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factory

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Everything posted by factory
 
 
  1. Is the Military green O&R this one ? If it is it's almost certainly a type 133 engine (that I mentioned in post 6) presumably sold as military surplus at some point, looks like a previous owner thought about using it for a model boat. The page with it is not a marine manual, it's a printout of the Octura ad that is on another website (I can't remember where it's from but I have it saved too). You should send Wallfish pictures of the crankshafts needed for your Tiny Tiger, as there are different types depending on the age of the engine. If you edit any pictures to reduce the file size you will be able to post a few pictures on this forum. David
  2. Hopefully the attached pdf I have created of the parts list/diagram & operating instructions will be useful in rebuilding the compressor set. Ohlsson & Rice Orline Compressor Parts List & Operating Instructions 1969.pdf David
  3. Wallfish and Webhead have some spare parts for these engines, hopefully they can sort you out with the part that got broken if it can't be repaired. Is the unused Military engine a type 133? Quite a few of these have turned up over the past few years, I have never found out the intended use for them though (there is almost no trace on the web when I researched the military part numbers), I don't think they were spare engines for the military version of the Champ generator though as the mounting is different. David
  4. Are they getting confused with converting for running on RC glow fuel? Diesel would need a higher compression ratio. Also how would you lubricate the engine and would all the rubber seals be OK with diesel? Have you got any pictures of you O&R engines? David
  5. See this thread for some pictures of the other Chip-A-Saw. David
  6. Here are some pictures of the Paul Bunyan & Chip-A-Saw chainsaws, pictures saved from ebay. David
  7. I imported a pair of these chainsaws a few years ago, but as the original decals are long gone I'm not sure if they are Paul Bunyon saws or not. Here are some pictures of one of them. I have since seen this saw branded as both Paul Bunyan (spelling is correct) and the Chip-A-Saw, here are the decals from those. Does anyone know which is correct? David
  8. The 13B252 engine/carb diagram & 13A starter instructions have already been uploaded as PDF's in the engine diagram & manuals thread I started here: The 13B252 engine is the type fitted to the Webb Little Wonder hedge-trimmer I have, I suspect my short Little Wonder hedge-trimmer would be the same type, but someone pinched the cylinder plate with the serial/type details. The starter repair instructions appear to have been supplied with a starter cord repair kit for some tools over here. I have some other engine diagram scans still to upload there. David
  9. I guess the repair shop that originally had that manual, must have been one that actually paid the yearly upkeep charge. Here are some pictures of the O&R tools in a garden equipment catalogue from 1967. David
  10. According to a post on this site; http://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/32713-a-pony-express-bicycle-engine Advanced Engine Products went out of business shorty after changing the name of the bicycle engine from Chicken Power to Pony Express. Note the change of address in Webhead's Pony Express brochure from Los Angeles, California to Eden Prairie, Minnesota. There was a TV ad for the Chicken Power bicycle engine, it can be found on youtube here; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNtHBEdZDYs Here is an ad for the Pony Express bicycle engine from Popular Mechanics magazine May 1978 that was scanned by google. David
  11. There are more pictures of pmackellow's Tarpen Mini Engine powerhead & Tarpen Flex rotary cultivator in this O&R thread that was created before the O&R forum moved here; I don't think there are many Tarpen Mini engines about as they offered many adaptors to power the Tarpen Flex range from mowers, tractors and other machinery. David
  12. Have you checked if it's the piston/cylinder or the starter mechanism that's the cause of it being seized. I had one of those later style starters with the starter reel seized due to corrosion, I never managed to un-seize it and noticed a couple the thin alloy sections of the housing were cracked, so ended up buying a replacement from Webhead. David
  13. Again it depends on the condition, also I can't see a carb or magneto, so about £150. David
  14. That is almost certainly a Universal Motor Company two stroke engine made in Derby, available in sizes of 1/2 & 3/4HP and thought to have been produced into the 1930's. Please note the value depends on condition and is not necessarily the maximum quoted. David
  15. It's a Whitney Simplex gas engine made to the Bathe design, dates to around 1908 to 1910 and was made in London. Can you take a picture of the underside of the cylinder so we can see if the valve gear is still there. The value without the valve gear would be somewhere in the region of £400 to £450, with the valve gear about £750, but this depends on the mechanical condition, which is difficult to assess from photographs. There is a article on Bathe engines in the Stationary Engine Magazine, August & September 2016 issues. Here is a nice picture of the ad from 1908, £5 in 1908 is around £500 today. David
  16. The engine in the first photo in post #1 is from the first one or two years of production, the brochure/price list from 1961 doesn't give a option for a vertical tank, only the standard, jumbo, or base tank seem to have been available. David
  17. It's a complete mystery what this engine with "Mark V" decal came from. David
  18. Another Ohlsson tool I haven't seen complete before, remains of an Acme Engineering Co. powerhead. It's possibly for a tree trimmer, as the patent number on it relates to a tree trimming saw mechanism, the patent is a bit earlier than any O&R's though as its from 1953, patent document is linked below. https://worldwide.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/originalDocument?CC=US&NR=2703928A&KC=A&FT=D&ND=3&date=19550315&DB=&locale=en_EP# David
  19. Unfortunately the serial number is missing from mine (should be on the missing cylinder plate/cooling baffle) so it's impossible to tell which is later, unless someone has one the same. According to an O&R service bulletin the "cooling baffle is seldom, if ever, lost" David
  20. The service info I have gives a starter cord length of 44" for engines below S/N 099151 and 54" for those above 099151. The length changed as a different spring was used for later engines. The later instructions for starter repair (newer type) that I posted in the linked thread below, says that the cord is looped to form a knot on the reel (see Fig 10) to prevent the cord being pulled from the anchor wire. David
  21. Just noticed the decal is different to the one on my short Little Wonder, picture in older thread linked below David
  22. Here are some pictures of my Bridges Mini-Mota drill, the tank on mine must have leaked as someone has repaired it with solder. I wonder where all the chuck keys go, none of my O&R drills came with one. David
  23. Looks like your sorted, it should be easier to adapt that tank, than to build one from scratch. I'm guessing it's from an outboard motor like the one in Wallfish's display in the "Big O&R display" thread. David
  24. There are plenty of Champion UY6 plugs on ebay.com , that's where I bought a NOS box full a few years ago, as it worked out cheaper than buying them over here at the time. I've had many engines with missing or incorrectly fitted long reach plugs. some of these were fitted by unhelpful sellers before they shipped. David
  25. Yes the forum did seem to go off-line for a few minutes when I first tried to reply and the post didn't appear. I then went into the shed to check the size of the carb screw as it wasn't on my notepad list. The pictures were still there when I started the reply again though. I didn't realise the plastic check valve was now available again, I will probably need some more when I use the last two spares I have, as the early ones seems to deteriorate in the same way as the diaphragms, I even had one check valve completely missing the flap section. David
 
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