CNew

So I’ve opened up a couple engines recently and have noticed that sometimes the roller bearing for the induction is in backwards, at least based on the guidance in the repair manual. Which way is actually correct? The manual states to always have the outer cage facing out from the race to “capture the rollers”. I’ve seen several now with the bearing cage riding against the inner race. The first photo is an example of how I’ve seen a couple recent engines (including one I just opened up yesterday) vs the second photo based on the manual.

Got the stop switch wired up and got it running. It sounds good and I didn’t lose a finger- thanks JustO&R!

Good call, it was the right thing to do - thanks for the extra nudge to get it done... Working on a Life-Savr now. Just got a TAS J-12 running too.

Happy now?

I certainly can but then I’d have to open it all back up again and I’m feeling lazy on this one at this point JustO&R, Great guess- I counted 34 tools Ha- make that 36. I forgot about the 20A chainsaw and 20A Clinton K-150 outboard...

Looking for O&R Polaris Power Pole attachments- outboard, cultivator, etc.

Good question, I’ll have to do a count. It’s funny you mention that. I was wondering about that when I was reassembling it. Do you think the blades will still work ok flipped around or will it get jammed up somehow? JustO&R, That’s a nice looking Orline trimmer. I like that it has the throttle on the handle. That one should clean up real nice!

Rennie’s trimmer project inspired me to work on my Paramount trimmer. It’s a bit of a Frankenstein but nice to finally have it complete. The piston was frozen and had a broken connecting rod. I was able to salvage a piston and rod from a parts engine. I found a reasonably good cylinder head from another parts engine along with cooling baffles. I was able to fix up a recoil cover from misc other bits. Got the gas tank repaired and cleaned up inside. The only thing left to do now is wire up the stop switch (I’m waiting for some wire I ordered to arrive) that goes on the handle. Then I’ll have to give it a test run. It’s got really strong compression now so hopefully all the salvaged parts work together correctly.

Wow, that’s cool to have those FMC engines. Good thought on the pulse tube For the card idea. It is definitely odd. When I opened up the port it looks like an oil fill but like you said it’s a two stroke so that doesn’t make much sense. That section of the engine also has the ignition coil and no telling what else inside so it doesn’t seem like a good place to have oil sloshing around. I got it all ready for a test run. I might try the 32:1 gas mix. Hopefully I can get it to fire.

David, There looks to be a small oil fill hole near the base of the engine right below the carburetor. Does your engine have something similar? Seems a little odd to have an oil hole but I guess there is some internal gearing that depend on a little splash lubrications. I can’t think of any other reason this little fill hole is here. Another question- there is a wire going inside the engine right next to the spark plug cable- I’m assuming this is for a kill switch?

Indeed, that has to be a TAS motor made/sold through FMC. It looks like a J-12 or J-15

Looking for parts for a TAS J-12.

Very, nice - great job with the paint and getting it running! Thanks for posting the video, it’s always fun to see.

I hope someone on this forum was able to get the Meier Line chainsaw that just sold on eBay recently. I just came across this video of a couple Meier saws for fun. These guys definitely got the lucky find... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kits7jXelPQ

I’ve used this too for the metal discs, seems to do the job.

I almost always use the SUllivan 187 filters on these engines - they’re great. Just thought for this tank I would add an in-tank filter as well. i have a couple round tanks where someone destroyed the filter screen as well...

That’s interesting. It has a 13B exhaust collector and muffler like some of the Orline chainsaws but looks to have a 13A recoil cover. Neat piece to have in your collection.

Finished the tank yesterday and sealed it up with Hondabond. Gave it a quick test this afternoon with some gas and didn’t see any leaks. Time will tell I guess...

Glad yours came out so easy, none of mine have ever been like that. Not many gasket seal materials are good for fuel. The Yamabond and Hondabond have been recommended for this. I just sealed up a tank with Hondabond and in a quick test it seemed to hold fuel and no leaks.

If you don’t want to take the tank apart you might be able to use a gas tank sealer just on the bottom around the seams (inside the tank). I’ve thought about using something like POR-15 but opted to take the tank apart instead.You have to heat it with a torch to free up the old epoxy seal and it will likely ruin the filter intake. Take a look at my thread on the gas tank repair. I plan to seal if back up with Hondabond (same as Yamabond).

I just finished swapping out the points. That seemed to do the trick. I think the points that were in there weren’t really making a connection, they seemed to be worn at odd angles or someone sanded them poorly. Just ran a carb worth of gas, sounded great. I may rig up a small tank tomorrow so I can try to run it a little longer.

Well, that’s always frustrating. Got this engine completely rebuilt and put back together only to have zero spark. I tried another condenser for giggles and that didn’t help. Tried a new spark plug and that didn’t work. It must be either the coil or the points. I got the points all cleaned up nice and set properly. The coil didn’t look in bad shape from the outside. Any ideas? If I use a volt meter on the coil can I pinpoint something from there? Electrical isn’t my strong suit but I put my meter on it and here are some of the numbers: 2.67 k Ohms 0.07 Ohm

I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of those governor arms by itself as a spare part, although I’m sure they were sold that way at one point in time. Or, you could maybe consider a setup kind of like this. I have an engine that has a small throttle linkage in place of the arm, probably from some sort of R/C application. You could do this and add a cable or arm to control the throttle.

It also has the two notches cut into the mounting holes like on the circular saw. The carb also doesn’t have a hole for the hook screw for an air filter so that also seems like a circular saw set up.

David, I’ve been contemplating that as well. Have you looked at X-ring style O-rings? I bought a few sizes that look like they should work. Looks like they would provide more sealing surface for rotary applications.