factory

That should clean up well, looks in good condition. I also use fuel/gas for cleaning at home, at work we use various expensive cans of spray cleaner for cleaning stuff there, these are mostly petroleum based, but fuel/gas works just as well. I don't have a compressor at home, but I do take the air filters to work and use the air line to remove the last remains of the old filter foam, before fitting new foam. David

It's best not to store engines with no plug fitted as dirt and moisture will get into the cylinder, even a dud plug will do for blocking it, I keep some for this reason. I even had a hedge trimmer where maggots had set up home in the cylinder, it go oiled & cleaned up fairly quickly. David

I have a similar design but smaller carb with the same fuel inlet/needle assembly, it has K&B MFG stamped onto it. You can post as many pictures as you like if you become a forum supporter, it's well worth the $10 and helps with the forum running costs. David

Probably the one being discussed in this thread, the full advert is on the website linked in post 3. At least two O&R powered Du-Bro helicopters are on youtube, a Du-Bro Shark helicopter which was found as a NOS kit about 11 years ago for $175; And a Du-Bro Hughes 300 helicopter; David

A few of us have one of the repair shop service manuals, which contain a lot of info including parts lists & diagrams for the engines & some tools and the engine maintenance instructions, most of the repair shops didn't bother paying for the yearly updates though so some info is harder to find. David

J-B Weld is available over here and presumably they have a similar product. Chemical Metal is a brand name of Loctite here, I'm guessing it's named something else in the US as there is a company called Chemical Metal Industries over there, just haven't found it yet. David

Definitely interested, is it one of these; http://www.vrhc.co.uk/rc helicopters/USA/Du-Bro/Du-Bro.htm From the link it does look like one or two did find their way over here in the 1970's, £195 from a Birmingham model shop in 1975. David

Just done a quick count and I have 29 different tools (a few more if you count different versions of the same tool) in my collection, 13 of which have been found over here. There is also quite a lot of engines here too, as well as a few duplicate tools. Definitely still catching up though. David

Chemical Metal is a brand of two part polyester resin made by Loctite/Henkel over here, it is probably sold under a different name in the US. The safety data sheet provides all the info on what's in it; http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/001f/0900766b8001f4d2.pdf David

Unless the engine is an Octura conversion, the only parts usually changed for RC use are the carb and spark to glow ignition. Early engines can be more tricky to find parts for, but for the later ones parts are easier to find, apart from tanks and the cooling baffle plates for the cylinder which are often missing. For cleaning I usually clean the oil & dirt off with petrol (gas) using various old brushes (check they don't dissolve in the fuel first) for the cast alloy parts. I prefer to keep the original paint if it's not in bad condition. Steel parts that are rusty are cleaned with wire brushes/wheel and oiled after. I have looked into blueing/bluing kits for getting them looking like new, but haven't tried any yet. I don't currently attempt to clean corrosion from the alloy parts as I don't like the scratched finish that results from using wire brushes on softer alloy parts. Unless they have been left outside or somewhere damp they usually aren't corroded. The exception is the Turbair sprayer where the pesticide chemicals used seem to corrode everything. There are specialist companies out there offering vapor blasting that can make alloy parts look better (such as carbs/alloy covers for classic car & bike engines), no idea what it would cost though. David

It always ends badly if the cylinder is unscrewed with the piston stuck, if they don't turn over with the starter I usually put some oil down the spark-plug hole and after a week or so I remove the starter assembly & turn the flywheel to get them unstuck. I've also had a dried out PTO bearing on one engine preventing it turning over. So far I've only had one stuck engine where the piston could not be freed, it was a Champ generator which I suspect didn't have any oil in the fuel & seized up. A previous owner had already broke the con-rod removing the cylinder & lost most of the bearings. I did eventually separate the piston from the cylinder by pressing it out using a vice, a scrap crankcase and a rod of metal, the piston came out without any further damage (only try this with 14mm spark-plug cylinders, 10mm types will result in holey piston), but I never did manage to separate the rings from the piston. The early all metal governor vane does have a bend in the vane, if bent to the incorrect shape the shaft can fall out of the carb when running resulting in over speeding of the engine, I had this problem with my first engine, I did get it sorted with help from the forum. The Pile-O-Bits Tiny Tiger I restored did originally have a Type 111 engine, an incomplete Type 98 engine of similar age was used for parts to replace the missing crankshaft, piston and cracked crankcase. Before and after pictures here; David

Apparently the Chicken Power bicycle engine used the Type 181 engine, this has a single reduction gearbox with clutch, which gives a maximum output speed of 3300rpm instead of 6300rpm. Unfortunately I seem to be missing the Type 276 info from my book. The Chicken Power kits do appear for sale occasionally. David

I've just seen what it's for, a home-made centrifugal clutch, the other half is on your Fox engine. David

A picture of the other side would help, also does it fit the PTO shaft? I didn't see it in the lot originally so it may be for a pulley for another model engine. David

The seller of the parts also had a couple of engines that had been converted for RC model use (boats). Top one is probably a pulley, but does look a bit like the flywheel used on the much older small Ohlsson model engines that weren't used for model planes. The other is possibly an adaptor for the PTO shaft, again for RC model use. I have a slightly longer one that came with an early parts engine, that was used to rebuild a Tiny Tiger with a damaged crankcase and other missing bits. David

It appears that Fox Motori who supplied the 22cc engines for the Turbair Fox also made a backpack sprayer with the same engine, see here: http://www.foxsprayers.it/en/about-us/history/ Also found a parts diagram for the Fox Motori F7 engine here:http://www.foxsprayers.it/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Motore-F7.pdf A while ago I scanned the Turbair Handbook which features the Turbair Fox sprayer on page 5, it was uploaded as a pdf here; David

Certainly looks very nice, it's also one of the rarest O&R tools.

I'm fairly certain that the above aircraft is a variant of the Bensen B8M Gyrocopter with an Ohlsson & Rice powered pre-rotator for the starting the main rotor blades (not fitted in the pictures). Bensen also made a Gyroglider, which is the same but without the 4-cylinder McCulloch engine. Not sure why the tank is fitted to a rotating part. The only info I have on the pre-rotator is this corner of the drawing saved from ePay and some pictures of another complete pre-rotator with an O&R engine, which originally had a red engine starter & tank. I can't any information for the Bensen gyrocopter being used as a drone, but the McCulloch engine was used in a drone, I have found a picture of one here; http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?t=3934#p30037 It does appear that the USAF had 3 Bensen autogyros which were part of an experimental Discretionary Descent Vehicle (DDV) program, but this idea was abandoned at the end of the Vietnam war, more info from NASA here, on page 34; https://history.nasa.gov/monograph31.pdf The prototype of the Bensen B-8M Gyrocopter dating from 1957 is on display at the Boeing Aviation Hangar at the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center, Chantilly, VA. Pictures here; https://airandspace.si.edu/collection-objects/bensen-b-8m-gyrocopter If you look closely at the first picture in the link you can just about see the O&R engine, I suspect the O&R engine was added in the 1960's as the earliest ones date from about 1961. David

As far I know they don't make the 2-stroke petrol version any more. Could the tank not be repaired or is it missing? David

Some manuals for the battery & mains electric versions of the Turbair (now called Electrofan) are available from Micron here; http://www.microngroup.com/files/electrafan_12_manual_-_english_(rev__4).pdf http://www.microngroup.com/files/electrafan_240_manual_-_english_(rev__3).pdf Looking at the parts diagrams it appears they haven't changed much over the years. There is also a video on youtube of the battery powered Turbair, compare it with the old picture in post 7 where virtually no protective clothing is being worn! Link below; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XCRxDGdm0A David

Do you still have the sprayer for them? Butanol based cleaning chemicals are still widely used. I wonder if Isi-Butanol is a PBI brand name for Iso-Butanol. Acarcides are a type of pesticide, containing different chemicals depending on what they are used for. The book posted above says it's a mix of Dicofol/Tetradifon, Dicofol is still used but limited in use per year/crop. Can't find anything useful info for Tetradifon though. Based on the description Dicambate appears to replace others in the book above, can't find any info for it on it's own though. Anyone reading this should check for current info on the chemicals to find out if they are banned or restricted and how harmful they are. David

Welcome to the forum. Don't throw the original bottles away, these machines which are still being made & used (with a different shape bottle) are often sold without the bottle. Yes many of the old pesticides are now banned, such as DDT & Zineb (not in all countries though when I checked), but some are still available such as certain types of Acaricide & Malathion, I haven't checked all of the list in the brochure above. If the contents are not wanted they could be transferred (wear gloves as the concentrated chemicals are probably harmful) into a modern bottle, labelled and disposed of properly. Though some people working at waste/recycling centres haven't a clue what to do with chemicals, I took a jar of chemicals to my local waste/recycling centre & when asked where to dispose of it, he took it off me and threw it in the bottle bank with the contents. Anyone reading this should check for current info on the chemicals to find out if they are banned or restricted and how harmful they are. David

Found a better picture of the Paul Bunyan decal, from the Chainsaw Collectors forum, thread linked below; http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=118&t=12848 Looks like some had this decal instead, another poor quality picture saved from ePay. Here are some pictures of a yellow Chip-A-Saw that sold recently. David

A teaspoonful of oil poured into the cylinder is the standard procedure recommended by O&R for any engine that is going to be stored, even if only for a short time. The oil is then spread around by cranking the engine several times at various angles, also the piston should be stopped half way up the cylinder to block the exhaust ports. There is a thread discussing preparing these engines for storage here; Also see the challenger chain saw manual I posted here; It's the later model 20A engine but the storage procedure is the same, see page 10, It also mentions emptying the fuel tank before storing and running the engine till it stops to remove fuel mix from the lines & carb. When the engine is used again the preservative oil remains and causes blue exhaust that quickly diminishes. David

Found the webpage with the Octura adverts; http://collectair.org/vintageengines.html The Octura/O&R engine and adverts are about half way down the page. David