jparkes43

Well... Everything I need to finish off the bodywork has arrived, filler, primer, topcoat etc but I found a slight problem!
 
As I started to clean up the fender pan I kept finding more and more stress cracks! I'm not surprised as WN has had a huge amount of being thrashing about and the arch bits of the fender pan were not as strong as they could of been..
 
The hard part was coming up with a way of adding strength that didn't change the look of the fender pan... Until...
 
A few welding burn marks!
 

 
 
I need to tidy up a few welds but you won't see the strengthening frame unless you on your hands and knees looking under the arch..   Oh, and it's added a huge amount of strength that should stop things from flexing
 


 

Collected a '75 Raider 10 today with side discharge cutting deck. Engine supposedly OK, but gears cannot be selected. The idea is to eventually restore it, or make something special. The engine will go into the C-125 while the 12hp off that is rebuilt.
 Below photo's of as collected.
 

 
Not to bad I suppose, seeing as it's been stood outside for a number of years.
 
The deck has not fared as well. But I think it can be rescued eventually.
 

 
  First thing was to blow the tyres up to make it easier to push about. Next a good pressure wash. Strangely there's red paint under that blue. Then it was up onto the work bench.
  Just to see what would happen, I connected a battery. Turned the key and the engine spun easily. I did check the oil first. Cleaned and checked plug and points and got a nice healthy spark.
  Here is when I found throttle and choke cables/controls, very, very stiff. Never mind, choke fully open, throttle halfway, squirt petrol into the carb, turn key and......
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
It fired up and ran for a second or two.  
 
While I set too on the controls, I left the old petrol in the tank to drain. Have no idea how old it is, but I've never seen golden brown petrol before. Well, not out of a plastic tank.
 That's it for now.

Happy Birthday Rob, Noel and James, have a great day

Prefer the originals.

I use Dropbox now. Photo Bucket got to be a pain.

Use your mouse or arrow buttons to see 360 degrees around the P-51 Mustang and see the F-22 Raptor off its wing tip

Working up at my mom"s in Wichita I happened upon an orphaned tractor, owner had passed. No implements but it runs great and was at the low price of 200.00

He is going to buy new tires for it next, paid 2100 for it, great machine.

Glad to took my advise & fitted a honda ish
 
I got one fitted on my merry tiller & it works well
 
Getting any parts maybe interesting when it breaks down

Really nice job, I wonder if it would be possible to use a more period air breather and exhaust?

Hello. Yes i am here!! i have been away for a while and some of you may know my ranger progress was stumped by that tecky engine i had so i tried and tried for ages with different options and in the end i decided for a different engine, so i got myself a copy Honda GX200 to squeeze into the ranger and i have to say its amazing, i have completed mock up and i am very happy with my setup i am just now going to take it apart and re paint it and then put it together again but this time its happening, took it on a few drives and it actually rides quite nicely and that engine has plenty of power and overall its nice to drive. i have also recently doing lots of adjustment on the tractor to get it driving just right so i don't have any more troubles when it goes back together. i am going to make the original fuel tank fit onto the engine with some mounts, but for now the Honda one is staying. there are a few littler bits i still need to do aswell. but this is the new restoration topic area as i cant find my old one.

glad to see you all again. And its good to be back working on the tractor
 
james
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Hello. Yes i am here!! i have been away for a while and some of you may know my ranger progress was stumped by that tecky engine i had so i tried and tried for ages with different options and in the end i decided for a different engine, so i got myself a copy Honda GX200 to squeeze into the ranger and i have to say its amazing, i have completed mock up and i am very happy with my setup i am just now going to take it apart and re paint it and then put it together again but this time its happening, took it on a few drives and it actually rides quite nicely and that engine has plenty of power and overall its nice to drive. i have also recently doing lots of adjustment on the tractor to get it driving just right so i don't have any more troubles when it goes back together. i am going to make the original fuel tank fit onto the engine with some mounts, but for now the Honda one is staying. there are a few littler bits i still need to do aswell. but this is the new restoration topic area as i cant find my old one.

glad to see you all again. And its good to be back working on the tractor
 
james
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Thanks Alan, no need for parachute... I have an anchor and a long length of bungee rope
 
 
 
 
Thanks James.
 
A Why Not status update...
 
The good news I've fitted a rev counter and worked out how to wire in the temp gauge.
 
The bad news is... The brakes are rubbish.
The steering is a bit heavy, does not self center, does not have enough lock and is not enough turns from lock to lock..
The throttle pedal is at a painful angle for my ankles, as is the brake pedal.
The throttle pedal needs better return springs..
When braking it's hard not to hit the throttle at the same time!
 
So she needs a few tweaks..
 
The rear brakes will be sorted by fitting new shoes (I've ordered the right ones this time) and new adjusters both of which have been ordered..
The front brakes will be sorted by moving the master cylinder up a bit.
Sorting the throttle pedal problems just involves a little cutting and welding.
 
The steering problems will be a bit more interesting to solve..
The gearing in the 90 degree angle drive box thingy isn't quite 1:1 but it's close, this means the steering wheel does not turn much lock to lock..
I did think about a Land Rover steering box which is small enough to fit in the available space... Until I saw the price of them!!
 
So I have bought a small steering rack advertised as being for micro cars/kit cars...   It only measures 39 inches end to end, as WN is 44 inches wide it should fit in with only minor tweaks..

Absolutely amazing, from the idea in the first place to the working thing is amazing, better than a zero-ish turn in my mind  . Then maybe a why not mk2 
 
james

How can you possibly go back to driving 5-1/2mph horses after this Ian? you'll be well spoilt now :D
truly amazing and AWESOME!!!!!!! :thumbs:
 
Nitrous next ?

It's the maniacal laugh that dos it for me...
More power egor!
I think that's gotta be the basis for some decals, even his name.
I christen him egor... That or frankenhorse

How's this Koen
 

 

 

 

But they're all 4x4 Mark. Didn't know they were your thing.

Great minds think alike

A couple of points for you to consider James now your tackling this by going deeper into the engine.
 
Aluminium Bore Engines are prone to bad maintenance, i.e. lack of regular Oil changes is the major failing.
Your Engine may only need a new set of Rings, depends on the amount of wear and the condition like scoring.
 
There is no facility to use a 'Screw In' Bolt and Puller on this Flywheel.
There is a set procedure to do this, and again, it is covered in detail in the Service Manual. It also needs to be done with care to avoid damage.
Flywheel key condition is also important on this model.  Basically, it involves 2 pieces of Tapered Wood tapped in between the Crankcase and the Flywheel to pull it out towards the Nut and the End of the Crank/nut is sharply hit with a Wooden Mallet or a metal Hammer with a thick rag between it and the nut.
The Flywheel will free from the taper and the nut prevents it from dropping on the floor and shattering (or your foot).     
 
Most of the Carbon there will scrape off with just a sharpened wooden Lolly Stick, or a piece of soft copper,
as it is saturated with Oil (that's why your Piston is so clean on top).
I always prefer to use a scraper that is of softer material than the parent metal.
 
If you remove the Valves, you must check and note orientation of the Springs carefully and they need to be refitted the right way up if they are of the 'Damper Style', which is highly likely.
The Manual will show you all this. I clean the Valves with a Small wire brush in a Drill. Careful with the Stem length that runs in the Guides.
I assume you just want to clean, regrind/lap and refit these?.  
 
Getting the Valve Clearances correct may involve careful grinding and finishing the ends of Stems where they contact the Valve Lifters (Cam Followers).
 
Cleanliness is paramount.
 
Also, don't throw the original Carb away. I will have it and return it to new condition as a spare.
     
 
   
    
 

Regarding the flywheel, on a Kohler engine I use wedge a chock of wood in between the engine block and the flywheel so there is constant pressure on the flywheel and usually a combination of hitting the flywheel and the flywheel nut it will come loose. Plenty of penetrating oil and you want lots of shock but not too much so you damage things..
Tom

It's traditional to have a run around on a Friday or Saturday night, this time was no different.

Then after a few beers this happened

Well that's a bonus then James, try one, if still no joy, try the other let us know how you get on.

Late here, but we couldn't get Finns v70 to run. A new carb cured all issues!
If a carb is worn, then it's never going to run properly