HeadExam

Alexis de Tocqueville was sent to America in 1831 by the French government to study many aspects of our government and wrote a book about his findings and comparing them to some of the problems Europe was facing due to a socialistic government. He believed one day America would fall to the same ways as more people demanded more for doing less. We are arriving at that state as we speak.

Those aren't cheap, hope you can source an aftermarket part, some of the original NOS stuff goes right of 60 dollars US, even aftermarket ones go 30

Thank you, I will look into it. This David Brown is a dandy of a tractor for sure.

I thought those were Lombardini 8hp engines Norm

I believe I have the issue fixed, but I'm still in the dark as to how this confounded system works. I love the tractor, but it has so far bettered me in its sophistication. There is a cable that can be positioned in a static hold or on the center/top link. I think it has to do whether the rear hydraulic or the lift is being used, but I do not know that for sure. I have all the manuals, but between trying to learn what all the parts and terms are to understanding why and how the features work it has been a slow go at becoming proficient with the tractors abilities. The cable was secured in the first picture to the rights side of the driver behind the lift control, but in order to use ground engaging implements this cable must be moved to the center/top link, you can see the holder where it slides into at the back of the center link rod

Merry Christmas to all from this side of the warmer pond. 14 deg C here today

Pretty as a postcard George

Very nice upcoming projects, looking forward to all, but especially the Westwood diesel.

So it is. I wasn't aware the Wheel Horse's used anti vibe carriages or motor mounts, many of the older ones were bolted directly to the frame, like the early Simplicity, Allis, and Ariens tractors. Still its good your looking for another sump, hard to say if that would last.

My main concern is from the vibration and/or the bouncing of the engine on the hard frame. Many tractors have sums mounted directly to the frame and others use rubber isolated carriages. It might be a good Idea to start looking for another sump.

"The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry", Robert Burns

Happy Birthday George!

Many kohler engines burn oil due to worn valve guides, if you didn't replace them yet I sure would before you start I up, might also want to inspect valve faces and seats as well if you haven't done so already. EDIT: I think you can test valve guides by using a manometer to test pressure. Compression testers wont work on Kohler engines with ACR as the valves don't seat until after 600 rpm

Thank you George. I do not have the 3 coulter/disc wheels that cut the sod and any I have found are 100's of miles away and hundreds of dollars a piece used; which I find unfathomable. I tightened the nuts on the lift handle pivot and that seemed to take care of the hydraulic problem. I also shortened my center link so my tips would not point up, the plow pins are offset to so I don't have to change the draught arms differently and the plow has the ability to tack left or right in case of hitting a hard root or rock. I have stabilisers on both sides and will take some more pictures tomorrow morn. I'm hoping it will be dry enough to put the plow in the dirt later this week. Thanks to all for the advice, I hope to make a decent plow very soon.

Thank you George. One problem I had was in the hydraulics, the lift would go up and down, but I could not set it to stop or hold. I believe by tightening the nut on the lift lever has helped that situation, I may need to tighten a little more. The plow would bury itself and stop the tractor when I let the plow into the ground and when I lifted the lever a little it would come out of the ground. I'm not sure how to set the center link on a 3 bottom plow either. I'm running a 54hp David Brown Selectamatic 990 live drive six speed

I'm a long way from your ability, but as soon as it dries our I will be practicing some more. Setting the plow up has been tricky for me and I suppose others as well.

Wheres the cutting deck?

You might as well incorporate as a museum for tax purposes, at this point you probably have more Horticultural history than many museums. Very nice collection

Maybe paint the other color? Are you going to clear coat?

Excellent video Joseph, thanks for sharing good times at the RPT

My earlier post about larger rear tyres was a bit in error, as it looks like you are using a 8" bolt on rim on the front. Most of my upgrades I went to a 10" rim and therefore needed to use taller rear tyres. Your set up looks great! BTW, the C-125 originally had white rims all the way around, but silver would be good too.

Seeing what was left of the aircraft and hearing that you blokes would and could restore it leaves me in awe, good job boys! https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/europe/spitfire-norway-mountain-great-escape-pilot-found-second-world-war-nazi-raf-espionage-alastair-gunn-a8646841.html

I've done this upgrade on at least 4 different big GTs, but I was able to source the trailer hubs in 3/4" on tractors that I had that came with 3/4" spindles, but some of my large GTs already had 1" spindles. For steering ease, durability, and looks it is well worth the 50 quid. I also went with a 25"-30" tall rear tyre to keep it level. Doing the front wheel/tyre upgrade it makes the front tyre 19-21 inches tall and often the design of the front axle makes the front of the tractor taller using the stock 23" tall rear tyres

That is a great bit of work!

I'm just wondering how long it will be before I start seeing commercial movies you produce, great job.