factory

I will have a look tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure it's made from thin gasket paper. David

The fuel/gas cap usually has a thin gasket inside, maybe it's missing or damaged, the cap for the Tiny Tiger base tank also has a vent hole, I have a Champ generator where the cap has been modified to allow the vent to be open or sealed. David

The service manual gives engine model numbers 13A-181, 13B-328, 13B-340, 13B-341 & 13B-406 as being used for the Chicken Power, the first has the ball bearing and the last has the rubber seal (spares were only available as part of a repair kit), I haven't got info for the others. I have a few later engines without the carb primer button, any engine with a gravity feed fuel tank doesn't need the primer button, however two of the later engines I have with no primer button have a base tank. I had questioned this in the past and it was suggested they should have a primer button, the later parts diagrams don't help as they show both types in the exploded diagram. The parts lists for both the models 13A-181 & 13B-406 give the spark-plug fitted as type CJ14. David

Well I've failed to find any pictures of any model 13B engines fitted with this carb, my service manual folder doesn't have it either, I guess it must have been available towards to end of production of these engines from Advanced Engine Products as in the book in the previous post mentioned. I only have a couple of engines (including a Drillgine) in my collection with the AEP name instead of O&R. The next question is does it need any extra parts to fit to a 13B? I don't suppose you could save me one for when I next need some spares? Which could be soon as I have just run out of the early style bearings with the plastic housings. David

Didn't take too long to figure out. It's mentioned in the book "Small Air-Cooled Engines" 16th edition from Intertec Publishing, I have had two different editions of this book shipped over here, the 16th edition covers the Compact I, II, II, 13A, 13B & 20A models of O&R/Advanced Engine Products engines. Your mystery carb is a Tillotson model HU and it was apparently fitted to late production model 13B engines for constant speed operation, it is pre-calibrated for constant speed operation only and has no fuel/speed adjustments or throttle, the primer button is is used for starting enrichment to allow extra fuel flow. Also no air vane governor is fitted. There is also an exploded diagram of the carb. I now just need to have a look for a strange 13B in my saved pictures. David

No complete engine or tool/kit would have been supplied without a spark-plug, someone has lost it. Looks like it would have had a Champion CJ8 or CJ14 fitted as it's the 14mm cylinder. The oil could have leaked from one of the seals or from the gearbox gasket, the only way to find out if they used a rubber seal or ball bearing in the carb would be to take it apart. David

Ouch. I wouldn't recommend trying to repair a flywheel with broken fins if the taper was OK, it would be completely out of balance. I have one here that someone has glued some bits of sheet aluminium to, it's scrap in my opinion. Also check the flywheel nut hasn't got stripped threads. David

If it's running why do you need another key & flywheel and what happened to for it to land on your foot? A flywheel shouldn't be to hard to find, but you may have to make a key as we mentioned before, if no one has a spare one. David

Very very rarely you come across an original diaphragm that isn't dried out or cracked, has yours been changed already or by the previous owner? As you have had it running before. Some carbs have a second small fuel filter in the bottom half of the carb, I had a similar problem with a Tiger that wouldn't run after being restored the previous year, it had the filter which was clogged preventing fuel getting to the carb. There was an O&R service bulletin recommending that the carb fuel filter should be removed as it caused too many problems, later carbs don't have the second fuel filter. I just cleaned the filter on mine, as the tank filter is missing and the in-line filter I bought still lets some dirt through. I should really replace the missing tank filter, I haven't yet tried removing the steel panel from this type of tank, but others on here have successfully removed them by heating around the panel to loosen the glue/sealant holding them together, you could probably fix your original larger tank if it was leaking from the seal around the panel. Also I had a closer look at the picture, are the two gaskets missing from between the carb assembly and the induction housing? That is the only other thing I can think of, as the screw holding the carb looks too long and I can't see the gaskets, you will get air drawn in if the gaskets are missing. David

The water-cooled cylinder with 10mm spark plug can be found on both the early ¾HP engines as well as the later 0.85HP & 1HP engines, the water-cooled cylinders don't usually turn up without an engine though. It was available from O&R in 1962 (part no. A-40-3) as well as Octura Models but doesn't appear on any other parts lists I have seen. Here are the specifications for the ¾HP, 0.85HP & 1HP engines, note the compression ratio & stroke is different depending on the engine rating, the first is from 1961 and the second is from 1966. I have also seen 14mm cylinders that are water-cooled, but they look like a modified version of the standard cylinder, these do appear in the UK occasionally (both 10mm & 14mm cylinders), but I have always wondered if they were modified by model makers/engineers as the water pipes are never in the same place and the starter/blower housing is often cut down. I even saw one with a hole in the starter/blower housing for a water pipe. I have not found any articles/information about this though, probably not helped as some magazines such as "Model Engineer" don't have a on-line archive. Here is a picture of one of these modified engines (not mine). David

That will be a Champion UY6 10mm spark plug, later engines with the 14mm spark plug used either a Champion CJ8 or Champion CJ14. You may find that the current production Champion spark plugs do not have a re-moveable terminal nut, the modern CJ8 spark plugs I bought are definitely not re-moveable, not sure about the others though as the new CJ14 I bought turned out to be new old stock made in Canada and I have never bought any new UY6 as they are expensive over here, I did buy a box of new old stock from the US though. The non re-moveable terminal nut is only a problem with earlier engines that don't use a HT lead with a spark plug cap. David

The original article for building the White Heat V hydroplane by Tom Perzentka (of Octura Models) in Popular Mechanics from June 1962 used a standard unmodified air cooled engine with the original magneto ignition. The full article including scaled down plans for building the White Heat V hydroplane is available for free on google books here; https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=mtwDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA124#v=onepage&q&f=false It's on pages 124 to 130, pages 186 to 188 and page 190. The plans were originally also available in full size, Octura Models also sold the engine, mount and a kit of parts. The engine used (pictured below) is also one of the first 6000 produced by Ohlsson & Rice. David

Looks like the one from this thread: Hopefully both sections of the old disintegrating filter foam were removed as we didn't mention it in that thread, but it is in the linked carb repair tutorial thread. David

Just remembered I took a couple of pictures last time I made some new flywheel keys. It was made from an aluminium rod that was the closest in diameter to the original key. A disc was turned to the same thickness as the slot in the crankshaft, the disc was then parted off & cut into two halves. A small piece of U section plastic (cut from a document binder strip) was used to hold the half disc for filing the height to fit the flywheel & crankshaft. Webhead's method for making the key from aluminium sheet stock sounds perfect if you don't have a lathe. David

There are two types of flywheel key, the early engines had a steel key and the later a aluminium key (which is slightly smaller), if your Tiny Tiger is the one in the linked thread below. you will need the aluminium key. I would suggest asking Wallfish or Webhead on here for one. If they don't have any, it is possible to make them if you have access to a small lathe, I have made a few for my engines as well as a special in-between size for fitting later flywheels to early engines (I had to do this as early starter dogs are not available). I don't know of anywhere that sells modern keys of the correct size & material. I did suggest making a handle in that thread, do you need the measurements? The only way to get an original would be from another Tiny Tiger, as I don't know of any source for NOS spares for the generator. There is a thread created by Wallfish showing how to take the Tiny Tiger generator apart for restoration or repairs, link below; David

The Pittsburgh Press newspaper from the 30th December 1962 also seems to suggest the internal batteries were used in some way for starting; "Device weighs only 14 pounds advertised as the world's smallest power plant is the 14-pound 110-120 volt unit introduced by the Creme Lure Co - Box 3379- Akron. The Power-Pack portable will operate four hours at full load on four pints of regular gasoline with outboard motor oil. Lights 250 watts (5-50 watt bulbs or equivalent) continuously. Besides providing light in out of the way places, it can be used for pistol drills, portable electric tools and electric razors. It's ideal for fishermen, hunters, campers, emergency light for homes, fallout shelters, civil defense, etc. The engine is an Ohlsson and Rice compact, two stroke cycle, 6300 RPM. Ignition regular flashlight batteries for easy start; magneto to run. Small built-in pilot light for refueling and starting in the dark." David

I suspect the engine on the ebay one has been replaced at some point in the past, as the serial number on the generator is very close to the number on mine, but the engine is quite a bit newer. It also looks to have not been used very much. My collection has a pump and a different generator, both with black starters. Is it my imagination or did I see a blue version of the Creme Lure generator on the previous forum? David

I saw the triple stack picture and thought it was perfect for fools day. No fools now, here is my scan (second attempt) of the Perry Aquabug Owner's manual, the quality isn't great as the original was only a small book (pages 4" by 5.1") but it's better than nothing. Perry Aquabug Owner's Manual.pdf David

If the exhaust collector will not move, the cylinder will need to be unscrewed. But make sure the piston is free to move before trying this, as the con-rod will break if the piston is stuck. The engine maintenance manual gives details on making a cylinder removal tool. The instructions given are to make it from a piece of flat steel 3/16" thick & 1" square, with a hole drilled in the middle for using a screwdriver as a "T" handle. I made one from a piece of steel & bar found in a box of offcuts & salvaged bits in the shed. I didn't bother to make it 1" square though, I only squared up the ends and drilled the hole for the bar. If the cylinder is very tight I usually use a vice to hold the engine crankcase (use wood or similar to protect the engine from the vice jaws) and use an adjustable spanner to turn the tool. You will probably need to replace the gaskets if you remove the cylinder to prevent leaks. Also make sure that the slot in the top of the cylinder lines up with the crankshaft or is at 90 degrees to the crankshaft when reassembling. Here is a picture of the cylinder removal tool I made. David

Warn Industries are still going and they found adverts for the Warn winch model 800G & 800GW in their archives, see link below; https://www.warn.com/blog/2012/04/24/vintage_product_warn_800g_gasoline_winch.shtml David

I wish the Nichols was mine, it's the only one I've seen, the pictures were saved from an old ebay listing about 2 years ago. The Creme Lure in the first two posts is mine though, I have never run mine either and will probably not run it due to the design flaws of it being made from fragile plastic. The only info for the use of the batteries is mentioned in the article linked in post 4, where it says "you start it on a built-in battery, then switch to magneto once it's running ". I repair electrical & electronic items including motor control stuff for a living and I can't understand how it's even possible to start the engine with the AC alternator generator using 3 volts DC from the internal batteries. There was a thread discussing this on the old forum where usedtoolman had tried using a battery and it didn't work for starting the engine (it's not clear whether it was tested with an external battery connected to the DC output or the 2 internal batteries), link from the internet archive below; https://web.archive.org/web/20130814212024/http://ohlssonandrice.forumer.com/creme-lure-generator-question-t1187502.htm David

The Nichols generator was featured in the Jan 1963 edition of Popular Science magazine; https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=myADAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA157#v=onepage&q&f=false Both the Nichols & Creme Lure generators had 110V AC outputs as standard, some also have 6V & 12V DC outputs as well. According to the article linked above, the batteries inside were used for starting. David

This generator was also sold by Nichols Ind. Inc. of Jacksonville, Texas. Here are a couple of pictures I archived from ebay. David

And some pictures of the horrors inside, this is a good reminder not to leave batteries in items that are not being used, the nine lives have clearly been used up with these vintage examples that were found in mine! I had to do some dismantling to remove them. Also note that the generator coils can become loose, which will result in the them being damaged if the generator is run. David

Thought I should start a thread for the Creme Lure generator, as we don't seem to have one. Here are a couple of pictures of the generator in my collection, it's a "super portable power pack" model S made by the Creme Lure Company of Tyler, Texas & Akron, Ohio. Most of these generators haven't aged well due to the frame/covers and gas tank being made from plastic, the gas tanks are often warped & the covers can crack. David