Wallfish

Maybe the engine mounts on that lower bar behind the axle. Also looks like it needs a brake assembly. Maybe something like this but I do not know the size of the axle https://www.ombwarehouse.com/drum-brake-assembly-for-coleman-ct200u-ct200u-ex-mb200.html?setCurrencyId=1&sku=VMC_1742-HUB001-200&msclkid=be931b774abc125132497effdac9c027

This is just a guess as to how the engine mounts and allows for reverse. It's also possible to slide the engine instead of tilting it

The car might be worth more NOT restored but cleaned up and mechanically restored. Fix and repair all the mechanical parts BEFORE painting anything. It's difficult to know from just a few pictures but if there isn't any rot or large damage, keep it with the original paint as much as possible and looking vintage

I believe this gearbox will work for the car. I will also look for a shaft that fits on the end of it for the pulley. Before selling, let's make sure we can get or make all of the parts needed first. I would like to keep the engine for the snowblower -- BUT I will sell it for something like that car, because they are so rare.

I will verify the direction it spins. Maybe that flat on the pulley is used for reverse. Like it's made to contact the rubber ring on the axle because that will make it go in reverse. But the engine mount would need to move in order to engage it. seb T Do you have any engine mounting parts? It appears like that is missing

Thanks for sharing the pics of the car Seb T. That looks like it's in very nice condition for it's age. Can you please post a pic of where the engine mounts? Just want to try and verify how the gearbox shaft should fit because there are several types. I do have an engine with a gearbox that's for a Polaris Power pole snowblower which I believe should work for the car.

I thought that too when I first saw it.But the pulley pictured above appears to be something someone machined. Doubtful there's anything special about it since the gearbox has the centrifugal clutch inside of it. The extension or thickness of it is probably just to fit on the length of the shaft so the shaft doesn't protrude out the end.

Can you share some pictures of your car?

Not sure If I have just the gearbox reducer. Pretty sure I have an engine with one on it. Do you already have an engine? Assume you're from Europe so maybe David @factory might have something to help you For the pulley, you will have to find one or have one made. That is a part specifically from the car

This part?

Post some pics of the tank Carb cleaner, Brake clean Lacquer thinner etc soaking in the bottom of the tank as it could just be the screen filter is clogged from the old gas gum. Swish around every once it a while. Small wire into the tube if that's clogged too but don't bury it as there is a very delicate screen filter on the end. If you can get any flow then I use a bulb type thingy to force wash the cleaner back and forth through it until it clears out. https://www.ebay.com/itm/275523737691?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=7c4ac16ac1301d9eea8ea4785ac465eb

I can supply you with a new diaphragm. $10 each you can email me at uremailing@yahoo.com That's the reason it will only run briefly. Plus you should clean that carb thoroughly. I can probably throw in a pc of fuel line tooo The original fuel caps were a bottle type but have the little flip up spout. I'll try and get a pic.

Check ebay completed listings and that might give you some idea of what people are paying.

I charge $10 each for diaphragms

Difficult to find throttle and cable for that. You're going to have to get creative like using a mini bike throttle kit. That leak is at the governor spring. Fuel shouldn't be passing the little ball bearing check valve in the carb unless the engine is running. When running it shouldn't be leaking because all the fuel is being sucked into the engine to run. You might have to pull the carb apart and clean the bearing and seat real well because it should seal. Or replace that bearing too

Super nice score!!! Is that the same one from the beginning of this thread? Customer for a diaphragm decided to sell?

No, the hole isn't the same and the arm is different. You can switch to a ball type as it will bolt right on to the same carb body

You can buy small line too

You can try soaking it in carb cleaner but new fuel line is fairly cheap

You're not supposed to. The only way to access them is to split the tank open. Thought you had to do this before? All of them are a screen on the bottom of a small cone. Soak with carb cleaner in the tank. Then I use something like this connected with a fuel line to force flush the cleaner back and forth through the screen. Never had to open a tank yet. If the tube is filled with gunk you can use a fine wire to clean most of it out but BE CAREFUL not to poke it through the screen.

Parchment paper is used for cooking/baking Jungle site is Amazon.com

Make your own A circle paper cutter-- search on the jungle site for one Parchment paper is thin like those gaskets

Yes. Disassemble the engine to access the reeds.

Spark should be a sharp snapping blue color. if it isn't, try changing the condenser If it's still hard to turn as mentioned before you should try it with the spark plug out. It should now turn as easy as every other one does. If it's not, there's something binding inside from assembly and you will need to find out what that is and correct it.

After rebuilding engines I know they pull "harder" because of the compression but not crazy hard to pull