Wallfish

wind the spring and keep pulling on the tail to cinch it tighter and smaller. Repeat, repeat, repeat until it's wound tight and will fit in the holder.

Hold the spring down with your thumb at the holder opening and pic out the holder with something sharp. Release the thumb pressure slowly so the spring unwinds slowly

Maybe it's ground a negative wire to the case and the positive post ??? 2 posts are 12v. Do you have a multi meter if it's not in the manual how to achieve the 6v? I breezed through it but didn't see anything. Wish @factory David was still active. He always seemed to have the answers for stuff like this.

I think you would need to remove or disconnect one of the diodes. But I'm not sure. Check in the manual I just posted the link of above Did you receive those diaphragms yet?

? I don't remember ever seeing 6v. Can you post a pic of it? Tiny Tiger Generator Operating Instructions Models 5001-1 & 5001-2.pdf

I meant a pic of all the carb parts but I can probably find one or make a disk and attach it to a diaphragm for you. That little disk would or should be attached right to the diaphragm. It gives a rigid point for the little arm to contact to pulse it and pump gas. Without it, the diaphragm wouldn't have enough movement to pump enough gas. PM your address. (The little envelope icon at the top right of any page) Here's a thread I did a while back on a TT restore if you're interested. I also just pined it so it's on the top of the list and easier to find in the future. The TT generators are the most common O&R tool sold https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1439-tiny-tiger-350-restore/ Do you have this part? Some carbs use this instead of the little disk attached to the diaphragm

Some had a small disk attached to directly to the diaphragm, some did not but had a larger disk part that covered the entire surface. Maybe post a picture of what you have. Depending where you're located, I have diaphragms. The pulse still comes from crank pressure/vacuum. But a 2 stroke uses a reed valve to control it then and it's right through the carb that pulses the diaphragm.

Yes. Anything to hold the rope as long as it gets locked on the spool

The wire needs to be bent in such a way to feed both ends of the wire through the holes from inside of the spool out. The factory pieces resemble 1/2 a paper clip and the wire is kind of soft

With a little bit of fuel in the tank, connect a piece of fuel line to the nipple and blow into it. The one that bubbles the fuel is carb line.

Yes, one nipple will just suck air and the other has a stem to the bottom for fuel pick up

The shape of tank. The line from one side to the other allows air to escape out the top. Otherwise the opposite side from the fill neck would just remain an air bubble on the top without it. So that line allows it to fill all the space so the tank holds more fuel

You can get the 2 sections off without removing that hole plug cover

Better to just remove it and repair the wires as no doubt they are crusty dry and brittle. Remove the rear two sections at once and the wires stay

Interesting. Turbair made them with O&R engines but that's what I believe to be a Japanese knock off engine of an O&R. Very nice find. Yes, it's probably oxidized points contacts preventing the spark. You can find a few threads on the Turbair Tot in the Ohlsson & Rice section Here's mine

Carefully check where that wire was repaired. It's difficult to open that crusty stuff up without cracking more but just go slow. Solder with a solder gun and not a torch Check the other wires too as once you open it up and move them the insulation cracks easy.

The winding wires of the generator without anything connected to them. You should be able to figure out if something is shorted or if the wire is broken and not making a complete circuit. Then you can verify through the AC plug as the wires connect directly to that. Systematic detective work going through each circuit to hunt down where the issue is. It appears there are 2 separate set of windings. One for the AC and the other for the DC. Verify you are connecting the correct wires to each. Was the 12v DC working but not the AC?

That old epoxy is always cracked and brittle so moving the wires can expose the copper wire and cause a "short". Maybe use a meter to confirm the windings are not shorted to each other. Have someone look at this wiring pic for you. It's an open generator with the wiring

I've received them shipped both ways. Full unit in a large box and partially disassembled to fit in a smaller box. Never shipped one of those but i have broken down large tools and shipped in a smaller box. I

No slack at all. the "epoxy" or whatever it is holds and isolates the winding wires. You can pick it out carefully and solder the wire back but be sure to cover it again. Something like liquid electrical tape should work.

You guys should communicate through private message. Use the little envelope button in the top right corner and you can message directly with each other without including everyone else. The forum threads are for sharing information with others but private sales do NOT concern others. Please use PM. I'll delete most of this thread but give you time to figure it privately before doing that.

Here's the recoil rebuild tutorial which might be helpful.

I just use my fingers. Wind a bunch of wraps then pull on it so it tightens up the coil then pinch it tight again and repeat as many times as it takes. The factory new spring retainer is a piece of steel shaped like a C which keeps it tight in a package and makes then easy to install. You can make one out of a 1/8" sliver of 2 inch pipe. I think even PVC pipe would work. Wind the spring by hand, then let it uncoil into the C shaped retainer. That way it can easily be placed into the recoil housing. Then the retainer is removed while holding the spring down in the housing with your thumb. Let it uncoil slowly in the housing until it's tight

Sorry, I did post a pic of the pieces. You should have a 3 piece muffler now so the piece in the center is the spacer and they can be stacked as many as you want

Stack spacers Cone piece on the exhaust collector, spacer, spacer spacer spacer spacer (How ever many you want) then the face piece.