Cub Cadet

Next was the red paint But first heres a little reminder about what I started off with Now we have this

More body filler than I could have imagined was used on the hood but looks pretty decent now

I might try some spacing washers, the holes are slotted a little already, one problem i've had is that the bolts that holt the recoil on are spotwelded and the spotweld had broken therefore I cannot undo or tighten them, I may have to drill them out Yes I thought straightening it wouldn't be an option.

I have an issue with the pull start on the Clinton engine on my RJ, I think its stemming from the fact that the flywheel backing plate is bent and cracked which means the cowl doesn't bolt on how it should, this means that the pull start won't disengage from the flywheel properly and when we start it it catches. Does anyone think the plate can be straightened or does anyone have any spares? Its a Clinton B1290/B1260, thanks

Long overdue update. now that all of the rot and rust had been removed and repaired the next job was making the hood smooth enough to get a nice finish. Lots of time and filler has been used so far to get a nice smooth finish, heres some photos.

My RJ-58 will be making an appearance, need to finish it first though

Awesome Find!

Nice work!

Ive had them on 2 tractors and think they're great!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-8-UNF-linkage-ball-joint-rod-end-Pack-of-5-1939/161585126330?hash=item259f395bba:g:a4gAAOSwhcJWH6zd i bought these for my Cub Cadet, you have to watch whether you have left hand threads or right hand threads but I think this supplier may have both, I found these to be a very well british made product

You've got them now but i've always bought mine from unity tyres, a pair of Duro ones with tubes cost me £30

Merry Christmas all!

Thanks Chris, I did read that the cover helped with the belt, thats next on the list of parts to make I think I may take the pulleys off and give them a polish next.

More replacement of the rusty metal and holes were next on the list. Checking everything lines up as it should. The idler set up that we made, one problem we have had is getting the belt to stop spinning when the pedal is pressed. So far we have not been successful Newly made tank straps welded on and working. Looks more like a tractor now The hood is now rust free and after lots of panel beating its fairly straight.

Excellent job!

The engine pulley was next on the list, i bought a taper lock one but this came with a few problems, The engine shaft was geared and it was also not long enough the slide the pulley out to line up with the transmission pulley. I turned a new belt groove first A small test for alignment. The above image shows the issue. the taperlock bush is an 1'' ID but the shaft was about 11/16" so I made a bush. The first bit turned to 1" Then I bored the inside out to fit tightly over the engine shaft. A couple of grub screws with tapered ends screwed to clamp the bush.

Thanks Norm, haha, no all this progress is from over the summer when I don't tend to use a computer. Just bringing the thread up to date

Small update Starting to look more like a tractor now The hoods getting somewhere now steering stops welded on Started looking at the clutch mechanism which was missing

Works a treat that Chris!

Thanks everyone, I cant remember exactly it was just some grey primer I had a tin of. I'd have normally used etch primer but didn't have any to hand.

More progress, Due to the lack of large round bar I decided to use smaller round stock on the slot hitch, to get around this I turned some bushes for the transmission and used some M12 threaded bar. parts primed And started the final coats. I opted to use cellulose paint and proper top coat thinners instead of enamel and standard thinners like I used on my cub. Now due to not been able to source any hubs, the old style or the newer ones we had to think long and hard about what to do. In typical fashion we decided it was probably easier and quicker to make our own Heres how we started My dad made a template on the computer of the original shape of the hubs We opted to use taperlock bushes and sprockets, the first job was turning off the teeth. the rough shape was cut out of 1/2" plate and the 'sprocket' welded on. Next I turned the face true, bored the centre hole to 1" and drilled the bolt holes. Then using a thinner piece of plate we welded the piece onto the hub, this is for the wheel to balance onto. Next i turned the piece round and spent hours grinding and filing the hub to shape. Its always been a pain trying to balance a wheel while screwing the lug bolts in so I opted to make my life easier and welded bolts onto the hubs instead and use wheel nuts. All is good so far so hopefully they hold up.

Nice work! Going to be very useful.