Westie1

Again I screwed up. I referred to your tractor as a C-121 in my original post and then referred to my mistake as calling it the correct C-141 model in my apology. I can see how you could be confused, lol. A chap after my own heart. I like and respect how you feel.

Haha I'm confused but don't worry I'm sure no apologies necessary 😊
I hadn't noticed to be honest good spot!
 
Yeah I will be rebuilding the 14hp at some point but am very happy to have the 16hp for it. In a perfect world I would have a c161 or c160 but I refuse to sticker it up as c161 when the plate says c141.

It does yeah it came with the 14hp that's broke its rod and the 8 speed manual. Its getting a 16hp kohler when done and dusted

The C-121 was a newer (1978-1979) version of the C-120 (1975-1977), Wheel Horse and Toro often just used an addendums to the older parts and service manuals for newer models. There may be a C-121 Part/IPL manual out there on PartsTree, but it is probably just an updated microfiche file from Toro. You can use the C-120 parts and service manuals for the C-121 and consult the addendums for differences. The C-121 was made 2 years and in 8 speed and Hydrostatic drive models 1978 C-121 8 speed was model 81-12K801 Hydro was model 81-12KS01. The 1979 C-121 8 speed was model 91-12K801 and the Hydro was model 91-12KS01. There are 4 or 5 addendum's for the later model C-121 so for changes made  in newer models and others for Belgium made models. I have attached the addendums here and the service manual. The way to read model numbers form 1976 to 1980 Wheel Horse Tractors is the first number is the year, not sure what the second number means, the next two numbers are the horsepower, the letter stands for the engine brand, K= Kohler, B= Briggs, etc. The next  number was was 8 for a 8 speed, and 6 for a 6 six speed or S for a Sundstrand Hydro. Model  91-12K801 was a 1979 12 hp kohler powered 8 speed Model  81-12K801 was a 1978 12 hp kohler powered 8 speed and Model 81-12KS01 and 91-12KS01 were 1978 and 1979 hydrostatic units
Tractor 1975 C-100 C-120 C-160 8spd IPL #803983.pdf
Tractor 1979 C-121 8-Speed 91-12K801 TIPL.pdf
Tractor 1979 C-121 8-Speed 91-12K802 Details & Attachments (1).pdf
Tractor 1979 C-121 8-Speed 91-12K802 Details & Attachments.pdf
Tractor 1979 C-121 8-Speed 91-12K802 TIPL.pdf
Wheel_Horse_1978_b-c-d-series_service_manual.pdf

Wheel Horse, like most American things use AF or UNC threads. Some spanners etc do fit some AF and metric bolts.

Have you looked at the parts or service manuals?

Thanks armed with a video or 2 I feel comfortable taking it apart as it needs a proper going over and all the swarf removing. 
I was worried about the crank as they are hard to come by ECT but if repairable great.
I thought I would need to sell it as parts to recoup the tractors purchase price but as the deck alone has almost covered that! I will be putting this engine aside, restore the c141 as a c141 (fitted with a 16hp) then restore the 14hp at a later date and keep it with the tractor. Too few about to get shut for a few quid it seems.
Thanks for the clarity I just didn't want to be sat on scrap If it's beyond economical repair and only good as parts.

There is nothing in consideration of that engine's condition that is not repairable, or affect the engine in use when repaired. It can be fully rebuilt to a good running condition.
What will affect that reconditioning is how much you consider is worth spending, how comfortable you feel about doing most of the (dis/assembly) work and if you have the time, tools and facilities.
It's not uncommon for rods to fail, difficult to point to the cause(s), other than fatigue, poor maintenance or assembly.
That is a 'lucky' failure. I've seen holes punched through the crank case just above the starter high mount position, another with a large chunk of lower cylinder broken off (still running).
From the pics, I can't see any condition of the Crank that will not be remedied by inspection, measurement and a possible regrind to 0.010" under, with an appropriate replacement Con Rod.
Acceptable 'wear limit' (Kohler's) on the Crank journal is 0.0005" (five ten thousandths of an inch, or half-a-thou ). Which gives you an idea of the fine tolerances required for a long life engine.
Whatever you do, don't scrap it, someone will want to fix it up. 
 
 
 
 

Rods like pistons are sold in off sizes, over sized for pistons and undersized for rods. That way if you have to remove material off the crank you can still purchase a rod for it.

My C-125 have done stirling work since I got it about 7 years ago. Mowing the green and verges where I live and towing trailer loads of wood. The only things I have done to it, is to replace the head gasket a couple of years back, a stack exhaust and recently AG rear tyres. It does use some oil though. Having to top it up after a couple of hours running.
 
  This how she looked when purchased. There is a rear discharge deck that I had to rebuild in the first year of ownership. You can see it to the right of the workshop doors.
 

 
  For some time I've been saying I'll give it a good going over. Having acquired some engine parts of Richard (Anglo Traction), I thought I'd better make a start ready for next season. It won't be a show room job, so don't expect one. Bit pointless when it's a worker, but an engine rebuild and a tidy up. Plus anything else I find needs doing..
  So today the strip down began.
 

 

 

 
  Bonnet/hood removed. Wiring to the engine disconnected along with cables and seat plus fender.
 
 

We were sold this and told it was a 1958 rj-58 but then told it may be s 1961 model can any one help? I’m in the uk and looking for parts to restore 

perhaps you should be asking why the rod snapped? Usual cause is lube failure of the big end but the apparent condition of the crank pin doesn't support that. Next comes over-speeding.. Any sign of governor issues and are the balancer gears correctly timed? 

So I've just picked up this c141 and it has a deck with it which appears home made. It weighs a ton and looks very well built. 
Thought it may be of interest to see before it goes on eBay after a wire brushing.

I had to put a new top on my rear discharge deck some years back. Contemplating making a new shell for the side discharge I have.

Just had a look at this 14hp k321 and looks like the rod had snapped and damaged the crank. The bearing plate it spinning but im not sure if its from damage or being removed. Everything else inside looks ok to my very untrained eye.

Very solid looking bit of kit

So I've just picked up this c141 and it has a deck with it which appears home made. It weighs a ton and looks very well built. 
Thought it may be of interest to see before it goes on eBay after a wire brushing.

So I've just picked up this c141 and it has a deck with it which appears home made. It weighs a ton and looks very well built. 
Thought it may be of interest to see before it goes on eBay after a wire brushing.

So I've just picked up this c141 and it has a deck with it which appears home made. It weighs a ton and looks very well built. 
Thought it may be of interest to see before it goes on eBay after a wire brushing.

Yes the original square hoods had a plastic bracket in the inside of the hood, then par36 lamps fastened into this. We removed the plastic and used the one bolt (note the plastic is fastened to the bonnet with a single central bolt) to secure a metal bracket that we had made to hold the LED lamps, square or round, makes little difference. 

Par36 the ones your thinking of mate? Just seen a post on red square and I believe they will fit! I think I only have one of the brackets though unfortunately 

Cub cadet I didn't realise they were sealed round units in assuming there are holding clips/lugs on the back of the bonnet. That changes things a bit 

Sorry I forgot to put the asking price on, I am looking for £450...… a lot of work went into this....

You did the right thing, keep looking. The rotavator looks a bit butchered and from what i can see the tines look very worn. I picked one up the other year for £150 although the idler and rear bracket wasn't included.
 
The plow doesn't look like any of the wheel horse ones, it looks like they have used the rear hitch bracket as a plow bracket.

Hi, I fancy a snow plough and rotavator for my c165 and these have popped up.
 
Problem is the plough is odd (what's it off?) And a bit rough.
 
The rotavator is missing the belt and pulleys, the idler pullet from the unit its self and the pulley is very small. 
 
What other bits are needed? I have the axle bracket.
Thanks I'm thinking this is just too much effort as it's not exactly cheap either.