Wallfish

Yes, that can be repaired. Did the little hook on the end break? I'm so glad the rivet wasn't drilled off because that's what many do believing it retains the spool. Spring-- The broken end of the spring can be re-shaped. Heat the end of it until it's cherry red. That will remove the brittle "spring" characteristics of the steel and allow it to be bent without breaking it. I will get you a pic of what that bend looks like and it's fairly easy using small needle nose pliers. For best results and smooth operation after repairs the spring should be completely removed from the housing and cleaned by soaking and or wiping the old grease/oil off. Also clean the inside of the housing. Recoiling the spring and getting it back into the housing isn't fun or always easy. It can be recoiled right back into the housing or do the coil first and insert it back into the housing. If doing a bunch of them a retainer can be made from 2" pipe which makes installation much easier. Rope Yes it's retained in the spool with the wire. Remove that old wire and find a short piece of wire about the same size to use. I have used a copper strand from electrical wire because it's soft enough to manipulate to get the ends into those tiny holes. Basically untwist just a single strand of the wire off of the larger twisted wire but anything you can get in there should work. I'll post a pic of what the NOS repair wire looks like before it's inserted into the spool. Once you get that small loop of wire inside the spool you will need to poke the end of the rope through it and pull it through. First, Cut the end of the rope so it has a nice clean edge. Use a cigarette lighter or a match to heat that edge of the rope in order to seal it and keep it from fraying. It will melt and do just a little bit at a time. Just enough to melt the edges of the fibers. Once you melt the edge quickly twist it in your fingers to keep that hardened edge the same or smaller size than the diameter of the rope. Too much melted and it will be too big to fit. This is important for trying to get the edge of the rope through that little loop of the wire. I use a small pick tool to push it and pick it from the opposite side to pull it through. Once you get the rope through the wire loop pull it through enough so you can now heat the edge of the rope again. This time melt the edge of the rope so it creates a hardened edge that's bigger than the diameter of the rope. This hardened bulge on the end of the rope will prevent it from ever pulling through the retaining wire once that wire is cinched down. Now pull the retaining wire tails so the loop is just snug to the rope. Then pull the rope back through so that little bulge you created is almost snug to the retaining wire loop. Using pliers pull and twist the 2 tails of that retaining wire to lock the rope to the spool. Be careful not to twist too tight and break that wire or you need to start all over, but it does need to be tight to hold the rope so it has no movement at all. It's a very fine line between breaking the wire and having tight enough. Best to go 1/2 twist at a time once it's close to being tight. Once it's twisted tight and the rope is locked to the spool, cut the twisted wire tail off. Leave about 1/8 inch long of twisted wire Then bend over that twisted tail so it fits down below the indent of the spool. Bend it to the right and the opposite way it is shown bent over in your pic but I'm not sure it makes a difference. That's how the originals are done so I just follow that. Wind the rope onto the spool. You will need to cut the knot off that retains the handle and heat the end just like before to stop the fray of fibers but keep it small enough to fit back through the handle hole. ( There should be a spring inside that type of handle) Just a hole in the newer ball type Feed the end of the rope, after it's spooled up, through one of the openings in the spool with about 3 inches or so protruding out. This will allow the spool to be installed without interfering with the edge of the housing, Insert the spool over the bearing and back into the housing. That little slot on the bottom of the spool must catch the spring and that's why it's important to have that spring bent and properly positioned. It should look just like your pic but it must have the bend in it to catch the spool. There can not be any other part of the spring touching or protruding out from the bearing which would prevent the spool from sliding all the way down and the slot catching the spring. Once the spool is down in place and caught on the spring, use that tail of the rope that's protruding up to spin the spool counter clockwise. Usually it's about 3-4 revolutions to create enough spring tension on it to recoil. Hold the tension on the spool with your thumb when the rope tail is at the top and at the location it goes through the housing and up to the handle stop. Now feed the tail of the rope back through the spool edge and out to the front of the housing. Grab it and feed the rope up through the hole in the handle stop. This is a good time to test the action of the recoil and verify everything is working properly but hold that rope tight. Pull and release the rope quite a few times to get that spring to settle in it's proper place. It should pull and retract with ease and have enough tension that it recoils all the way in. Once you are happy with the performance, tie a loose quick release knot about 6-8 inches down on the rope. This will prevent it from spooling back in while you work on the handle. Send the rope end through the little spacer first, then through the handle and then through the handle spring if there is one. One end of the spring is smaller than the other so that end is the top where the knot will hold and retain the handle. That's all there is to it! Definitely not the easiest thing for the first time doing it This may be a good opportunity and time to make a completely new Recoil Repair Tutorial thread for others to follow as well. It's something I've been meaning to do for a while now. I'll get some stuff together and do one with pics and maybe some video to help explain things. These are NOT that fun to work with and it's one of my least favorite things to work on as they can be frustrating when starting out and doing one for the first time. Much of what was written is is easier said than done and it's a learning curve for sure. They do get much easier to do the more that are done but most people don't have a large collection and just need one or two done. Just don't smash it with a hammer under the frustration! LOL NOS recoil spring bend for center. Notice the tail curves a little. That's to keep it inside the indent of the center bearing That's how they come NOS, in that retainer which makes them fairly easy to install. They can be done without the retainer as well.. but use your thumb to control the unwind speed so it's slow Here's a retainer made from 2 inch pipe

Me either. Let me know if you want any more pics. You can see in the pics it was leaking but there wasn't a small paper ring gasket installed to seal it to the case I have a few Octura built water cooled head engines. Haven't been through them all yet but I'm gonna look now. I'm thinking this valve better belongs in one of those instead of a generator.

Upon opening the engine I saw this. A strange valve setup so I stared at it a bit confused as I can't recall ever seeing this before and was also questioning my memory. Well, as it turns out it's one of those rare and coveted Octura made valves. Strange that it would be on a TT 400 but maybe they ordered them for manufacturing these???? Maybe David @factory might have some insight on this. Unfortunately there's no model number stamped into it and the air baffle is a clean one so obviously changed.

This unit was cleaned up before but never completely disassembled and gone through. Now super glad I did which I'll share later. It wasn't easy to figure out how to remove the gen head and by the appearance of those slotted screws on the sides of it , neither could the last guy! Those slotted screws hold the magnets to the case. These gen head parts are unlike the 300 or 350 models where the magnet spins and the coils are stationary. The 400 spins the coils and the magnets are stationary so it utilizes carbon brushes and a commutator like a regular brush motor. Finally figured out how to separate the parts. So --- the cap on the rear cover below the plug outlet needs to be removed (easier said than done) in order to access the screw head retaining it. It's a taper fit to the shaft just like the flywheel so loosen the screw slightly and tap the head of it with a hammer to break the taper bond.

TT 400. No where near as common as the 300 or 350 are. Pulled this one out to copy the base for the earlier 300 but now it's going to be the next one up for a rebuild too.

Thanks! Might try again to get the connection ends for the screw better. IDK They do go quicker once you do a couple and don't drop the roller bearings! I use the magnet of the flywheel to find them! LOL Also use it to hold them so they don't escape by accident. That flashing is thin enough to cut with the blade type paper cutter to keep the edge straight and perfect the entire length. The paper cutter was bought for accurately cutting that thin spring steel sheet for making those tiny carb springs. ( Of which I need to make more of now) Works well for some gaskets and other stuff too when you want or need a nice straight cut. The flashing could also be cut with a straight edge and a razor knife to score it then bend it to break it off but the edges don't come out quite as clean.

David @factory might be able to help you since he's much closer. Good recoil assemblies are something I'm short on for the engines I have. Many come ruined or missing on used engines. They do pop up on ebay every once in a while but they usually sell quick if it's a reasonable price. But I do have some NOS and used springs. The springs can be changed. Please don't drill out the rivet to remove the spool if you haven't already. The spool will come off by pulling and twisting it but later models do have a retaining clip deep inside there which is difficult to see. We can help you on how to repair the recoil you have and it's also possible to rework the existing spring depending upon it's condition. If the rivet was drilled, that can also be repaired. If you can post some pics of your recoil that might help to determine if it's salvageable.

A piece of aluminum flashing cut to size, folded on the edges for some strength and a screw to cinch it tight worked well. The flaps and screw don't look as nice as the latch thingy they used but once it's on the base it'll barely be visible anyway. Not sure about the shine of it so might dull it down a bit so it doesn't look out of place on there. Just need to cut a thicker piece of aluminum sheet for the base of which I do have a large piece of. Rebuilding engines is is going good so far as I'm up to 6 done. These 5 plus the Amp Champ.

Type G engine rebuilt. New rings seals etc along with the gear box and a new seal in that. Ran out of good recoils and air baffles This had originally came with a weird rubber paddle fan attached so I put it back on

Actually 3300 rpm It's a Model G gearbox. Not common Yes, the metal strap Ohlsson & Rice Compact Industrial Engines Gear Cases Mar 1964-1.pdf

Ha, that's what happens when others get active and start posting stuff huh? Just get started as that' seems to be the toughest hurdle. Grabbed a box of more stuff. Found one of the 1600 rpm gearboxes attached to a parts engine. so might do that engine after inspecting it. IDK Has anyone made a new band for a TT generator? Need to make one and cut out a base for it too.

We texted today about it and I mentioned a couple others might be interested in them too so he said he could make a template so they all come out the same. Once perfected it will be easier and faster to make them.

Thanks! Has the flat on the side of the shaft like a chainsaw. I got plenty of those

Found a TT generator with just an engine attached. So one of these newly rebuilt engines will go with the gen head and there's a spare tank out there. Probably need to make a base for it though. Forgot to take a beginning pic but this thing was nasty and covered with crud. Fixed wiring, inserted new AC plug and got'er all cleaned up so far. I'll rebuild that original engine too.

Well, I must've already went through this engine or it has had very little use because the compression felt when pulling it over is about as hard as the recently rebuilt engines. Do enough of these and you can easily feel the difference between a worn engine and a new one. If there's any doubt, then it's in the middle and new set of rings will typically take care of it. Clean up and new recoil string is probably going to be about it but I'll give it the balloon leak down test for checking the seals. The lower unit gears and seals were gone through when I got it but honestly do not remember ever removing the engine on this

There's an Aqua Bug outboard out there that had no plastic cover or tank when it was bought so I added a drillgine type tank. Those outboards actually look more old school cool without the cover and that one always got attention when taken to the shows for display. Probably because everything is visible. Think I'll start with that one and pull it apart and rebuild or replace that engine. Maybe then a Mini Motor and another Aqua Bug I also have a rare Polaris Power Pole outboard still sitting in a box and all parts from shipping. It's the same tool/engine that @Laserscottman had when he made the famous carb tutorial thread years back. Can't remember how deep he went into it but think he went through everything on it except for actually rebuilding the engine. Work is a bit slow this year so might as well stay on a roll getting some O&R stuff done that's been on the back burner for too many years.

I'd have to figure it out. Like change engines on a Drillgine or TT. The cranks don't have the slots in the little taper so it's more limited otherwise I could do a circular saw. Plus some of the tools are the early style engines so the coils are different. Don't think I have any tools that don't have engines on them so might just rebuild some of those that haven't been done yet and keep these as spares. Do you happen to know what crank end type was used for the outboards? I'd have no problem swapping engines on those if the crank is right.

My neighbor across the street said he would give it go to make some. Let me know if anyone wants any

I'll need to do something. Wondering if one of those Octura carbs will work with gasoline. That would make for a quick easy setup for the carb test stand

Only Jan and already got 4 engines rebuilt so far this winter. The Amp Champ in the other thread is done, the snow blower gearbox engine in this thread, plus these other 2 in the pic with the blower engine. The guy across the street is going to spin up some of the recoil handles on his wood lathe. So now it's time to start putting these rebuilt engines on some tools and then get started rebuilding those engines or I might keep those tool engines together with the tools. IDK yet

I have a couple of the newer ball type handles The guy across the street has a wood lathe so I'll see what I can do.

Yes. But for $25 I'd rather spin one with my fingers and cut it with my teeth.LOL

Does anyone have any extra older style recoil handles for sale or trade?

I'll only put some fuel into the plug hole just to fire them off once they're rebuilt but haven't done it yet. Maybe I should consider making a test stand with a remote carb setup kind of like a Turbair Tot uses. Test run them then drop a new carb top on afterwards. Just looked a bit deeper into the NOS stash parts and found 8 more sets of rings, some rods and a few other items so I'm going to rebuild some more. I have a bunch of NOS crank seals too but I don't have any new pistons so hopefully I find good pistons when opening them. Most are fine and I've yet to find any that have bad or worn bearings when opening them up for rebuild. I don't pick the engines that are beat on and clearly past their prime for doing rebuilds and just use those engines for parts and hardware etc.

guess it would help to put the gas tank on. ooops! Good thing I looked at the pic on the screen