wurzel

Hi Fellas,
Here are some photos of my Raider 10 Build which now wears a 321 Engine.
It is nearly finished i am currently just waiting for a fuel tank.
Cheers, Rex321

hi i have a very nice wisconsin tjd 18hp twin if you are intrested
 

Just started with the same Pump and Fuel system changes on the '74' C-120.
It's also nearly up to 5 hours running since I fully rebuilt the Re-bored engine with the re-ground Crank.
Wanted to check for the amount of cast iron dust in the sump while I drained the oil, so I 'Jacked up' the front end and got most of the oil out.
I then put a blast of air down through the Pump aperture to get most of the residue to the back of the Sump/Pan, followed by a small amount of clean oil and left to drain again.
Just out of curiosity, I thought I'd have a look inside to check how clean it was with my handy 'Scope on a Rope'- 

 
All looked fine and took a screen shot of the Con Rod end, Cap/bolt and the Oil Way for the Crank journal . Minimum focusing distance is about 8 cm-

 
Not the best image copy, but a handy piece of cheap gear. Just the Drain Tap to fit and she's good to go for hard run.
 
 
 
      

nice find it looks like it hasnt been used
 

Spent a bit more time, fork done. Just the actuator to sort. I've tested the pulley at fixed settings, and manually pushed the fork with the engine running.
 
 
 

Greetings,
 
I am new to this forum and I am looking for some help with my new (to me) Tiny Tiger.  I have it running (thanks webhead for the new diaphragm) but now have discovered that my gas tank leaks.  It appears to me that the panel of the gas tank that has the operating instructions on it was manufactured as a separate piece and put in place and sealed on the tank.  Gas leaks around what I believe to be the seam of that panel.
I was thinking I could remove the panel, reseal and reinstall.  After closer examination, I think that is much easier said than done.  I want to keep it as clean and original as possible so I am looking for wisdom from this forum on how to proceed.  I have included pictures.  Hope they show up.  Thanks in advance for any help you folks can offer.
 
 

Want one , infact simply need one .That is a thing of beauty And has just gone straight to the top of my " have to have " wish list .
 
Get a good named tank sealant kit , the simplest way unless there are through bolts on the alternator side of the tank simply pulling the plate onto a rubber seal ( bit hopeful ) .
Other than that cover the sticker with a clear vinyl and fill the empty tank with boiling water to see if the sticker comes free .
Assuming the tank is a 2 section affair and the plate where the sticker goes is stuck onto the aluminium casting , with the tank full to the brim with water try gently heating around the edge of the plate to burn off any epoxy / glue that would have been used to fix it there .A chefs blowlamp or micro torch is enough to burn epoxy glues .
If it is just epoxy then the plate and tank would have to be cleaned with a stainless steel wire brush and rinsed using carb cleaner several times to give a good grease free surface for you to apply new epoxy to .
Place the plate in position and put some weights on it over night to let it set .Leave it a 2 or 3 days or so before filling the tank with fuel to allow the epoxy to cure  .
Cut the vinyl applied over the sticker to shape and re-glue the sticker back on .

I've seen Bolens snow mobile hats, but never outdoor equipment hats. This one from the early 80's seem to show the newly designed Bolens QT16, and Iseki Bolens tractor, as wel as older ride-a-matics, walk behinds, snowblowers, and tillers. I got this from Canada

hi if its an inertia starter the cog may be stuck on the starter shaft  spray the cog with wd40 and try tapping the starter with a hammer as you turn it over failing that pull the starter and see if you can free the  cog 

Here's my late 1950's wacker plate.

I picked this up recently, it is a yazoo rider with a 12.5hp Wisconsin engine. It is a 60" deck and it is the original engine. Quite a quirky thing and I think it dates to the mid 50s. My plan is to get it up and running and keep it in the collection.

This gem is now all but finished, if anyone is interested it will be at tractor world in a couple of weeks time.

Heres the photos, not totally happy with the finish on the tool box so this will be redone.

Spent nearly 3 hours today fitting the rear rotor covers. Am a little disappointed
with the quality of fit considering how much they cost. Took a lot of fettling to get
lined up properly. Even had to resort to taking a grinder to it.
Got the final decal from titch fitted and the Brass plate I had made a while ago.
The chain was tensioned and instead of oil I used Pecker grease as I have on
other Gems, its very messy stuff but saves the risk of leaks.

After the paint had a couple of days to set I started building her back up. With the selector rod refitted
and adjusted I'm pleased to report all 3 gears and neutral seem to select. I painted the black bits on
the various levers and fitted the closest match to the original handle grips that I could find.

A couple of weeks ago I finaly felt up to doing some more work on the old girl. I fitted a N.O.S oil
filter that I obtained a few years ago. The starting handle pivot was freed up by getting it very hot.
I also prepped and sprayed most of the small fittings.
I hadn't been very happy with finish obtained on the rotor shields etc so these were re rubbed down
and given another top coat.
One of the missing parts on this Gem as mentioned was the chain cover. Early Gems had plain
chain covers, going through my store I had a sound but battered one, so as they are like hens teeth
I spent days straightening it and smoothing back the filler.

I lost most of June and over half of July due to a combination of having some time off work and
also not enjoying the best of health. However the one thing that I did manage to do is to apply
the truly excellent decals that Titch from Machinery Decals sent me. Thankyou so much Titch,
they really lift the appearance of the Gem.

Heres the rotor shaft and shields painted.Sorry for the poor quality, they were taken
on my phone.

Next up was the rotor shaft. Yet again a new bearing was needed. Most of the blades are a recent replacement
however Ive managed to obtain a N.O.S set of genuine Howard blades, rather than the Dowdeswell ones that
are available now. Note how the rotorshaft is almost the same as the earlier Howard Junior, rather than the more
common gem type. Howard must of been using up old stock on these early machines.
I purchased a new set of Rotor shields a couple of years back off Standen Engineering. I paid more for them than
I paid for this whole machine! The rear soil flap wasn't used on these early machines and they both needed
extensive modifying to look like the correct type, with pieces being let in and the seems being welded up.

I was now up to the end of April. A forklift proved a god send assisting with lining up the engine and gearbox. As you've probably seen
in the other photos the gearbox flange was broken. As cast is hard to successfully weld, after recommendations I used J-B Weld to
bond it in place. Then after rubbing down and prepping a respray followed. For the first time in nearly a month I actually felt like I was
actually making some progress.

An initial assessment revealed that the machine was missing its magneto, silencer, chain cover, it also had the wrong wheels fitted.
Luckily I also own the remains to G367,(pictured Below), another very early Gem but sadly this on is far to gone to ever restore, but ive been able to
use it for some of the missing parts.
After checking the factory records it was revealed that this example was built on 10/12/1941 and dispatched as part of a pair along
with G207 to Trewartha Gregory & Dolge Ltd in Cornwall (they are still trading today) via LMS goods rail on the 15/12/1941.

As this project is nearing completion Ive decided its finally time to share it. This is one of the reasons why work on G621 has been very slow.
Back in April I spotted this early Howard Gem on ebay, the photos below was all I had to go on. There was no serial number visable, but I
was hopping I was right in thinking it was one of the short gearbox models (the first 400 made had a shorter gearbox and frame due to the
clutch thrust bearing being on the outside rather than submerged in oil.) I made an offer as I felt the buy it now price was to high, and about
15 minutes later my bid was accepted.
 When it arrived back I found the serial number hidden under the rust and was pleasantly suprised to find it was G206, which makes it the
106th Gem ever produced (production started at G101). Ive been researching Gems for many years and prior to this the lowest number I
had seen was G357, so at the present this is the earliest known Gem to exist. Realising how important this example is in the history of
Gem's I decided to press on with the restoration. I will upload the photos as and when I have time over the next few days.

This last week has been really bad. Pain has been so that one to two hours of sleep has been average going on two weeks. On top of that University screwed up the computer system and the federal scholarship money might be delayed until December. I had to take a leave of absence and go to work (Gasp!) until the money comes in. I have a job I started yesterday remodeling a basement, but today I took a personal day. I try and take at least 2-3 personal days a week, if the week was a wee bit longer I would insist on taking up to 4 personal days. After my 2 cups of coffee and milk and a couple of over easy eggs cooked into 2 slices of Wheat bread I made my way to the driveway full of tractors. I had so many different bits and pieces to do on each machine that the morning fog just allowed me for a few hours buzzing from one tractor to another. I got the battery charger on the Massey Ferguson 1450 and drove it about and left it running to charge the dead battery (lol), The drive about loosened the old girl up nicely and she drove like a S class Mercedes. I found my ferrules and completed my lift cable for the Allis 716H and installed the rear upper and lower lift parts and also got the grader blade installed. I put the battery charger on the Simplicity 7016HK and went to work on the two Bolens 1476, but then I saw the 1256 front tire had again gone flat (only on one side), so I removed the wheel and ran the round rasp through it real good and pushed a nice plug through it and reinstalled, so far the plug has held, back to the Bolens. The 1476 with the deck was acting and sounding funny when I raised and lowered the deck and I noticed that when I really got on the gas both tires would break loose and spin like I was off the ground, I was off the ground. Apparently the lift goes to ground level and below. When I lower the the mower deck to its lowest point it will lift the rear end of the tractor completely off the ground, enough for me to change a tire. I need to watch how far I lower the deck! I need to replace a few hair pins and clevis pins with bolts to prevent some of the lift mechanisms getting hung up by hairpins hitting each other. I also had to take the torch (I just like using the torch, even though I always burn myself) to one side of the mower deck front skid as it had been bent down a wee bit; all done and onto the the Bolens 1476 with the tiller. I made a belt guide the other day and that didn't seem to help at all, then today I noticed there was a belt guide missing on the other side as well. I found a 3/16 piece of round stock and threaded an 1-1/2" on one end and cold bent the belt guide end. Well that help a lot, but the rear tines are still moving with the PTO off. These are belts from a supply house, not factory replacement belts, the size is the same, but factory replacements are a matched set of three and made with a special blend of Kevlar and reinforced cord, but those are 50.00 for three, mine were 18.00 delivered. I still think I may have a adjustment problem with the belt guides, PTO spring, or PTO rod; saving that for a another day. The neighbor came over late in the afternoon and had a load of gravel to spread on his drive that the gravel man had brought. He took the Wheel Horse with the box blade and front blade and was not gone 30 minutes and returned with a big smile and 25.00, I didn't take it. I still need to remove my hydraulic valve from the Massey 1650 and add the extra valve so I can have a hydraulic center link to adjust the box blade or plow. The battery charger did its job (90 minutes on a 50 amp charge) and the Simplicity 7016HK fired right up, and after a 10 minute stretch around the drive and yard, she took her place with the herd. I still have the Massey Ferguson MF-16 in the barn, 5 different tractors in various stages of alteration/repair in the shop and 6 more non runners in the barn. I dissembled the Cub Cadet Q40 snow blower and will offer the parts on eBay. Later in the afternoon I went to town and replaced a GFI outlet on a friends porch and I am ready for a bite to eat here at 8:15. More pictures tomorrow or Saturday after a good scrubbing, 

We had a good rain last night so today was the day for burning the pile of limbs from the downed tree from a previous storm, We live on top of the prairie nothing to stop the storms winds
 

nice bit of kit  good idea