Anglo Traction

Only just spotted this post. Assuming you are in the UK?, have you tried the Stationary Engine Forum?. Obviously you will to register, but there is a good chance someone on there could help you. Here is a -LINK-

Had an opportunity to obtain this Sprayer in exchange for a contribution to a Charity. It was in a sad state after being exposed to sun light and temperature extremes for many years. The all important nozzle was missing, a large dent in the base and the wooden handles were very dry and cracked with shrinkage. Solid Brass and riveted/soldered joints, the item weighs 2.060 kgs dry. Fortunately, the Museum Curator had another near complete example, so I was able to borrow the nozzle parts for reproduction. Found the thread form was 1/8" BSP parallel, but several thousanths of an inch under size!. The main nozzle part wasn't difficult to produce, but had to make a reamer to form the minute taper of the outlet and produced the atomiser/restricter which was complicated- The Air Pump leather washer was tired and still fairly good, but made a new one from slightly thicker raw leather - Thie plunger is obviously tighter, but needs to relax and bed in and is easing with use. Being a pressure vessel, the control tap and pressure relief valve are all clean a working well- The hardwood plunger handle was so dry, it soaked up 20ml of raw linseed oil on the first feed. Another 5ml satified it's thirst and the cracks slowly closed up over a week. All back together and waiting for an acid, then soap, then soda washout, the latter to neutralise the ph level to 7.- Ignore the extra 'Thumb Nut' on the back of the horizontal handle, it is one I made for the museum example that was missing it. Bit of ageing and it will merge in well. My example may well be a 'Suds Pump' cutting oil feed for my Myford to save on electricity. So, a very nice piece of early 1950s quality re purposed. Regards

I've been designing/making several parts over the last month. decided to go for rope pull start on the engine, simpler job and I could use an old pulley that was used originally on the 'Yellow Mower Challenge ATCO' back in around 1959. The pulley is a 4" Picador with angled slots cut in and filed for the rope knotted end. I had to make the brass retaining bolt once I'd identified the flywheel nut thread form (9/16" x 20tpi BSC). It is fairly quick to remove to gain access to the ignition points/mag- The mahogany bumper blocks were added so as to allow a short overhang of the pulley/flywheel and puts the engine/mount centre line over the rear axle. The finished engine mount has some embelishments added in the form of brass straps- Working on the fuel tanks stand/mount presently and have finished bashing the copper to shape for the top of the main fuel tank. In the end, I used a highly polished 'Tow Bar' Ball unit as a 'Dolly' to form the copper shape - I have more work to do on it before soldering up and make the reserve tank. Reduction gear mounts next and the drive etc for the cooling fan. Regards

Well done sir!. Look's like you have enough there to produce some good projects. The Myford254 is a good machine. Regards. Richard

Thanks, hope all's well Ewan. A large void on here now without Norm Reached a point where there's lots of jobs that don't immediately produce finished parts. Lots of 'jigging' mounts that locate exactly where I want them prior to welding up. Managed to prime the chassis frame and black paint the underside. More holes to drill yet, so left it at that stage. Turned to fuel tanks and the mounting thereof. Lots of hammering/annealing of copper to form the bullet shape to fit onto the shell cartridge. Started with a section of tube 1.1/2" (38mm) in diameter and wall thickness of 1/16" (1.6mm) shown in the bottom centre of the pic. The one I'm working on is the main tank, having a screw on filler cap and looking a bit like a flask- I have to make another former of some kind to finish to the shape I need in order to make 2 of them, one main tank and one reserve. The reserve tank will be inverted for design purposes and will become obvious when assembled (I hope). Regards

So sorry to hear of his sudden passing. My thoughts also are with the family. The loss of a good, 'down-to-earth' person will be much missed, and also on this, and the Redsquare Forum. R.I.P. Norm, we won't forget you. Richard

Hi Ray, Ah, Ok. That is Municipal/Commercial grade machinery which is way outside my parameters of familiarisation. Can't find any positive responses from a search of the Model number AG2327. SPS tractors website are out of stock. So if it's a Briggs, you should know where you are with that. Good to hear how you get on with it. Regards

Hi Ray, If it's one of the Wolseley Merry Tiller Models with a Scythe attachment, you will need to obtain a Manual for the Machine you wish to refer to and one for the Scythe attachment. Found loads online. here is an example for the 36" Scythe Is this a new project? Regards, Richard.

Bonjour Noel, Veuillez trouver un lien vers l’annonce eBay. Landmaster L150 Regards.

Bonjour, Veuillez vérifier ici dans quelques jours. Je pourrai peut-être vous aider. Cordialement. Richard. (hello, please check here in a few days. I may be able to help)

Thanks Gents, Yes Norm, I'm also beginning to enthuse about it's completion. Advancement of only a small part of the project, but is of significance to my ability to produce it. I've just about finished the front Caster wheel assembly- It's taken me a while now to produce and assemble all the parts. Final job was putting a chamfer on the wheel rims- One step closer to havng a rolling chassis, so I'll put this to one side. Only the barest perceptible wobble, which I'll try to eliminate, (but not too hard) before having the spokes professionally welded to the rim. Regards.

If you still have the WH wheel bolts handy Ray, I will check with Roly to see if he still needs them and will drop you a PM. Thanks very much for that. Regards

Just for everyone's information. I have uploaded the available manual in PDF form for the Hayter Osprey and 21 machines. It's in the orange header line marked DOWNLOADS. Engine data will need to be obtained from the B&S website. Regards

Just for everyone's information. I have uploaded the available manual in PDF form for the Hayter Osprey and 21 machines. It's in the orange header line marked DOWNLOADS. Engine data will need to be obtained from the B&S website. Regards

Hi Ray, Hope all's well. You beat me to it. JonW- I have replied to your PM. Regards

Had some lathe and milling machine time in recently. Started on the wheel for the front caster. Had barely enough 40mm dia EN8 Steel to make the hub and leave enough for the drive coupling. Had to work really close to the chuck jaws, which was going fine with light feed, then I noticed the 'in-feed' movement of the parting tool went 'light' and easier !. I withdrew the tool and found it had failed !. As I bought it in a modestly priced set 38 years ago and just lightly stoned the cutting edge now and again, it has served me very well- I finished off with a narrow HSS type with no issues. Indexed and drilled for the spokes on the Mill with barely 1.5mm clearance between rotary table wheel and chuck ! - Also added an angled grease point and made the bronze bushes to be pressed in later- I decided to keep the original engine output drive clutch bell and make a driven plate to replace the original Mower Clutch plates to form a coupling. This would allow for any tiny misalignment of the engine and the reducton unit. The load transfered through this part will be much less than it was orignally handling in a Mower, but I wanted it to be efficient and reliable. Ordered a 105mm x 4mm laser cut mild Steel disc and meanwhile, I made 6 bronze wear pads - The slitting saw used is only 0.0125" (0.3mm) thick. These pads were soldered to the dog spokes of the plate where they will contact the recesses in the clutch bell. The plate was then set up to drill and tap for the 6 HT fixing screws to the boss- Once I had cut the keyway in the boss, I pressed the plate with the drilled and countersunk holes onto the boss and finished fitting the screws. i need to file out the keyway in the plate to depth. The bell drive recesses needed weld metal added where they were worn from mowing since 1954, but were not bad at all - The caster wheel is at the final assembly stage. My reasons for using surplus thick walled steel tubing for the rim left over from my previous Water Cart wheel making becomes clear. It all fits and allows me to re-use the wheel jig for accurate assembly ! - Regards

Thank you Gents!. Still learning as I go and making reasonable progress. Finished the parts for the front caster assembled here with a temporary bolt, so just the wheel to make- I had to make the 1/2" BSF Pin Bolt to ensure a good fit and with fine adjustment. I have some 15/16" AF high carbon Hex steel, so set to and turned one up on the lathe- Also made a nut. I bit the bullet and started 'tacking' the frame joints and managed to continue with reasonble weld joints to form a strong frame. I wll need to get the upper surface joints properly done. The mahogany planks have been cut and temporarily fitted for trimming to bring the surface level with the frame's surface. Embelishments include a brass nut cover to keep it weather tight- .........and we all like to 'trial assemble', so this gives a better image of the project- Regards

Hi Mike, Good collection and restoration work I presume on your behalf. A fellow Countryman of yours who left the Forum several years ago, also was a Briggs collector. His name was Matt, but left us many images. Here is a link to just one of his contribrutions, but if you scan for his others on pages 4 & 5 also of this section, you'll find many- Briggs Regards

Bit of progress on making parts, turned up a few bronze pieces for a change, starting with a pair of captive chassis axle to wheel thrust bearings. Shaft size is 9/16" (>13mm) dia- Then drew up the front Caster wheel design, sourced some rectangular thick box section steel and started on the axial bearing. Took a slice of bronze off the 2" dia hollow bar after boring out to exactly 1" (25.4mm) first- I planned to use 5/32" bearing balls from old bearing stock like I did with the Drill Project a few years back. Calculated the number required (18) and set up for machining on the rotary table. As I was slot drilling partially through the cage plate, I had to use thin birch ply under it. Using a 'Ball Nosed Slot Drill' of the same diameter as the balls, they sit very comfortably in their respective positions- I then machined a shallow 'race' in the 2 mating bearing plates using the same table settings, leaving a running clearance on each side of the cage plate- Very pleased with the way this bit went, being my first attempt at an Axial Bearing and it all runs very smoothly (without grease) when assembled. Regards

Been a while since the last post and have been occupied daily with this. Commenced work on the chassis after drawing it up, deciding on material sizes, ordering it etc etc and finally starting the cutting. Settled for 50 x 50 x 3mm angle and drew the design up full size on a nice flat piece of thick birch ply. Chassis size is 360mm x 620mm. After lots of sawing, filing and bending, I have reached this point - Havng decided on three wheels, it took me a little longer to come up with the layout. The front wheel will be a 'Caster' type and it looks like I'll have to make it. I've made a mounting plate 5mm thick to strengthen the area, plus a towing eye. I will tack weld all the joints and then decide whether I continue welding it all up myself, or get it done properly ! - Back to engine and reduction gear mounts which need to be trimmed to final height before welding to the base plate etc - Regards

Can't give you the belt size, but the part number from the manual is 2348. An online search for hayter 21 part number 2348 throws up several outlets to obtain one. Here's an example- HAYTER 21 2348

Reduction gear clutch parts finished now and all fit nicely in the finished bearing plates. Painted a nice shiney black enamel, then lacquered, it goes well with the polished brass parts- Couple of jobs to do before I fit the innards to the Reduction unit, but able to move on to couplings and chassis design. Regards

This is the nearest I can find online. This link - B&S LINK should take you to the B&S website for Manuals and Parts LIsts. You can either download and save directly or get them sent to you by email. The link shows User Manual (top) and Parts (bottom) Note - ignore the middle chinese one. They cover variants of your engine, so look for your type. In answer to your original question about the fitting/retention of the fuel valve, I can only suggest you replace the part. If it is the original plastic, then it wears out after 43 years. Just search using the B&S name and part number. Regards

OK, That is exactly what I need. It's below 10 cu inches, so model nbr is only 5 digits. The last digit will be an '8' which refers to the starting method (Vertical manual pull). If it was a 3, you would have a 110volt gear drive start!. I'll get back on here when I've checked the Service Manual.