factory

They are definitely a lot rarer, I certainly couldn't find pictures of any others on the web, although there were some on the old forum but I never saved a copy of them. Here is the only other information I could find, from magazines scanned by google; David

Thanks for reposting the NIAE test report, they certainly had a lot of problems the the early engines they tested. I found a test report made by the U.S. Department of Agriculture in May 1964 for the Paradox pump online recently, I posted it in the Electro Flow pump thread, but here is the link again; http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfimage/64511303.pdf I've downloaded a copy in case it disappears the the linked site. Even though I only took three O&R tools to this years "1000 engine rally" over here, they certainly attracted plenty of interest and there was even a few people that remembered using them in the past. David

This original Ford manual for the model 20A chain saw has been on my ebay watch list for a long time, have you got it?; http://www.ebay.com/itm/171817653659 David

Welcome to the forum. Your engine is a model 13B (1HP), the full model number should be on the cylinder plate. Here is a carb diagram, although it looks like your carb is a later one with the rubber part on the lever, instead of the ball. Ohlsson & Rice Type 210 Carb Diagram + Parts List May 69e.pdf.pdf I can't see the clear valve that goes with the red gasket (item 6 on diagram) and the choke lever has been broken off & shortened, there should be a ball in front of the spring. Webhead and Wallfish on here have some parts for these engines, Webhead also makes replacement carb diaphragms. There is also a carb repair thread to help with rebuilding these here; David

Found the engine diagram for the Model 20A-274 in this thread, PM Wallfish as he has the original. David

Correct, they are Orline (O&R) chain saws badged for Ford, I'm sure someone said they were given away with new Ford tractors, O&R also made badged versions for Sears. (Edit 14/5/19: according to service bulletin S-E083 they were sold by Ford tractor dealers.) Here is my Orline Challenger Mark IID, I will put some better pictures in a new thread. David

Your engine is model 20A-274, so there are probably some slight differences to mine, I suspect the starter mechanism will be different as mine has the early type. I took the carb off mine for a better look at the model number, the carb fitted is a Walbro HDC6 (I've corrected the previous post). Also I have found the first error with the model 20A maintenance manual, as the carb has a right angle fuel inlet and the manual shows an incorrect carb model no. below the picture. Here are some pictures of the carb and the other parts you may be missing. I thought mine was complete but it seems the fuel lines to the carb are missing. The tank outlet is hidden under the starter mechanism housing. David

Looks like my Challenger Mark IID chain saw is fitted with a Walbro HDC6 carb, I will have to double check tomorrow as the picture isn't very clear. Are there any other bits missing? Also is the engine type the same as mine, 20A-258? It should be on a plate like this. David

A slightly more unusual Tiny Tiger generator arrived a couple of weeks ago, it's a Model 400 from Gadco Electra. It doesn't use the permanent magnet rotor found in the Model 300, instead it uses a wound armature & carbon brushes, same as you would find in older generators & motors. The output is 115V DC 400 watts only, there is also no low voltage output provided. Has anyone else on the forum got one of these or any pictures of a complete one, as mine is missing a few bits? I did find a article featuring both the Tiny Tiger 400 generator and a Safe-T-Products brush cutter that also appears to use the O & R engine, in the December 1962 edition of Desert magazine pages 6 & 7, a pdf is available from the swdeserts.com archive here; http://www.swdeserts.com/index_htm_files/196212-DesertMagazine-1962-December.pdf David

Definitely louder than any other engine I've heard at any of the local vintage engine shows. I've always wondered how much difference this exhaust makes to the noise. You've also reminded to get this vintage sound level meter fixed, I bought it more than a year ago and still haven't got round to it! David

Welcome to the forum. I don't have any Ford documents, but do have the O&R diagrams & maintenance manuals for the equivalent Orline chain saws, I will scan them when I get time. Any chance could you post some pictures of your Ford chain saws. David

Welcome to the forum Bernie. Send either Wallfish or Webhead on here a message, they both have spares for these engines, Webhead also has replacement diaphragms for the carb. David

Very nice displays, I displayed a few of mine earlier this month at the Peover Game Fair. David

Seems that the Teles Hedge Trimmer maybe based on the Gibson Hedge Clipper, which is featured in the January 1963 edition of Desert Magazine on page 9, a pdf is available from the swdeserts.com archive here; http://www.swdeserts.com/index_htm_files/196301-DesertMagazine-1963-January.pdf And it was also available in the US as the Paramount Hedge Trimmer, picture taken from ebay. David

The engine on your pump is an early one and they didn't have HP decals. I have found out from two different sources that the Electro Flow Pump was also sold as the Paradox Pump. It was tested by the U.S. Department of Agriculture in May 1964, during the 99 hour test the engine required two spark-plugs, a magneto coil and a set of piston rings. See pdf here: http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfimage/64511303.pdf which also shows the accessories available for the pump. And it was featured in the January 1963 edition of Desert Magazine on page 8, a pdf is available from the swdeserts.com archive here; http://www.swdeserts.com/index_htm_files/196301-DesertMagazine-1963-January.pdf David

There is also one of these in my collection, but it's escaped the camera till now. Mine is the 1HP version, the carb and aluminium cylinder plates were missing when I bought it. I would have thought the original owner of the pump would have chosen the pipes/primer for their intended use when new. David

You have done a very good job at saving the base tank. They are very hard to find, it's even harder to find an ebay seller willing to send one outside the US. The only one I managed to buy came with the engine in post #6, although the seller didn't think it fitted the O&R so listed both items separately. David

Edit. The above post appeared twice, Mods please delete this post. David

The reed block is always aluminium, I meant the reed itself, the older ones are steel and the newer ones clear plastic. Its looking much better now its cleaned up. The instructions that came with my Tiger Tor (230V version) says that they were tested twice, the first to make sure the engine ran properly and a second complete test with the generator. However they didn't set the carb needle valve, this was left for the first user to adjust. David

Did you notice what the reed valve was made of when took the cylinder off? if it's plastic instead of metal, then it was made after December 1963. There were three different sizes of piston rings used in these engines, later ones are the thickest and very early ones are in between the thin & thick sizes. If the air filter still has the original foam present, it should be replaced as it disintegrates with age and can cause damage if it gets sucked into the engine. The majority of engines with the base tank only have three screws for used for attaching the crankcase. Early engines did have a stud & nut fitted below the carb, as shown in the picture (Its missing a screw though, some will arrive next week from Webhead). David

Don't forget to add two stroke oil to the gas, the original mixing ratio (24 to 1) will be on the starter label, but it looks unreadable on yours from the pictures. With modern oils the mixing ratio can be reduced. David

Hopefully the previous owner removed or replaced the air filter foam before running it, as the original stuff disintegrates and can cause damage if it gets sucked into the engine. Webhead on here has new carb diaphragms if you need one, Wallfish has spare parts too. If no one has a spare handle it should be possible to make a replacement, as its just a piece of flat steel with a large rubber grommet on the inside, let me know if you need any measurements. David

Welcome to the forum, Webhead makes new Carb diaphragms and has been some spares, see this thread. Wallfish also has spares for these engines. I would say your Tiny Tiger dates from approx 1963/64 and probably hasn't been used, or not used much (clean starter rope, piston & plug), the seals may be OK if there are no signs of use. I have a Tiny Tiger with engine serial number 035753 (generator 26376), the paperwork that came with it is dated Jan 1964. The serial numbers on the generators don't seem to make much sense though, as I have two later engines with lower serial numbers on the generators. Tiger Manufacturing Company Inc Tiny Tiger Generator General Information Jan 1964.pdf My Tiny Tiger was a pile of bits when I bought it, the crankshaft & piston was missing and the crankcase had suffered damage from a catastrophic failure, lots of bearing dents inside and several cracks. Luckily I found a similar bare early engine (sn 12461) which donated a crankcase, crankshafts and early type piston to complete the rebuild. These are the only pictures I have from before rebuilding it. And here it is after rebuild. David

I've no idea how good they are in 2 stroke engines, Uni-Pak Silicone Oil looks to have been discounted years ago as I can't find any info on it. There is a Unipak (may not be the same company) in Denmark making lubricants, but nothing for 2 stroke engines. David