Anglo Traction

Hi, Afraid I'm not familiar with the older 21s, only the Osprey version. Others may know more?. With the friction linings delaminated from the plate(s), it is not easy to assess if they should be the same as the Osprey. On the Osprey, the linings are bonded either side of the Gear Sprocket for the plates to engage either side when drive is required. Once you have ascertained that, you have the option of obtaining the friction lining and carefully cutting them to shape and bonding with either original Araldite or your JB weld. Alternatively, you can contact Auto & Industrial and they will probably produce and bond the linings for you. The driver plate (keyed) and the driven plate (wheel side) should be able to be cleaned up ok. The adjustment of your set up should be as you describe with just a tad of clearance between the plate face and the radial bearing face when the clutch is not engaged. Although it is for the Osprey primarily, there is another well used Topic in the Other Garden Machines section on this Forum with images of the clutch parts to compare. Let us know how you get on and resolved the issies, as it will help others. Regards

Yep, I'll make that a priority when finished Nigel. Bit of side line work after fitting the middle section to the chassis. I thought about the starting rope/handle and decided to provide a stowage point. I was able to utilise the 2- 1950s 30mm Aden Cannon Cartridges as containers, drilling out the percussion caps in the bases, so I could fix them in place with 1/4" Whitworth brass c/sunk screws. Made the caps out of Nickel Silver sheet a smooth push fit. I then thought about using old coins to finish the caps off. My Museum Curator where I do volunteer work used to be a Bank Manager and found a batch of unused 1 penny coins from 1967 that missed the melt back in 1971 after decimalisation, so in mint condition and he gave me some. Shown here soldered in place- And finished with heavy coat of lacquer ready to fit- So the cap with the 'Tails' side up carries the rope, and the 'Heads' carries the handle- Regards

Hope all's well Ewan. Clutch lever done and fitted. Cable was a B+*^h. Very tight job making it up from stainless inner cable and outer sleeve. Nipples made and silver soldered. Managed to retain lots of adjustment take-up on both tensioners- This section is now ready to go on the chassis. Still bugged with decision about fitting tensioner adjustment on the output chain drive?. Regards.

Afraid your engine is a bit new for my knowledge, but when these are fitted to applications like Generators, Pumps and Mixers, they're usually governed to 3000rpm either by centrifugal driven gear/lever rod, or air deflection (pneumatic) via the fan housing. All I can offer is a link to the Briggs Online Manuals download page for your engine model. The page shows the Engine Manual and Illustrated parts list (near bottom of the page). It's then just a matter of searching them for comparisons to your model to see if any parts are missing. You don't say if you have only just aquired this, or had it long time?. Anyway, here is a link- Briggs 092232 0141 Let us know how you get on, as may help someone else. Regards

Slow progress, but now have a finished rolling chassis that I can assemble the important bits on. Engine was the first bit to go on- Still working on the chain drive and guards on the pump side, with the 'idler'- tensioner set up being the current challenge to design and fit- Clutch Lever has been a problem, but have now finalised the handle shape and will be cut from 10mm thick block of brass. Will also have a lock lever fitted- Lots going on with other things, but will try and improve update regularity. Regards

Only chance may be to send Rayp a personal message, he may well have replaced them on his machines and remember the bearing numbers. He last visited this Forum (signed in) in June, so may not be aware of your dilemma. Last inevitable resort will be to dismantle and read the numbers or measure accurately the dimensions (this what I would do in case the wrong bearings are suggested). The spindle should tap out gently (ensuring the nut is in place before hitting it). You may need a puller/press to remove/insert the bearings.

It's a version of the basic engine design that may serve several applications. You could find that engine spec example on a Generator set. I would stick to traditional mineral based 30 weight Oils like Castrol XL. Many of these older engines are not suited to modern oils. Look's also that you are reasonably familiar with Kohler engines If possible, it is prefereable to provide images of issues and problems you have with this 'project'. Many who view a Topic may not be familiar with the machine type/model, but may well offer methods of dealing with the issues etc. If you can keep the image resolution to about 900kb, a standard membership image allowance will let you post more of them. Supporter Membership is unlimited.

Engine is 1972 model. The 'P' stands for `pump version !. The 'T' stands for retractable pull start. Kohler Engine Workshop Manual and parts list can be found by online searching, as can the parts list. Oxford Allen manuals also online and some parts still available via - Villiersparts

Making slow progress, hence the belated update. Have been painting, varnishing and making Nuts n Bolts. Sorted the drive chain link problem, so now making up the chain guard wth brackets- Ensuring clearances and fixing points were ok. 2 more lower brackets to make and I can move on to the clutch lever and outer cable fitting. Wheels are now shiney black gloss. Regards

Unusual design!. it's based on the Archemedian principle. A bit of searchng Hose manufacturers may well produce what you need. One point about these is that with rubber involved, there needs to be a method of priming with water etc prior to starting up from a dry condition. As for makers info, It may be worth enquiring with the company. Yes, it look's like they are still in business. Here's a link to their 'Timeline' on their website- MONO PUMPS Ltd Good luck. Regards

Hi and welcome,. Looks like a good project. I include a link to a topic on this Forum that is for the same unit, but for a Generator, so the Pump Brand will likely need to be researched separately. Good luck with the project and let us see your progress on it. -LINK- Regards.

Thanks Alan, Been preoccupied with lots of small jobs and pulling together two of the three sections of this project. The middle section (reduction gear unit) has taken a lot of time and work, as it includes the fuel tanks. They are finished, lacquered, mounted and the fuel gauge nestles between them- Still incomplete middle section where I have to make up the cable and lever system for operating the clutch/brake shoes. The last job will be to fill the Reduction gear unit with oil - All the brass/bronze work has been polished and lacquered as assembly progressed, with the exception of the engine cowling, as I now have some clear gloss VHT Lacquer for that. output/fan drive sprocket modified to fit onto a woodruf key and locked in place with a grub screw Finalised the location of the modified throttle lever and cable route, which keeps it neat, tidy and handy location. Lever and cable joints are watertight. Although I will have to change the Carb Air inlet and Choke layout to prevent water ingress- Tempted to start the engine for a run soon to check how it sounds with the exhaust. Has a lovely bright blue spark at the plug and the timing is spot on. Mahogany planks being treated prior to fitting and will be yacht varnished after. Pump drive and location of it is a bit of a headache, but working on it- Regards.

Ok, I've just checked the part nbrs for the engine spec you quoted and the 7hp Osprey spec I worked on and the part numbers are identical (was 260609, now 492476). This was the basic crank for that size engine, so may not be so difficult to find one.

Hi Ray, I'll keep an eye out on the stock down at the Museum and if anything comes in. Last resort, but could it be possible to turn an extension for the C'shaft?.

Well, later than planned, I've made much progress on the fuel tanks and the mounts. Still more copper tapping to final size, but nearly there with both tanks. Reserve fuel tap mounting boss finished and light press fit ready for silver soldering shown here- Have been making the straps, platforms and retaining rings., the latter from 1/4' x 1/4" x 1/16" brass angle. cut, bent and silver soldered to produce 18 sided rings- Eventually the concept in my head and on paper materialised into this - Pleased with the strength and rigidity on the base and supports for the tanks (the lines drawn on the copper parts are for more dressing out of irregularities for a better fit. A little fettling of the fit around the upper cradles/straps. Working on the Fuel Gauge parts at the moment. Will then return to the reduction gear unit and final location of it on the chassis

Hello Derren, Welcome. The Flywheel retaining nut is 'Captive'. To avoid strain to the crankshaft, it is best to use a strap around the outer diameter of the flywheel to prevent rotation while undoing the nut. The nut should be 13/16" A/F. Once it initially loosens, it will tighten again. This is when the nut flange runs against the internal face of the flywheel and further undoing of the nut will force the flywheel off the crankshaft taper. A simple, but effective design and prevents the flywheel jumping off. An example of the torneque method of binding rope around the flywheel with a piece of wood to twist/tighten it and brace against the 'undo' force is shown in an image toward the bottom of the first page of my mower thread here- -LINK- Regards. Richard.

Ok, yours is probably a bit older than mine. It has the square headed lock screw on the base collar to retain the column. There's probably one holding the handwheel on as well. Mine are hex socket grub screws. they are all whitworth form threads. I see you have the upper 3/8" dia spindle section !. It may be worth measuring it and compare it to my given dimension, There should be about 1 1/4" of 3/8" whitworth thread at the top and the nut should be of the Locking type (like an old version of nylock) I'll check my scrap bin again, as it was the top section of the `spindle' that I cut off and used. There is also the stop collar missing which measures 43.4mm x 42.32mm diameter and 3/4" bore, it also acts as a weight to assist feed rate. It all looks salvageable, even welding up the drill holes in the base.

Slow progress lately. Have been pondering over the tank mounting design, but reckon I've found the answer. The cooling fan assembly is now finished and the brass support plates nearly finished- Just finished welding up the Reduction Gear mounting, so can start on prep for painting. Still working on Reserve tank hammering copper before I can finalise the mountings. Fuel tank support mounts shown in this image- Hopefully won't be too long before next update. Regards

Hello John, Sorry for the slow response. The spindle is in 2 pieces, the lower length 7. 1/2" (190mm) x 3/4" dia (19.05mm). The upper section 7. 5/8" ( 193mm) and is 3/8" dia. this upper piece is press fitted into the lower section and pinned with a 1/8" dia dowel. So it would need to be longer to account for the fit overlap if you're making one. The milled keyway, as mentioned was reduced to about 3. 1/2" (89mm) to allow for increased bearing surface in the lower bearing (body casting). The thrust bearing has 2 sections of 1'" dia (25.4mm) x 3/16" (4.75mm) with races machined in both to accommodate 5/32" ball bearings, then hardened/tempered I believe the original chucks were knurled for hand tightening, but mine had been changed/bodged. The colour was made up/matched by myself using good quality enamels. Hope this helps. Regards

One of those red wires (likely the sleeved one) is possibly the coil earth IF the coil winding wrap is insulated from the soft iron laminated coil plate?. If so, then the other red wire is from the coil's primary winding and services the breaker points. The issue with the image references is the 3rd image that shows the COM lead point contacting the insulated half of the breaker point which is open, But you don't show or say where the Red 'V' lead point is contacting!. I see that the smaller red wire is (presumably) spliced into the (black) condenser wire. You should isolate the condenser from that lead if you want to test the resistance of the primary winding, which if ok will give you a resistance reading of approx 2 to 2.5. I don't have the actual value. That test should be:- Red point on the wire from the primary winding and the black COM point to an earth point. Keep at it. I presume the magnet(s) in the flywheel are still strong enough to produce a spark?. It's many years since i messed with one of these, I can't remember if the flywheel is 'Keyed" for fixed timing, or requires setting up. Wristpin is the man you need. Hopefully he will look in. Regards

Hello David, Welcome. Hopefully you will have success in your research of Conyers. I have seen several products with their name from the 60s>. Your engine is a Briggs and Stratton, possibly 3hp , or even 4hp. You can obtain all the parts lists and opersting manuals based on the Model, Spec and Serial numbers stamped into the engine cowling right next to the Governor adjusting screw/Rod behind the Air Filter in your posted image. I refurbished a '72' Genset some years back with the same engine and it's progress was logged in this section of the forum. If it is of any help, here is a link- 72 Genset If you need any help with the engine, just post it here. Afraid I can't help with the generating part, as I'm not familiar with it. Regards.

Finished making the (12) 6BA Bronze bolts and brass nuts for the Fan Shaft bearing/grease point housings over the last weekend and now trial assembled on the unit. All good-

Many thanks for the comments. Sorry for being quiet for a while. Have been busy when able. Lots of decision making on design and machine time, but seem to produce little visually. The Tank Cartridges were set up for drilling and tapping. Had to obtain a metre of 10mm studding to make the fixings, as they're quite tall- Luckily the igniter percussion inserts drilled out ok, then tapped both bases 1/8"BSP for the fittings. The fuel taps were done as per previous post, so then just the Air Valve to design and make. Shown in next image on the left- The left one shows the top of the reserve tank and the right shows the base of the main tank. Next job was the fan shaft layout, bearing housings and 'Screw Down Grease Cups'. I had the latter vintage cups, but had to make the housings for them out of cast bronze bar. Made a lot of work for myself milling to shape just to form the platforms to screw the cups into- Finished them on the lathe so that I could fit a short piece of brass tube between them as a seal against water ingress- Cheated a bit with these, as I'm hard soldering them to large flat brass washers to make the flange for bolting through and will match (in size, not colour) the ball bearing housings also machined from solid- So here is the basic assembly/layout of the fan shaft and now about to start on the sprocket mount and fan/blades- Regards

Finished the Fuel Taps. Lots of different set-ups and operations required. Did much of the work while still part of the parent brass rod. Cross drilling 3/8"(9.55mm)- I wanted the tap levers opposed to eachother for access (in the off position), so had to be careful when it came to drilling through with the tapered plugs fitted- . The Tap's cam limit plates had to be soldered together, then to a stub of brass for machining to shape using a rotary table- When as much work as possible was done, I cut them away from the parent bar and 'Silver Soldered' the pipe connection rods to the Tap bodies. All the fiitings are for 3/16" (4.75mm) copper pipe. The tap tapers are 'pulled in' using the correct 'Thackery' coil spring washers and provides just the right amount of resistance- A light polish and just need proper 1/16" Split (cotter) Pins to finish off. Maybe blend the joints. Happy with this first time job for me. Regards

Not a lot of progress, what with the cold spell of the last 3 weeks. Confined myself in the warmer environment of the Lounge. Too cold in the workshop. Have been designing and drawing up the Fuel fittings I require. Nothing 'off the shelf' will suit, so making my own and using a 1950s ATCO Pet Cock as a guide (shown on the right). Got some Lathe time in over last few days and started turning up a Taper Reamer blank, then a first Pet Cock plug at the same settings. Got to produce several of these so I have a stock. The taper angle is 7 degrees inclusive . The little levers that screw into the plug are threaded 5/32" Whitworth, so making them the same - Had to keep to Imperial, not easy to mix metric on these, plus I have been asked to reproduce an old Pet Cock style for a restoration. Ready to part off the finished plug from the rod and make the next one now. The reamer blank is next to finish machining the cutting edges, then harden, temper and hone. Quite pleased really, as the new plug actually fits perfectly in the old tap body, so I got the angle right. Regards.