Anglo Traction

Thanks Norm, Nigel. Soldered the 2 halves of the tank together, but left the end plates for now, as need access. Much of the work over the last 6 weeks has been doing fiddly parts. Because this project is all 'Scratch Built'', I want to keep the parts as scale size to the original. The water outlet/valve is an example and is a simple 'Bottle' style valve running in guides. The joint faces are metal to metal (no seals)- The faces that contact the inside/outside of the tank are contoured to a close fit. The weighted lever sits 'over centre' when closed, which applies pressure on the Spring Stainless rod and so on the valve face/seat to improve the water tight seal. Another view to show the valve/seat and the fabricated outlet with correctly bolted (12BA) flange. This will lead to a Sprinkler Bar as per original- Hardwood support legs finished to size. A range of steel coach bolts with square/hex nuts, and an alternative flanged outlet elbow for supply to the Traction Engine tank. The ball on the end of the pump handle is 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter- Hose hooks are 0.010" (.25mm) shim steel annealed for drilling and bending, then re hardened and tempered to spring grade. Screws are 14BA- Finally got the wheels done last night and are retained by blind 'Top Hat' caps with a cross pin, as per the full size. Pins are 3/64" (1.25mm) - Going to be a shame to cover this in paint

Ok Norm, I'm not the world's expert on wiring, but I got it right twice on WH rewires., I reckon if you have the right type of switch?, you have a constant live supply to the Solenoid through the switch when turned on, this constantly makes your starter turn, so the wire must be on the wrong blade on the back of the switch. At least the Solenoid is working ok. If you have no safety switches (Seat, PTO, Pedal), then the Red wire goes from the 'S' Blade on the back of the ignition Switch directly to the small terminal on the Solenoid. The Ammeter is showing - (minus) amps because the constantly running starter motor is drawing the current that would normally be recharging the battery. Check the Ammeter is correctly wired Pos & Neg though. Looking at your pics, I see an awful lot of red wires which will be very confusing to you if someone has messed about with the colour coding. Here is an amended diagram to reflect the absence of a primary safety switch (one left in to represent the PTO switch)- The 2 wires (shown dotted) from the Alternator (may be grey or purple) can be transposed on the Rectifier as the supply is AC. The output through the Orange wire to the Ign Switch is DC. Ignition Switch is earthed through it's body and is essential for the ammeter etc to work properly. Keep at it.

Hi Norm, You don't say what model it is, so I presume it's 1980/81 which uses a 3 position/5 pin 103990 Ign Switch. I've handed my C-120 Info on to Roly with the Tractor, but checked for comparison using parts list. This diagram should be identical for you to check yours- The solenoid may look non serviceable, but I only needs 4 rivets drilling out and replacing after a clean out. Covered it in my C-120/Raider update if you want a link?. Hope it helps. Edit - 103990 switch pins are marked- S- Safety Switch/ Sol Start. R- Rectifier. A- Accessories (lights). I - Igntion (poss via seat safety switch) . B - Battery/Ammeter .

Wick is usually raised and lowered by a wheel that grips the wick. The top section of the burner should lift off of the fuel tank to expose it and replace the wixk when necessary. A picture would help?. A bit older than your heater, but relevant -

Thanks Ewan. I fancied a change last few weeks, as it has been a bit cold. So I turned my hand to learning to steam bend and shape some hardwood for the shafts, even though I'm making a steel framed drawbar to connect to the T/Engine. The shafts came out well as a matched pair and have nearly finished all the 'Ironwork' fittings which were a bit fiddlely to shape in a small size- I'm a bit slow on the tank work, as I need to plan the stages before I begin to rivet/solder up the sections......then there is Xmas!.

I prefer to always log off from Sites/Forums and clear all history+ other data after disconnecting Wi Fi every time. Never had any log in issues anywhere using windows7 and Googy Chrome. I'm not clear on the 'Always Logged in' situ. Can't get my head around it, as if someone says they always remain logged in to a Site/Forum, why does it not show the Username on the 'Who's Online' section at the bottom of the Home page?. Some Forums I use automatically drop you out after a period of inactivity. Then again, I am maybe over cautious. I hope the cause of the problem is able to be resolved and explained.

Looks like you've nearly 'got it nailed' Ian !.

Sorry to hear you're having problems Alain. Would be sorry to see you go and your absence would leave a large void here. Persevere and try Karl's advice. Don't ever let any IT gremlins grind you down. I've just beaten Ford UK into submission with their website after a frustrating 3 weeks (punch air)......... ....and I'm no expert!.

Nice project Chris. I made a new bush for the C120. Used bronze and pressed in. Too expensive to ship one over and not available here.

Thanks Expeatfarmer (and Alan). Glad to say the Wheels are finished . Lots of time spent shaping the Hubs to represent castings like the originals. Glad I made a few riveting tools many years ago. Shown here is one I made especially to suit the Traction Engine Wheels with tight spaces to get into. Worked a treat on 1/16" dia copper rivets- Even more detail with the Oiler Tubes with screw on caps- Barely a perceptible wobble in these, but will ream the bores again to run perfectly true. Back to working on the Tank and fittings. An example of pics I use as reference (courtesy of a T/engine Forum user)- Helps me with scale and detail. I'm making the outlet valve and lever exactly the same as an original, so hope works ok.

Forgot how so very complicated it is to build wheels in this manner. Last lot were 35 years ago!. Happy with progress though. With the spokes secured in the hubs in the right places, the covers were soldered in place first, then I began meticulously setting each brass letter in place around the Hubs to replicate the 'Cast In' lettering. I had planned it out way back when I first made the hub parts- I used a dirty steel washer to hold the letters in place and bolting it all up to keep the hub parts lined up while I 'cooked' it to sweat the letters into a thin bed of solder. After removing the retaining bolt/washer- After an initial clean up and bonding check- Still more machining to do before finally riveting them up

Wheels are taking shape. Lot of monotonous work machining 20 spokes 1/8" (3.175mm) wide from 1.2mm sheet, then bending to two different shapes to fit- Spokes are fixed to hubs with 10BA c/sunk screws. Still lots of work before these are riveted to the rims and finished-

Just to bump this topic to say that this engine has been dismantled for more jobs to be finished prior to painting and running. I have also decided to make something to accompany it in 1 inch scale. Over the last 3 months, I've been researching Water Carts as well as referring to my old Model Engineer magazines from 1980's. So I've got enough info and images to reproduce an example of a Wallis and Steevens Ltd of Basingstoke Cart of the late 1890s. Wary of copyright issues, so here is a link to google search results. The black and white image is mainly what I'm working to- Wallis & Steevens Water Bowser Want to get these two models done so I can set up for painting at the same time and am making good progress. A few pics of what I've done so far- Machining the 'T' section wheel rims fron thick walled steel tube 4 1/2" dia x 1/4" thick (114mm x 6.3mm)- Finished 'T' rings with the hubs- ............and the wheel building jig with the finished axle/hubs - Side plates with associated parts ready for silver soldering- The side plates silver soldered up and trial fitted along with the lifting pump- Happy with the progress. Regards

Hi Ian , Shame you're having to downsize and localise your operation. It's hard having to deal with these kinds of serious blows. As mentioned when we last met up, I know exactly what you and and especially your wife have gone through. I've been doing the same with machines and W/Horses where I only play with small light work now and enjoy the space I now have, but I had a choice, where you perhaps have not. Chin up and just tick over within your limits. Best wishes for you both.

I know there is a lot experience and knowledge of these O&R enigne powered machine on here, so I thought I'd dip a toe in the water and post this sorry sight in a Tray- From a quick scan of the topics on here, I presume the red paint indicates an early-ish model. The engine cowling is a devoted effort by someone in the past to repair or keep running this unit without replacement parts being available, as the retractable pullstart is long gone. Being offered it, I'm tempted to have a go at it, but doubt if I could get it back to original appearance, the cost and availablility of parts and the current condition. The only numbers I could see on the motor are shown here- This being in the UK will not be so easy to sort, so may put under the bench for some 'over winter' repair therapy?. Regards

Will come back with an update on this towards the winter. It has now been married up to a good example of the original mower it used to push around in the 1920s- Needless to say in the meantime, it's being parked up on a display stand to earn it's keep at the Museum. I'm busy with miniature stuff at the moment.

There are several possible reasons for excessive oil consumption in these older 'K' engines, so I'm not sure if you have covered all of them off yet?. Use of correct Oil. It is often experienced that use of modern synthetic blends etc in these engines can cause high consumption. They were designed for Mineral based Oils. A good 30 wt oil of spec as specified in the manual for air cooled, splash lubrication will always serve well. It is also possible that fitting new rings to a worn/used bore will not improve it's current condition very much. It may be worn 'out of round' , of which there is a limit quoted. As mentioned, deglazing a cylinder can work wonders for a tired engine, but it needs to be done correctly to resemble the finish of a newly honed engine. Kohler recommend the honing marks should intersect at approx 30degrees, and if these marks are either too steep or shallow, the oil consumption/friction can increase. Here is an example of the correct honing finish (after a rebore)- There is another area to check, if not already done so. The valve guides are a possible cause and can have the same affect as worn rings on Oil use and by causing the crankcase to be pressurised, instead of running with a partial vacuum. These are good engines and are readily able to be rebuilt, so I for one am pleased with your clear determination to get this one back up to spec. I hope your potential engine rebore service is local to you. It's a few years since I had a K301 fully worked by Sutton Rebore Services and I was so impressed by their standards and prices. The sound of an almost 'back to new' engine running as it should is payment enough. Regards

Put this machine to the test yesterday for my first attempt. Used 1.5mm thick copper for my 1 inch scale Water Cart tank. Marked and spotted first for 144 x 1/32"(.8mm) diameter rivets. Annealed and cleaned the sheets twice during bending. It will do for me as both halves rolled to identical diameters . Marked the adjuster knobs on the top Roll so I knew each is at the same setting-

Your engine is listed as S12D. I used this to search and find ring sets for that model (12hp, points ignition). There is also a TRA12D, identical, but with electronic ignition, but I suspect they both use the same ring part number. You will have to obtain a service/parts manual to double check what you need, or provide a retailer with all of your engine's model/spec and serial numbers. Wisconsin are still in business in the U.S and suspect will be the only place you will get replacements that you can trust and be prepared to pay premium prices/delivery and import charges.......then again, it depends where in the world you are located??? link to example Piston Ring possibility

Ok, Thats me being a bit slow responding and you being on the same frequency!. Yeah, strange how the occasional metric dimension crops up in U.S. equipment. The specs in the Kohler Manual for the Crank journals each end are not round imperial fractions in Thous of an inch- 1.1811" = 30mm. Regards.

Hi Ewan, other options which I would follow is, if you have a parts manual for the engine, do a search online using the part number. Often, something will show up with an alternative bearing number or dimension (probably stateside) to work to. Or, post the question on Redsquare, as there must be owners of early 60's machines who have been there and done it . They should be same size bearing as in K181. Good luck .

Can't help with the orientation of the piston. Hoping to become familiar with J.A.P engines soon. Suggest that if you are keeping the machine and using it, it may be worth obtaining a J.A.P Manual to assist with the engine assembly- Manual

Hi Norm, Yes, they should do for me. Not best quality, or hardened/ground rolls, as they were painted and I had to clean it off them to ensure the rolls were smooth enough for the finer metals I will be using. Took a flyer and ordered off ebay. Came from Poland. Bit anxious for the last week, as overdue and no update or shipping info since 20th June. All sorted . Just waiting for some tooling for the Mill to arrive and I'll be bending metal at the weekend.

For many years, I've wanted to be able to roll sheet metal (in small sizes). From shaping the nickel silver cleading on my traction engine to making fuel tanks and small exhaust mufflers. So after saving up the Workshop pocket money, I've finally got a set of Mini Bending Rolls- Quite heavy duty rollers for a 300mm wide unit and steel geared. Plenty big enough for all the jobs I have for it, and at 14kgs, just unbolts from the bench to be stored out of the way. ....I'll get around to making some Swaging Rolls one day

Manual reccommends Champion RCJ8 0.025" gap (unless running on propane etc). Not sure if modern ones are as good as the old ones, so here is a cross reference for loads of alternatives grabbed from the net-