Wallfish

HEY! a Terry sighting on here. Glad to see you posting.

Did it have trouble getting fuel before doing that?

Let me know if you need a diaphragm and or a little plastic check valve. Or there's a guy on ebay that sells them and thing he has some gaskets with it too. There should be 2 gaskets that go between the carb and the engine

Missing the most common stuff that people don't put back on. Air filter and then the air baffles. There should also be a rubber cap cover on the spark plug. Air filter- keep looking on ebay but they go quickly because many are missing The plug cap cover can be made using a product called Plasti-Dip I can search my parts to see if there's an extra air baffle/shroud you will need a new diaphragm for the carb and to give the carb a good thorough cleaning. See the carb tutorial thread.

Yeah, stacking them doesn't do much. Maybe a whole bunch might. The military versions of Amp Champ generators use a regular type muffler

The sections should all fit together just like the original 3 sections do. Some manufacturers even stacked sections from the factory for different reasons so they do stack. Or at least should stack and not be a problem. Make sure they are all lined up. They will distort and deviate and slide if that nut is over tightened to hold them

Which gaskets are you referring to? The orange pieces that get installed between the carb and the engine? Don't run on carb cleaner or any spray stuff. Use some of the oil mixed fuel. Spray stuff doesn't have any lubrication and that's just like running a 4 stroke engine with no oil in it. -First thing to check is the carb. Use a piece of clean fuel line connected to the fuel inlet on the carb. You should not be able to blow air into it unless you push the primer button. Same for suction. If it's leaking there's a problem as the little bearing ball is not sealing the hole. That ball check valves the fuel flow so it only flows in one direction. With leaks, it will just allow fuel to go back and forth and therefore not feed to the carb. If it leaks then you need to clean and follow the carb tutorial to get it to seal. Maybe change the bearing. there were 2 sizes 1/16 and 3/32. Old school local hardware stores may still have some in the "Hillman" drawers -There must be a pliable diaphragm. These small little engines don't produce a lot of pressure and vacuum pulse which is how the diaphragm pulses to actually pump fuel. A stiff diaphragm will not quiver enough from the low pressure/vacuum pulse from the case and therefore not pump fuel or enough fuel if it is stiff. -There should be a small plastic flap check valve installed in between the top diaphragm housing and the bottom carb body. it goes on top of that gasket. The flap covers that small fuel passage hole and also is a check valve to keep fuel only flowing in one direction -Check the screen in the hole of the lower carb body for debris. There was service bulletin to remove those screens if they're present but I typically clean and leave them in there. -Pretty rare to have one of those thick orange gaskets be a problem but funny things happen when people mess with them and don't install them right. There should be 2 between the carb and engine. One side of each should be flat because that's how they mated and the other sides will have the circle indentations form the holes of the carb and engine. They appear the same and originally they were until they were squeezed by installation pressure. Take a close look at them and try to mate them to their original positions. I don't have any new orange gaskets but member @CNew Clint might still have some.

3 of what?

Different people call things different. To me, not turning over means the engine will not spin. Yes, the primer button should move fuel into the carb. There's lots of reasons why it wouldn't but a new diaphragm will help. Go through this carb tutorial post too Do you mean it will not start or it will not turn over

Yes. There was a change somewhere along the line for the starter pawls though. Mufflers are typically 3 pieces. Adding center sections need no adapters but you're right, the bolt/hook needs to be longer as well. Not sure how many of those center sections it would take to make a difference

Yes, clean the post and the copper points spring for that connection. All wire connections too. It's not common for a coil to fail unless damaged but it's possible. Condenser is a possibility. I also tap the nut on the shaft to remove flywheels

If it's the flywheel side seal, that metal ring seal retainer pops off. The seal may be attached to the ring. Lightly tap it off

Best to just leave the tube and screen filter in place. Blast some spray carb cleaner down through the hole to backwash it out

I know on my bigger engines, Kohler 8-10-12 hp etc, they will idle with a bad condenser but die right out once you try to throttle them up. Slow rolling loss of spark like that is a new one me

It's more rare to have a coil crap out on these engines than a condenser. Speed shouldn't matter too much but I don't know what you consider slow. I do know you can spin the flywheel by hand with the starter housing off, plug out and get a nice sharp blue spark. That's what my shop's plug tester is. Yes, that sounds like fuel delivery problem like the seals but it's also running at lower rpm. That engine should scream at 6300 rpm. Also check the governor spring on the bottom of the carb

Not yet. Leave at 6 get home at 5:30-6. I'll have time later this week

One way to check the seals on the case is to remove the carb Block that hole in the case with a rubber stopper remove the muffler Blow up a balloon and put it on the exhaust collector (you can hold the carb hole with your thumb too) The balloon will leak down. Fast and the seals are leaking and sometimes you can even hear the air coming out They will all leak down but very bad seals will go quicker There's no exact amount of time it should be. There are way too many variables to consider this real science but it does give you an idea of what's going on. Much easier to understand when you have many engines like I do but if you do the balloon test before doing the brake fluid, then do it right after (the oil will seal them) then do it again after it was running for a bit. That will tell you if the brake fluid swelled the seals. Tiny Tigers are tougher because you have to remove the generator head to get to that side seal. I've thought about just pouring some in the carb hole with the spark out and just puling it over slowly to wet the seals with it from the inside. It's something I would do with one of my engines but I haven't done it and don't know if doing that could have some ill effects on the engine. I'm no engineer scientist so don't know but I'm guessing the the fuel would just quickly wash it out. The engine will smoke a bit until it does.

I've had an old bottle of that stuff around for years. Old enough the label is worn off How about this? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-DOT-3-Brake-Fluid-12-oz/16821275?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222222000000000&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=16821275_0&wl14=brake fluid&veh=sem&msclkid=fc2bd284637c172775d6b1f930288b64&gclid=fc2bd284637c172775d6b1f930288b64&gclsrc=3p.ds No, they're not the same.

There are NOS parts out there but seals are very hard to find. Try the brake fluid and that will tell you if the seals are the problem and / or if you need new seals

The one under the flywheel has a metal ring holding it. Simply tap pry pull off that that metal ring. The other side, remove the induction section and pick it out from the shaft end side. You might be able to just pick it out with the induction section in place. Both seals were installed from the outside of the case You can pull the seals out of your engine and measure them yourself is the best way and try and find replacements or search ebay and the net. As stated before they will be very difficult to find as NOS seals. Once they're damaged you will be SOL and just turned that engine into a brick unless you can find new seals. Or put new O rings in there if you want to try that. Is there any particular reason why you don't want to even try the brake fluid as suggested??? Create a Youtube account if you don't have one and upload the video to Youtube. Then you can post the link to that video on here and we can watch/see it

They're very difficult to find. you won't find an "off the shelf" replacement as far as I'm aware That's why I suggested using the brake fluid to help swell them. Give it a try, nothing to loose

Do you have some?

The points pin where the spring sits on is short and shouldn't be tall enough to touch the cover. The points spring needs to be in contact with the pin as that's the transfer of the connection to the pin and the condenser. Make sure that connection is clean. Clean the post and the spring. A cause of running erratic is typically the case seals. Leaking seals will affect the vacuum/pressure pulse pressure of the carb diaphragm and that's how the diaphragm moves to pump fuel. When fuel is pumped erratically it will run erratically and no adjustment to the carb is going to fix that. Clean ALL the points connections Add a few drops of DOT3 brake fluid (Not synthetic ) to each of the crankshaft seals with them still in place on the engine. Let it sit at least over night. Brake fluid swells the rubber and most times will be enough to seal the crank. There are other little O ring seals at the points push rod and the one screw for the carb. If they are missing it will cause a big leak Bent or damaged carb to case gaskets can do the same thing

Yes Here's a thread where I did a refresh on one

Since you had it running it might be safe to assume the carb is complete. What you need is a new diaphragm I have new diaphragms. Send me a PM There's a pinned thread on the carbs so have a look