CNew

Does anyone have a good photo for how the stop switch is supposed to be wired to the engine? I’m assuming one wire attaches to the post where the condenser and coil Wires attach. Does the other wire just attach to the closest recoil cover screw?

The test stand worked great to try out the TT engine before reassembly.

The Koyo bearings finally showed up today. Started getting the saw back together. Bearings fit great. Learning the hard way on this one, this tool has a special sequence to reassembly and if you forget anything like I did it’s next to impossible to get things in place once out of order. I’ve had to re-do several things.... time to step away until tomorrow

That’s what I figured. I messed with it a little last night and was hopeful that with some gentle heat I might be able to reshape it to sit flat but that didn’t really work out. I’ll see if I can make this other one work once I get all the rust cleaned off. This particular unit uses a #1. I’ll keep you posted if I hit a dead end with this spare.

I cleaned it up really well but those plastic reeds are not going to sit flat. Will it still work with the reeds partially distorted or should I use one from a parts engine? I have another one from a rusted engine that I think I can clean up but the bearings were pretty corroded. The shaft looks identical but the bearing style is slightly different.

Finally got it free and now have the rest of the engine fully apart. This thing has had a long hard life. I think the induction vane unit is shot, looks like the little plastic arms have deformed (probably due to the 120 summers here in AZ) and don’t seal anymore. Hopefully I have one in the used spares that will work. Will this one work or is it too bad to put back in? Ended up having to open up this gas tank too, it is full of nasty crud. After heating It with a torch to get the bottom off it basically melts the rubber boot with brass filter screen that’s on the end of the fuel pickup tube. What do you all generally do for making a new filter screen? I was going to just use some 100 micron brass mesh to make a little boot to slide over the end of the tube unless anyone has a better idea.

Not exactly what I thought I would be working on next but I picked this up yesterday from a guy out in the desert. It has such a great sweaty patina and I’m going to try to preserve it as much as possible. I plan to go through it and hopefully get all the internals fixed up and in good working condition but only do minimal cleaning to the rest of the unit. Something about this one just has a great look to me the way the age and color have changed over time. I started dismantling in and ran into my first problem. I can’t seem to free the generator rotor shaft from the crankshaft. I’ve tried the usual things like smacking the mounting bolt, etc. but nothing is working. Does anyone else have any ideas? At first I thought I was going to get lucky with the wiring because it looked intact but after closer inspection several wires are cracked entirely in half and I can see the expected corrosion. So I’ll have to re-do that too. I’m going to have to find another bearing as well

Yes, the 6/67DAAK01-67-C-1182 (they had a typo) looked familiar to me so I jumped on it. I figured even if wasn’t the Type 133 like I was hoping, that any NOS O&R engine was worth $28.

Welcome to the forum Mike! Nice looking pump! I’m missing one of the little pumps as well for a different pump I have. I haven’t been able to locate anything like it yet. I’ve been tempted to try to find a used transfer pump kind of like this just to see if maybe it would fit. There are several off-brands of these small pumps so I’m sure one can be found on the cheap. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200352045_200352045

That’s interesting, didn’t know that...

I’m tempted to display this engine instead of keeping it all boxed up. I’ll keep the box behind it as part of the package. I was able to locate a nice air cleaner in my stash as well as a tank bracket and I cut a thick paper gasket for the tank bracket using an old one as a pattern. I’ll need to make another display stand or just use the one I recently put together as an engine test stand.

Yeah, I’ve come across the metric bearings more than once on various things.The Champion uY6 is M10x1.0 as well.

I’ll try to get a better photo of the label thing. It doesn’t look like a label and it is rough almost like the fuzzy side of Velcro.

JustO&R, do you remember what brand and part number bearings you ended up using? I took some measurements and it looks like these should be fairly standard 28mm x 12mm x 8mm double shielded radial bearings. Think I’m going to look for some Koyo bearings in this size like the 6001ZZ/C3.

NOS bearings arrived this afternoon. I was hoping to finish putting the saw back together this weekend but these bearings aren’t the same. It’s odd because they’re the exact same part number. The new bearings are a lot wider than the originals. Rats... Just for reference these are GMN 6001 bearings made in Germany.

You mean this one, it was just delivered about 30 minutes ago Unfortunately it did not come with a tank mounting bracket or air cleaner. Otherwise it is fresh NOS. Also found the warranty card and operation pages hidden away in the box. The engine itself was wrapped in the comics section of the newspaper dated Dec 1959.

While not unusual or anything I was happy to land a NOS military engine with the original box and packaging for the tank and air cleaner. This engine is pretty much pristine and never been used. Best part was I got it at good price.

Not yet. It might also be the coil. It had a lot of cracks in the wires and I had to fix some bad splice jobs so it might be part of the problem too.

Got the engine all rebuilt. I replaced all the seals and gaskets, including new exhaust gaskets. I also got all the wires on the coil fixed up. The spark is a little weak but at least it has spark! I was also able to locate some NOS bearings on eBay so I’ll just have to wait until they arrive to finish assembling the saw.

Just an example of the make-shift gaskets I’m running into...

No set screw on mine. Turns out it just had multiple cir-clip retainers. I was able to get the shaft and pulley removed along with the two bearings. Now the fun begins, trying to find new bearings...

pmackello, Is that a Cub Cadet 70/100 in the background?

Hmmm, I’ll have to take another look for a set screw in that area. There was an adjustment screw on the side of the engine mount tab that looked to help adjust the belt tension or something but I didn’t see anything around the bearing/shaft area. I’ll take another look later this afteenoon.

I’ve been wanting to dig into this one for awhile. Finally got it 97% disassembled. The main bearing on the blade pulley is a little raw. Would be best to replace it or at least get at it to put some bearing grease in there. I’m not sure how the roller spindle comes apart. There looks to be a clip holding the back of the shaft but it also seems like it may have some sort of taper fit like a crank shaft. Has anyone had one of these off before, any photos or tips? Someone has been inside this machine a few times. There were all sorts of make-shift gaskets and seals, horrible job. Worst part about the whole thing is the spark plug threads in the head are completely stripped out. I mean, how hard is it to thread in a spark plug? If you can’t do that then you should definitely NOT be operating a gas powered circular saw! The coil is also going to need some TLC, wires are all cracked and split. There was also a pretty terrible splice job on the power button.

Very nice! I like the bare aluminum too. The green handle makes a nice accent along with the wooden rollers and red engine!