CNew

Very, nice - great job with the paint and getting it running! Thanks for posting the video, it’s always fun to see.

I hope someone on this forum was able to get the Meier Line chainsaw that just sold on eBay recently. I just came across this video of a couple Meier saws for fun. These guys definitely got the lucky find... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kits7jXelPQ

I’ve used this too for the metal discs, seems to do the job.

I almost always use the SUllivan 187 filters on these engines - they’re great. Just thought for this tank I would add an in-tank filter as well. i have a couple round tanks where someone destroyed the filter screen as well...

That’s interesting. It has a 13B exhaust collector and muffler like some of the Orline chainsaws but looks to have a 13A recoil cover. Neat piece to have in your collection.

Finished the tank yesterday and sealed it up with Hondabond. Gave it a quick test this afternoon with some gas and didn’t see any leaks. Time will tell I guess...

Glad yours came out so easy, none of mine have ever been like that. Not many gasket seal materials are good for fuel. The Yamabond and Hondabond have been recommended for this. I just sealed up a tank with Hondabond and in a quick test it seemed to hold fuel and no leaks.

If you don’t want to take the tank apart you might be able to use a gas tank sealer just on the bottom around the seams (inside the tank). I’ve thought about using something like POR-15 but opted to take the tank apart instead.You have to heat it with a torch to free up the old epoxy seal and it will likely ruin the filter intake. Take a look at my thread on the gas tank repair. I plan to seal if back up with Hondabond (same as Yamabond).

I just finished swapping out the points. That seemed to do the trick. I think the points that were in there weren’t really making a connection, they seemed to be worn at odd angles or someone sanded them poorly. Just ran a carb worth of gas, sounded great. I may rig up a small tank tomorrow so I can try to run it a little longer.

Well, that’s always frustrating. Got this engine completely rebuilt and put back together only to have zero spark. I tried another condenser for giggles and that didn’t help. Tried a new spark plug and that didn’t work. It must be either the coil or the points. I got the points all cleaned up nice and set properly. The coil didn’t look in bad shape from the outside. Any ideas? If I use a volt meter on the coil can I pinpoint something from there? Electrical isn’t my strong suit but I put my meter on it and here are some of the numbers: 2.67 k Ohms 0.07 Ohm

I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of those governor arms by itself as a spare part, although I’m sure they were sold that way at one point in time. Or, you could maybe consider a setup kind of like this. I have an engine that has a small throttle linkage in place of the arm, probably from some sort of R/C application. You could do this and add a cable or arm to control the throttle.

It also has the two notches cut into the mounting holes like on the circular saw. The carb also doesn’t have a hole for the hook screw for an air filter so that also seems like a circular saw set up.

David, I’ve been contemplating that as well. Have you looked at X-ring style O-rings? I bought a few sizes that look like they should work. Looks like they would provide more sealing surface for rotary applications.

Funny, that’s exactly what I wanted to use but I only have one spare and want to save it for a tool at some point. I haven’t had any luck finding filters this small except the sintered bronze type Like the Dubro brand used for RC applications.

That’s what I thought too, looks like the ones for the Comet tools. I didn’t get this one off ePay...

Next up is my Type 110. The internals on some of these earlier models are so different from the later engines.

Were you able to get it running?

New test stand ready to go...

Now that I have the “J” engine mounted on display, I decided to make another stand for engine testing. Just finished up drilling and tapping the holes as well as the grinding and sanding. I’m going to use the nice spongy wide footprint vibration damping feet on this one. Hopefully I can paint it this week.

Thought I would test out an idea on this gas tank repair on the cheap since I’ve got it opened up. When I heated the bottom to loosen the epoxy seal the heat deformed the plastic cone that holds the fuel filter screen on the end of the pickup tube. I basically modified a 1/8 x 1/8 compression fitting. I drilled out the center so it could slide on the pickup tube all the way through to make it adjustable and easier to set it at the right position just above the bottom of the tank base plate. I then punched out a 1/4” piece of fuel screen and secured it all in place.

Looking good, yeah that battery acid is bad stuff!

Finally got the “J” mounted for display. I’ve got it bookending my workbench on one side and the cut-away engine on the other.

All back together now...

Welcome to the forum! That’s a great outboard you have there. There are two size balls used for those carbs, 1/16 and 3/32 so not sure which one you have. Do you have a photo of the inside where the ball seats? The little rod that the spring legs ride on is not easy to find but I’ve had success just cutting one from small piece of rod or something, even used a heavy duty paper clip once. Or, you can go a more precise route and get the correct diameter rod at a hobby store. K&S makes a bunch of small rod, brass tubing, etc. and a lot of good ACE hardware stores even carry it. I believe the little roller rod is 0.063-0.065” in diameter. Also, be sure to click the Ohlsson Rice home page as there is a really good carburetor rebuild tutorial if you get stuck.

Excellent, thanks! Funny - I was almost going to leave my cover off because it looks so aged and worn compared to the engine. Almost doesn’t look like it was the original to the saw.