I have a G.H. Grimm tree tapper. It is nothing more than a backpack frame and a Power Products AH-36 engine with a Jacobs chuck on the crankshaft. I gather that this was a two person operation and the guy wearing the backpack was directed backwards to drill the trees by his partner. At 1.5hp it sounds sufficient in power.
Is it anything like the backpack tapping machines shown on page 12 of the 1961 catalog archived by Dominion & Grimm here?:
Also a similar machine which was invented & patented by R.L. Soule and E.I. Soule, known as the King portable power tree tapper, see about 2/3rds of the way down the page here;
It's the same design as the Tiny Tiger, POWR MITE is a re-brand, they have also removed the raised Tiny Tiger lettering from the alternator end housing.
Type 111 is the engine model and is commonly found on older Tiny Tigers, the other number is the engine serial number.
I can't see the base plate in your pictures, which is maybe why it looks different to other Tiny Tigers, here is one I made (on the right) out of a stainless steel offcut, the original is aluminium.
Be sure to check out the carb rebuild 'sticky' thread if you haven't already seen it. I've got various rods/shafts salvaged from broken cassette players & other scrap electronic items, they can be cut to size with a Dremel (or similar tool) to fit the carb.
Can you confirm if the missing 'cup' from the starter is actually the crankshaft thrust disc (#148-3) that goes in loose with the felt oil washer. These parts are not actually mentioned on any of the early 1960's parts lists, maybe they weren't used before 1964? I need to check this.
Part #131-1 is the bearing for the starter reel and I can't see why it would be missing unless someone had removed out the rivet (which shouldn't need to be removed do to rebuild the starter mechanism), please confirm.
The grommet is a standard part that you should be able to find easily, commonly used on electrical/electronic panels to protect wiring/cables that pass through.
The engine is possibly a Type 100, there is some overlap with serial numbers & 3/4HP/0.85HP engines at time this was made, but the lack of fins on the crankcase suggests that it is most likely to be a 3/4HP one. My information also suggests it should have a plastic reed valve.
Those parts don't look too difficult to replicate, it might need a bit of experimentation to find out the length of the rods required for the two different sized boards that @Mekash has.
Here is another part I have made for the Aquabug, the carbs don't have the usual air filter, instead they have a gauze filter held with a plastic retainer.
Neither of my two Aquabug's had the gauze so I cut a piece to size, I made a retainer from a shortened plastic end cap with a hole cut in the end.
Instructions!!! very little seems to come with those these days, usually only get a few pages of elf & safety information, how to recycle/dispose of it, sign up here for extended guarantee (no thanks) and nothing on how to actually use it.
Sugar bush seems to be the name given to farms with a lot of maple trees producing maple syrup, sugar bush farms may have anywhere from a few hundred to many thousands of maple trees, which may explain the larger than normal gas tank.
I've not found anything on this drill yet but have found several power tapping products made by other companies in the 1960's, including a larger 2¾HP engine powered version and a battery powered electric version.
So they are all slightly different, never knew they were made in different sizes.
Hopefully Don @BabaBooey will see your request for some pictures of the foot controlled throttle mechanism, looks like you may be able to help him with some pictures of the drive belt guard that is missing from his Toby Cart.
Nice find, looks to have been well looked after too.
The gearbox looks very similar to that used on the earlier Drillgine drill or the Comet version, I never noticed before that the later ones are slightly different.
Does it still have the instructions that the storage box refers to?
The original Bike Motor Kit (below), Chicken Power and Pony Express were all advertised as being capable "of up to 18 mph".
On 3/6/2019 at 8:48 PM, factory said:
I'm sure a read somewhere that some people removed the governor vane to try & get more speed out of the engine too.
The standard bike motor kit was supposed to achieve a max of 15 to 18mph, probably to keep within speed restrictions for bicycles, note that they may not be legal to use on UK roads either (would need annual testing, insurance, drivers license, road tax...... etc).
The original kits also came with a selection of parts to allow it to fit different bike frames.
Could it be for a Wright 100 blade saw (made by Poulan) or one of the re-brands?
You can just about see the end of the blade shaft in one of the pictures here for the Dayton 2Z464 version, also it looks small enough in the video too, but 59cc is nearly double that of a O&R 20A (approx 32cc) though.
I picked up this cool unit yesterday. The guy I bought it from said he made a weed eater with it back in the 1970s. He said the handle was a simple 1/2” conduit that threads onto the base. After looking it over more the engine has some features that I don’t think I’ve seen before. The carburetor is kind of unusual and doesn’t have the little hole where the usual threaded hook screw attaches for the air cleaner. I’m not actually sure how an air cleaner would connect. It also has different style “fins” on the bottom. It’s marked Type 110. Let me know if anyone has more info that can help date the engine
Interesting find and nice to have to history from the guy that made it into a weed wacker.
I have pictures of three other engines exactly like the one fitted to your weed wacker (I can see Type 110 on one of them too), they also have no hole in carb for air filter, a full coil cover, a side needle valve in the carb and a push button stop switch (picture attached).
The lack of fins on the crankcase is typical of 3/4HP Compact I engines.
As for engine dating, I can only give an very rough estimate of early 1960's without knowing the serial number.
I strongly suspect that these engines (Type 110) were intended as spares for the Comet C/Saw, have a look through the recent C/Saw thread and you will see how they used a short tube to connect the carb to the handle, which would have had the air cleaner foam inside.
The coil covers used on the Comet tools have small piece cut out for the pump, a larger piece cut out for the chainsaw and a full cover for the C/Saw (your pictures confirm that last one). As far as I know the simplified cylinder side plates are only found on Comet engines too.
If anyone comes across one of these 13B starter mechanisms that is seized don't try to force it, this maybe caused by dissimilar metal corrosion between the steel centre of the starter reel & the alloy housing (which is used as the bearing).
The alloy housing is a bit fragile due to the four thin sections for the starter reel bearing, it's very easy to crack these. I got this one apart using a hairdryer to heat up & expand the alloy housing, a gas torch would probably be quicker.
Not sure that I’m understanding the exact nature of the question but Stens products are distributed in the UK by
Hi-Level Enterprises Ltd of Doncaster, DN3 1RA.
It wasn't really a question, John found some starter cord that looks similar to the original type used by O&R, i.e. a diamond braided cord with no stripes.
Also Stens don't actually make the cord themselves, they source it from Germany & re-brand it. I was trying to find a European brand that have the same type available, as it can't be very cost effective to ship it from Germany to the US then the UK.
I have had a look at the Hi-Level website but they don't seem to give prices, do you need to register to find out?
13 hours ago, JUST O&R said:
Just thought I would give my two cents about recoil knobs scene we are fixing recoils I found a place to get them .
Are they the same diameter as the original ones? I bought some similar (but slightly larger) wooden balls a few years ago, I only ended up using one as Webhead surprised me by including some original ones with some parts I bought from him.
Seems strange to paint everything, it must have cut down on manufacturing costs or something.
I can't see how it would have saved in production costs as they are using two different paint colors, plus the engine & gearbox were never painted on the older bike kits.
I'm curious as the the age of your bike kit, what are the first three digits of the SN? If it is branded AEP it will date from the mid to late 1970's.
Been working a lot this week just found some time to work on my saw . Made a cardboard stencil of a cover then cut it out of some tin.
Then brazed it together a little sanding and I have a cover. came out ok for the first one. now I might need to paint the rest.
Looking very nice, personally I would keep the original paint on the rest of it as it's still in quite good condition, plus the repro decals don't look quite right.
For reference here are some pictures I took of the coil cover from my Comet pump (I meant to add them a while ago but never got round to it), no idea if the bottom section has a bit cut out of it for the pump as I haven't got any of the other tools to compare.
That's interesting to know, as I had no idea that the Wright saws used the piston to drive the blade directly.
I've not yet seen any O&R Series 20A engines used on a blade saw, there doesn't seen to be anywhere near as many 20A engines out there compared with the smaller ones, I sure more tools will turn up that we haven't seen before too.
Well I give up, I couldn't find any German made 7/64" (2.8mm) braided starter cord over here without stripes, nor could I find the OEM Stens buy it from, there was some similar looking stuff from the Shenzhen Market if you don't mind the long wait.
Anyway I don't like using them but Bezos.com have it for £12.11 including shipping & customs fees from the US, not a bad price, so it's been ordered.
I've recently been working on replacing the missing & damaged plastic spacers originally used for the Aquabug covers. I did initially test some plastic spacers I had in my spares, but they were a bit too large in diameter to fit properly and also didn't react too well with fuel.
Anyway I quickly gave up with those and started looking for something better, eventually I found some brass tubing from Albion Alloys at a model engineering supplier.
Here are the finished spacers after cutting to size, together with the fixings (I've since had to order some longer screws), the second picture shows where they are used.
Ohlsson & Rice: Sugar Bush Supplies Co Quick-Tap Drill
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
Is it anything like the backpack tapping machines shown on page 12 of the 1961 catalog archived by Dominion & Grimm here?:
http://www.dominiongrimm.ca/en/liquidation
Also a similar machine which was invented & patented by R.L. Soule and E.I. Soule, known as the King portable power tree tapper, see about 2/3rds of the way down the page here;
http://maplesyruphistory.com/2019/03/23/evaporator-company-histories-george-h-soule/
David