Lauren1985

Can't give you the belt size, but the part number from the manual is 2348. An online search for hayter 21 part number 2348 throws up several outlets to obtain one. Here's an example-
HAYTER 21 2348

If you can find the appropriate BS manual* it shows how to reseat that jet, but the weapon of choice is a Briggs dip stick tube. The slightly chamfered end that pushes into the plastic seal in the sump of its intended use, pushes against the steel “ bellville” washer of the jet assembly and seats it into the carb. 
* Single cylinder L head post 1981. Page 23.  Publication 270962-12/03

 
 

Perhaps we need a sub page :-) for Old Hayter machinery :-)

Old Thread But Highly Relevent. !!! Just acquired a Hayter 21 Serial 016
5 Hp Briggs 132922 1989 engine
needed a new clutch (reason it was dumped in the hedge)
 
It runs great
 
Lauren

Cleaned up rust area and found another number
Model No 94908
Type 015501
Code 80100708
Machine No 224853
See attached photos

HI Ray hope all's well, I don't know how I missed this topic of yours . Good job there with the panelwork. I expect it will work as good as it looks 

Its really up to you.  I have a friend who is an expert mechanic and, if the machine is working, he favours only an oily rag. I do not like to see rusty or oily elements so decide to remove/treat the rust etc. and paint them. However once I remove certain parts I find others that would benefit from the same treatment and invariably end up totally dismantling the machine and repainting it. I find that if I only repaint the 'tinwork' the remainder looks even worse and gives the overall impression of being half a job. I am not endeavouring to reach 'show standard' but just to ensure that I remove or stabilise any corrosion and paint so that I should not have to revisit it.

Old Thread But Highly Relevent. !!! Just acquired a Hayter 21 Serial 016
5 Hp Briggs 132922 1989 engine
needed a new clutch (reason it was dumped in the hedge)
 
It runs great
 
Lauren

if no kill wire it should run but you wont be able to stop unless you unplug the wire from the plug. i suspect the coil there is a test in ohms you can do. i cant remember the measurement.hopefully someone else will help 

Hi Lauren, That is the 5min version. The deception is that they use the word original.
The one you want is the 'Standard' version. Gives you 80mins+ working time, but requires longer curing time setting-

 

 
I've used this brand for over 50 years and in hostile environments in excess temps of 65c and has held fast. There are other brands out there, but have never had a need to try them.
Providing the parts are meticulously clean, dry, sound and abraded for good keyed surfaces, it will do the job.
Regards

Well saved there!. Glad to see ths Topic is still useful.

Old Thread But Highly Relevent. !!! Just acquired a Hayter 21 Serial 016
5 Hp Briggs 132922 1989 engine
needed a new clutch (reason it was dumped in the hedge)
 
It runs great
 
Lauren

That's an impressive cut!!!

Old Thread But Highly Relevent. !!! Just acquired a Hayter 21 Serial 016
5 Hp Briggs 132922 1989 engine
needed a new clutch (reason it was dumped in the hedge)
 
It runs great
 
Lauren