Anglo Traction

Well it’s off the bench a few more bits to do but it’s getting there

Hi all, thanks for the positive responses. Certainly a different way of working when producing scale models without plans or castings etc. Everything takes longer and a lot of thinking.
Managed to reach a point of trial fitting the spray bar parts today  which I've been working on for a while-

 
I stripped the chrome off of a 60s car aerial section which was the right size in hard straight brass (5/32" or <4mm). 
I failed with reproducing the flanged connecting pipe, as it should be straight and I had to 'dog leg' it to line up.
Probably as a result from having to work from a basic drawing for sizes of a similar make of cart. Still, it's a reasonable representation until I can get to M.E.R.L to inspect the company's  original drawings.
The retaining brackets were an excercise in miniature milling and retained with 12ba coach bolts/nuts-
  
 
Time to start drilling loads of tiny holes............I may be some time !.
Regards  
 

Hi all, thanks for the positive responses. Certainly a different way of working when producing scale models without plans or castings etc. Everything takes longer and a lot of thinking.
Managed to reach a point of trial fitting the spray bar parts today  which I've been working on for a while-

 
I stripped the chrome off of a 60s car aerial section which was the right size in hard straight brass (5/32" or <4mm). 
I failed with reproducing the flanged connecting pipe, as it should be straight and I had to 'dog leg' it to line up.
Probably as a result from having to work from a basic drawing for sizes of a similar make of cart. Still, it's a reasonable representation until I can get to M.E.R.L to inspect the company's  original drawings.
The retaining brackets were an excercise in miniature milling and retained with 12ba coach bolts/nuts-
  
 
Time to start drilling loads of tiny holes............I may be some time !.
Regards  
 

Hi all, thanks for the positive responses. Certainly a different way of working when producing scale models without plans or castings etc. Everything takes longer and a lot of thinking.
Managed to reach a point of trial fitting the spray bar parts today  which I've been working on for a while-

 
I stripped the chrome off of a 60s car aerial section which was the right size in hard straight brass (5/32" or <4mm). 
I failed with reproducing the flanged connecting pipe, as it should be straight and I had to 'dog leg' it to line up.
Probably as a result from having to work from a basic drawing for sizes of a similar make of cart. Still, it's a reasonable representation until I can get to M.E.R.L to inspect the company's  original drawings.
The retaining brackets were an excercise in miniature milling and retained with 12ba coach bolts/nuts-
  
 
Time to start drilling loads of tiny holes............I may be some time !.
Regards  
 

Hi all, thanks for the positive responses. Certainly a different way of working when producing scale models without plans or castings etc. Everything takes longer and a lot of thinking.
Managed to reach a point of trial fitting the spray bar parts today  which I've been working on for a while-

 
I stripped the chrome off of a 60s car aerial section which was the right size in hard straight brass (5/32" or <4mm). 
I failed with reproducing the flanged connecting pipe, as it should be straight and I had to 'dog leg' it to line up.
Probably as a result from having to work from a basic drawing for sizes of a similar make of cart. Still, it's a reasonable representation until I can get to M.E.R.L to inspect the company's  original drawings.
The retaining brackets were an excercise in miniature milling and retained with 12ba coach bolts/nuts-
  
 
Time to start drilling loads of tiny holes............I may be some time !.
Regards  
 

Hi all, thanks for the positive responses. Certainly a different way of working when producing scale models without plans or castings etc. Everything takes longer and a lot of thinking.
Managed to reach a point of trial fitting the spray bar parts today  which I've been working on for a while-

 
I stripped the chrome off of a 60s car aerial section which was the right size in hard straight brass (5/32" or <4mm). 
I failed with reproducing the flanged connecting pipe, as it should be straight and I had to 'dog leg' it to line up.
Probably as a result from having to work from a basic drawing for sizes of a similar make of cart. Still, it's a reasonable representation until I can get to M.E.R.L to inspect the company's  original drawings.
The retaining brackets were an excercise in miniature milling and retained with 12ba coach bolts/nuts-
  
 
Time to start drilling loads of tiny holes............I may be some time !.
Regards  
 

Amazing work Richard and. Lovely to  see. 

Brilliant work as usual Richard.   

Great work, Richard. I can understand why my mother said, she hardly saw my father when he was building his. Home from work, had his dinner, then disappeared into his shed. Supposedly over an 18 month period.
  

Thanks Norm, Nigel. 
Soldered the 2 halves of the tank together, but left the end plates for now, as need access. Much of the work over the last 6 weeks has been doing fiddly parts.
Because this project is all 'Scratch Built'', I want to keep the parts as scale size to the original.
The water outlet/valve is an example and is a simple 'Bottle' style valve running in guides. The joint faces are metal to metal (no seals)-
 
     
 
The faces that contact the inside/outside of the tank are contoured to a close fit.
The weighted lever sits 'over centre' when closed,  which applies pressure on the Spring Stainless rod and so on the valve face/seat to improve the water tight seal.
Another view to show the valve/seat and the fabricated outlet with correctly bolted (12BA) flange. This will lead to a Sprinkler Bar as per original-
 
Hardwood support legs finished to size. A range of steel coach bolts with square/hex nuts, and an alternative flanged outlet elbow for supply to the Traction Engine tank.
The ball on the end of the pump handle is 1/16"  (1.6mm) diameter- 
 

 
Hose hooks are 0.010" (.25mm) shim steel annealed for drilling and bending, then re hardened and tempered to spring grade. Screws are 14BA-
 

 
Finally got the wheels done last night and are retained by blind 'Top Hat' caps with a cross pin, as per the full size. Pins are 3/64" (1.25mm) -
 
  
 
Going to be a shame to cover this in paint 
 
 
 
 

Very  nice  (jigsaw) project you have there Nigel !.  I'm impressed that your Blaster/Powder Coat man takes the trouble to wrap/protect all the parts for return.

Spent some time on the K141 engine ( in the photo above ). It had stuck valves and a broken carb. Ive removed the head and cleaned everything up, the bore looks good with no wear. Found some bits to build another carb and cleaned the points.
Another engine now running with no smoke or rattles so have a choice which one’s to use.
Happy bunny and can move on to the next challenge.

Where do I start
 
 

You/Mark were my next port of call as a suggestion to Angus, as I remember the project  Ewan .  

We had one on a lawn ranger engine that blew up, just looked in the box full of the broken parts but can't find it, we may have sold it. Will have another look tomorrow.

I’ve put the carbs through the ultrasonic cleaner and assembled one and fitted to the engine so i now have one nice running engine.
I can say I’m well pleased with the engine as ive owned it for about six years and its been under the bench ever since.
I feel a big hurdle crossed today.

Thanks Norm, Nigel. 
Soldered the 2 halves of the tank together, but left the end plates for now, as need access. Much of the work over the last 6 weeks has been doing fiddly parts.
Because this project is all 'Scratch Built'', I want to keep the parts as scale size to the original.
The water outlet/valve is an example and is a simple 'Bottle' style valve running in guides. The joint faces are metal to metal (no seals)-
 
     
 
The faces that contact the inside/outside of the tank are contoured to a close fit.
The weighted lever sits 'over centre' when closed,  which applies pressure on the Spring Stainless rod and so on the valve face/seat to improve the water tight seal.
Another view to show the valve/seat and the fabricated outlet with correctly bolted (12BA) flange. This will lead to a Sprinkler Bar as per original-
 
Hardwood support legs finished to size. A range of steel coach bolts with square/hex nuts, and an alternative flanged outlet elbow for supply to the Traction Engine tank.
The ball on the end of the pump handle is 1/16"  (1.6mm) diameter- 
 

 
Hose hooks are 0.010" (.25mm) shim steel annealed for drilling and bending, then re hardened and tempered to spring grade. Screws are 14BA-
 

 
Finally got the wheels done last night and are retained by blind 'Top Hat' caps with a cross pin, as per the full size. Pins are 3/64" (1.25mm) -
 
  
 
Going to be a shame to cover this in paint 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Norm, Nigel. 
Soldered the 2 halves of the tank together, but left the end plates for now, as need access. Much of the work over the last 6 weeks has been doing fiddly parts.
Because this project is all 'Scratch Built'', I want to keep the parts as scale size to the original.
The water outlet/valve is an example and is a simple 'Bottle' style valve running in guides. The joint faces are metal to metal (no seals)-
 
     
 
The faces that contact the inside/outside of the tank are contoured to a close fit.
The weighted lever sits 'over centre' when closed,  which applies pressure on the Spring Stainless rod and so on the valve face/seat to improve the water tight seal.
Another view to show the valve/seat and the fabricated outlet with correctly bolted (12BA) flange. This will lead to a Sprinkler Bar as per original-
 
Hardwood support legs finished to size. A range of steel coach bolts with square/hex nuts, and an alternative flanged outlet elbow for supply to the Traction Engine tank.
The ball on the end of the pump handle is 1/16"  (1.6mm) diameter- 
 

 
Hose hooks are 0.010" (.25mm) shim steel annealed for drilling and bending, then re hardened and tempered to spring grade. Screws are 14BA-
 

 
Finally got the wheels done last night and are retained by blind 'Top Hat' caps with a cross pin, as per the full size. Pins are 3/64" (1.25mm) -
 
  
 
Going to be a shame to cover this in paint 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Norm, Nigel. 
Soldered the 2 halves of the tank together, but left the end plates for now, as need access. Much of the work over the last 6 weeks has been doing fiddly parts.
Because this project is all 'Scratch Built'', I want to keep the parts as scale size to the original.
The water outlet/valve is an example and is a simple 'Bottle' style valve running in guides. The joint faces are metal to metal (no seals)-
 
     
 
The faces that contact the inside/outside of the tank are contoured to a close fit.
The weighted lever sits 'over centre' when closed,  which applies pressure on the Spring Stainless rod and so on the valve face/seat to improve the water tight seal.
Another view to show the valve/seat and the fabricated outlet with correctly bolted (12BA) flange. This will lead to a Sprinkler Bar as per original-
 
Hardwood support legs finished to size. A range of steel coach bolts with square/hex nuts, and an alternative flanged outlet elbow for supply to the Traction Engine tank.
The ball on the end of the pump handle is 1/16"  (1.6mm) diameter- 
 

 
Hose hooks are 0.010" (.25mm) shim steel annealed for drilling and bending, then re hardened and tempered to spring grade. Screws are 14BA-
 

 
Finally got the wheels done last night and are retained by blind 'Top Hat' caps with a cross pin, as per the full size. Pins are 3/64" (1.25mm) -
 
  
 
Going to be a shame to cover this in paint 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Norm, Nigel. 
Soldered the 2 halves of the tank together, but left the end plates for now, as need access. Much of the work over the last 6 weeks has been doing fiddly parts.
Because this project is all 'Scratch Built'', I want to keep the parts as scale size to the original.
The water outlet/valve is an example and is a simple 'Bottle' style valve running in guides. The joint faces are metal to metal (no seals)-
 
     
 
The faces that contact the inside/outside of the tank are contoured to a close fit.
The weighted lever sits 'over centre' when closed,  which applies pressure on the Spring Stainless rod and so on the valve face/seat to improve the water tight seal.
Another view to show the valve/seat and the fabricated outlet with correctly bolted (12BA) flange. This will lead to a Sprinkler Bar as per original-
 
Hardwood support legs finished to size. A range of steel coach bolts with square/hex nuts, and an alternative flanged outlet elbow for supply to the Traction Engine tank.
The ball on the end of the pump handle is 1/16"  (1.6mm) diameter- 
 

 
Hose hooks are 0.010" (.25mm) shim steel annealed for drilling and bending, then re hardened and tempered to spring grade. Screws are 14BA-
 

 
Finally got the wheels done last night and are retained by blind 'Top Hat' caps with a cross pin, as per the full size. Pins are 3/64" (1.25mm) -
 
  
 
Going to be a shame to cover this in paint 
 
 
 
 

Beautiful work, Richard.

Truly amazing craftsmanship

Ok Norm, I'm not the world's expert on wiring, but I got it right twice on WH rewires.,
I reckon if you have the right type of switch?,  you have a constant live supply to the Solenoid through the switch when turned on, this constantly makes your starter turn, so the wire must be on the wrong blade on the back of the switch. At least the Solenoid is working ok.
If you have no safety switches (Seat, PTO, Pedal), then the  Red wire goes from the 'S'  Blade on the back of the ignition Switch directly to the small terminal on the Solenoid.
The Ammeter is showing - (minus) amps because the constantly running starter motor is drawing the current that would normally be recharging the battery.
Check the Ammeter is correctly wired Pos & Neg though.
Looking at your pics, I see an awful lot of red wires which will be very confusing to you if someone has messed about with the colour coding.
Here is an amended diagram to reflect the absence of a primary safety switch (one left in to represent the PTO switch)-

 
The 2 wires (shown dotted) from the Alternator (may be grey or purple) can be transposed on the Rectifier as the supply is AC. The output through the Orange wire to the Ign Switch is DC.
Ignition Switch is earthed through it's body and is essential for the ammeter etc to work properly. Keep at it. 
 
 
 

Hi Norm, You don't say what model it is, so I presume it's 1980/81 which uses a 3 position/5 pin 103990 Ign Switch. I've handed my C-120 Info on to Roly with the Tractor, but checked for comparison using parts list.
This diagram should be identical for you to check yours-
  
 
The solenoid may look non serviceable, but I only needs 4 rivets drilling out and replacing after a clean out. Covered it in my C-120/Raider update if you want a link?.
Hope it helps. 
Edit - 103990 switch pins are marked-
S- Safety Switch/ Sol Start.  R- Rectifier.  A- Accessories (lights).  I - Igntion (poss via seat safety switch) .   B - Battery/Ammeter . 
  

Hi Norm, You don't say what model it is, so I presume it's 1980/81 which uses a 3 position/5 pin 103990 Ign Switch. I've handed my C-120 Info on to Roly with the Tractor, but checked for comparison using parts list.
This diagram should be identical for you to check yours-
  
 
The solenoid may look non serviceable, but I only needs 4 rivets drilling out and replacing after a clean out. Covered it in my C-120/Raider update if you want a link?.
Hope it helps. 
Edit - 103990 switch pins are marked-
S- Safety Switch/ Sol Start.  R- Rectifier.  A- Accessories (lights).  I - Igntion (poss via seat safety switch) .   B - Battery/Ammeter .