Wallfish

Welcome back Chris! Unfortunately I don't have any 20A parts.

Those parts are original. It's a later model from Advanced Engine Products (AEP) that bought out O&R. It would have had a square recoil that was an improvement to the teardrop housing recoils. The exhaust was a tube that threads onto the manifold and thing they are the only tool with that feature. I have a complete one in an original box that got ruined by mice making a house in the box. Pee and crap all over it.. Think I posted a pic on here somewhere

Thanks. Years of hunting them down The lapidary saw is for cutting rock, stone. Thin diamond blade with a water reservoir below for cooling There never was a count on the different tools. Although I've seen and heard of most, new stuff still pops up every once in a while

Brazing is kind of like soldering, just hotter. It doesn't flow as thin as solder but you can move it around with the heat. Those little torches would work good for stubborn rusty nut and bolt removal too. MIG welding makes things pretty easy and it's not crazy expensive with a small 110v welder using flux core wire to get started. Plenty of instruction videos online for both to get inspired. You're never too old to learn a new skill and you should be able to find more uses for either one beyond this handle fix.

That's not too bad! Just throwing it out there. You can get a small mapp oxy torch for about $100 and braze it. They might even get hot enough to gas weld with steel. We used metal coat hangers for the welding rods back in the day.

Fess up. What did ya pay? Just curious what work like that would go for. You're making some nice progress Correct. It's the kill switch

Best to start a new thread so we don't clutter this carb tutorial thread with other stuff

Add some oil to get about 32:1 but don't use outboard oil. It's different than air cooled oil. Something with the ash and ashless and etc. Always best to run heavier on oil than lean. Haven't fouled a plug yet at 32:1 so... Even at 32:1 you have 1/2 the amount of oil. 50:1 is way to lean on oil for these IMO. It might work but you should know if it doesn't by the bottom of the first tank full. Best to give it a rip and get it all running BEFORE paint. You may need to remove the cover a couple times and noth'n suck worse than scratching up new paint. $0.02

1st question --Assuming you installed a new diaphragm so could be. So start with about a 3/4 -1 turn on out the needle. Use the primer button to keep it running while adjusting if it's stopping because of fuel starvation. Leaking case seals can affect the vacuum pulse pressure the diaphragm uses for the pressure to pump fuel. 2nd question. Not a big deal. The ports are ONLY there to allow fuel to fill up into the raised hump opposite the fuel fill. Without it, an air bubble would stop the fuel from entering that portion of the tank. The fuel line simply connects the 2 ports so fuel doesn't spill out

You can fold and crimp the edges closed too in order to bend it but still need the plate welded on. Circumference of a 10" circle is about 31 1/2 inches and most places sell tube at 36 inches. Good tight crimps on the ends and you can fill it with water which is much easier to empty out. And just another little tid bit. Connecting car batteries in series does work for arc/stick welding. I have a real welder but curiosity got the best of me so had to try it. Not the most safe thing I guess but danger is my middle name! LoL I used 3 batteries but thinking 2 would work with a small thin rod

All of those metal rings go on after the gaskets. The last thing to go on is the O ring which seals the connection of the case and the head. The rest seals the manifold and the head Yup, that check valve bearing should stop gas flow. Something is wrong

Steel Are you getting back on this project? If you have a welder get a longer tube than needed. Weld one end shut and fill the tube with sand then pack it in there. Now weld the open end closed. Now it will bend without crushing or distorting. Cut the ends off and you can remove the sand. Just throwing stuff out there again to see what sticks.

Try connecting fuel line to the tank port that goes to the carb. With fuel 1/2 filled in the tank it should bubble air when you blow into it. Need to verify it's connected to the correct port and that complete fuel line is open and not clogged If it bubbles try directly priming fuel into the carb or pour some in the plug hole so it starts. Watch the fuel line to see if it pulls fuel up now because it's running. <ight need to repeat a couple times

There's a whole section on manuals here in the manual section for IPLs Ohlsson & Rice Compact Operation Instructions May 62 Parts List 9-1-62 Service Directory May 62-1.pdf

Install the gaskets and manifold onto the cylinder head. The rubber type gaskets are 2 different sizes. The one with the larger inside diameter hole goes on the cylinder first. Then manifold, then 2nd gasket, then metal rings, then O ring. Tightened it by hand using a rag for grip, use a tool to get it tighter if needed. Turning the manifold with the cylinder at the same time will get it close to tight

That's a great reference for people to watch before working on their TTs. Lots of useful info! Thanks for posting it Although there were a couple things -- like being more careful with the recoil housing paint. Separate the generator with a piece of wood or something softer than a screwdriver. The two pieces of the generator should be removed together.

LOL You forgot the gas Agreed. Been eyeballing some for rebuild, spruce up etc. It's about time because winter time is O&R time if I get some time this time.

HEY! a Terry sighting on here. Glad to see you posting.

Did it have trouble getting fuel before doing that?

Let me know if you need a diaphragm and or a little plastic check valve. Or there's a guy on ebay that sells them and thing he has some gaskets with it too. There should be 2 gaskets that go between the carb and the engine

Missing the most common stuff that people don't put back on. Air filter and then the air baffles. There should also be a rubber cap cover on the spark plug. Air filter- keep looking on ebay but they go quickly because many are missing The plug cap cover can be made using a product called Plasti-Dip I can search my parts to see if there's an extra air baffle/shroud you will need a new diaphragm for the carb and to give the carb a good thorough cleaning. See the carb tutorial thread.

Yeah, stacking them doesn't do much. Maybe a whole bunch might. The military versions of Amp Champ generators use a regular type muffler

The sections should all fit together just like the original 3 sections do. Some manufacturers even stacked sections from the factory for different reasons so they do stack. Or at least should stack and not be a problem. Make sure they are all lined up. They will distort and deviate and slide if that nut is over tightened to hold them

Which gaskets are you referring to? The orange pieces that get installed between the carb and the engine? Don't run on carb cleaner or any spray stuff. Use some of the oil mixed fuel. Spray stuff doesn't have any lubrication and that's just like running a 4 stroke engine with no oil in it. -First thing to check is the carb. Use a piece of clean fuel line connected to the fuel inlet on the carb. You should not be able to blow air into it unless you push the primer button. Same for suction. If it's leaking there's a problem as the little bearing ball is not sealing the hole. That ball check valves the fuel flow so it only flows in one direction. With leaks, it will just allow fuel to go back and forth and therefore not feed to the carb. If it leaks then you need to clean and follow the carb tutorial to get it to seal. Maybe change the bearing. there were 2 sizes 1/16 and 3/32. Old school local hardware stores may still have some in the "Hillman" drawers -There must be a pliable diaphragm. These small little engines don't produce a lot of pressure and vacuum pulse which is how the diaphragm pulses to actually pump fuel. A stiff diaphragm will not quiver enough from the low pressure/vacuum pulse from the case and therefore not pump fuel or enough fuel if it is stiff. -There should be a small plastic flap check valve installed in between the top diaphragm housing and the bottom carb body. it goes on top of that gasket. The flap covers that small fuel passage hole and also is a check valve to keep fuel only flowing in one direction -Check the screen in the hole of the lower carb body for debris. There was service bulletin to remove those screens if they're present but I typically clean and leave them in there. -Pretty rare to have one of those thick orange gaskets be a problem but funny things happen when people mess with them and don't install them right. There should be 2 between the carb and engine. One side of each should be flat because that's how they mated and the other sides will have the circle indentations form the holes of the carb and engine. They appear the same and originally they were until they were squeezed by installation pressure. Take a close look at them and try to mate them to their original positions. I don't have any new orange gaskets but member @CNew Clint might still have some.

3 of what?