CNew

Funny, that’s exactly what I wanted to use but I only have one spare and want to save it for a tool at some point. I haven’t had any luck finding filters this small except the sintered bronze type Like the Dubro brand used for RC applications.

That’s what I thought too, looks like the ones for the Comet tools. I didn’t get this one off ePay...

Next up is my Type 110. The internals on some of these earlier models are so different from the later engines.

Were you able to get it running?

New test stand ready to go...

Now that I have the “J” engine mounted on display, I decided to make another stand for engine testing. Just finished up drilling and tapping the holes as well as the grinding and sanding. I’m going to use the nice spongy wide footprint vibration damping feet on this one. Hopefully I can paint it this week.

Thought I would test out an idea on this gas tank repair on the cheap since I’ve got it opened up. When I heated the bottom to loosen the epoxy seal the heat deformed the plastic cone that holds the fuel filter screen on the end of the pickup tube. I basically modified a 1/8 x 1/8 compression fitting. I drilled out the center so it could slide on the pickup tube all the way through to make it adjustable and easier to set it at the right position just above the bottom of the tank base plate. I then punched out a 1/4” piece of fuel screen and secured it all in place.

Looking good, yeah that battery acid is bad stuff!

Finally got the “J” mounted for display. I’ve got it bookending my workbench on one side and the cut-away engine on the other.

All back together now...

Welcome to the forum! That’s a great outboard you have there. There are two size balls used for those carbs, 1/16 and 3/32 so not sure which one you have. Do you have a photo of the inside where the ball seats? The little rod that the spring legs ride on is not easy to find but I’ve had success just cutting one from small piece of rod or something, even used a heavy duty paper clip once. Or, you can go a more precise route and get the correct diameter rod at a hobby store. K&S makes a bunch of small rod, brass tubing, etc. and a lot of good ACE hardware stores even carry it. I believe the little roller rod is 0.063-0.065” in diameter. Also, be sure to click the Ohlsson Rice home page as there is a really good carburetor rebuild tutorial if you get stuck.

Excellent, thanks! Funny - I was almost going to leave my cover off because it looks so aged and worn compared to the engine. Almost doesn’t look like it was the original to the saw.

Does anyone have a good photo for how the stop switch is supposed to be wired to the engine? I’m assuming one wire attaches to the post where the condenser and coil Wires attach. Does the other wire just attach to the closest recoil cover screw?

The test stand worked great to try out the TT engine before reassembly.

The Koyo bearings finally showed up today. Started getting the saw back together. Bearings fit great. Learning the hard way on this one, this tool has a special sequence to reassembly and if you forget anything like I did it’s next to impossible to get things in place once out of order. I’ve had to re-do several things.... time to step away until tomorrow

That’s what I figured. I messed with it a little last night and was hopeful that with some gentle heat I might be able to reshape it to sit flat but that didn’t really work out. I’ll see if I can make this other one work once I get all the rust cleaned off. This particular unit uses a #1. I’ll keep you posted if I hit a dead end with this spare.

I cleaned it up really well but those plastic reeds are not going to sit flat. Will it still work with the reeds partially distorted or should I use one from a parts engine? I have another one from a rusted engine that I think I can clean up but the bearings were pretty corroded. The shaft looks identical but the bearing style is slightly different.

Finally got it free and now have the rest of the engine fully apart. This thing has had a long hard life. I think the induction vane unit is shot, looks like the little plastic arms have deformed (probably due to the 120 summers here in AZ) and don’t seal anymore. Hopefully I have one in the used spares that will work. Will this one work or is it too bad to put back in? Ended up having to open up this gas tank too, it is full of nasty crud. After heating It with a torch to get the bottom off it basically melts the rubber boot with brass filter screen that’s on the end of the fuel pickup tube. What do you all generally do for making a new filter screen? I was going to just use some 100 micron brass mesh to make a little boot to slide over the end of the tube unless anyone has a better idea.

Not exactly what I thought I would be working on next but I picked this up yesterday from a guy out in the desert. It has such a great sweaty patina and I’m going to try to preserve it as much as possible. I plan to go through it and hopefully get all the internals fixed up and in good working condition but only do minimal cleaning to the rest of the unit. Something about this one just has a great look to me the way the age and color have changed over time. I started dismantling in and ran into my first problem. I can’t seem to free the generator rotor shaft from the crankshaft. I’ve tried the usual things like smacking the mounting bolt, etc. but nothing is working. Does anyone else have any ideas? At first I thought I was going to get lucky with the wiring because it looked intact but after closer inspection several wires are cracked entirely in half and I can see the expected corrosion. So I’ll have to re-do that too. I’m going to have to find another bearing as well

Yes, the 6/67DAAK01-67-C-1182 (they had a typo) looked familiar to me so I jumped on it. I figured even if wasn’t the Type 133 like I was hoping, that any NOS O&R engine was worth $28.

Welcome to the forum Mike! Nice looking pump! I’m missing one of the little pumps as well for a different pump I have. I haven’t been able to locate anything like it yet. I’ve been tempted to try to find a used transfer pump kind of like this just to see if maybe it would fit. There are several off-brands of these small pumps so I’m sure one can be found on the cheap. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200352045_200352045

That’s interesting, didn’t know that...

I’m tempted to display this engine instead of keeping it all boxed up. I’ll keep the box behind it as part of the package. I was able to locate a nice air cleaner in my stash as well as a tank bracket and I cut a thick paper gasket for the tank bracket using an old one as a pattern. I’ll need to make another display stand or just use the one I recently put together as an engine test stand.

Yeah, I’ve come across the metric bearings more than once on various things.The Champion uY6 is M10x1.0 as well.

I’ll try to get a better photo of the label thing. It doesn’t look like a label and it is rough almost like the fuzzy side of Velcro.