until you have every thing working. On an Osprey there is a fair amount of inertia to overcome in the belt and cutter disc .
if the engine will only run on full or part choke you have a carburettor problem - not ignition ; time for a strip and clean.
 
Loosing your post - remember that we are into page three of a long thread!!!