pmackellow 2,738 #26 Posted November 14, 2016 Tank has arrived, many thanks to Webhead Just need to get it looking the same as the blue one now... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #27 Posted February 9, 2017 These units have not been forgotten, still waiting for the second tank to be done and have been busy with the Orline compressor set Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #28 Posted February 18, 2017 Second tank collected today, looks good... (original is on the right in first photo) 5 Cub Cadet, Wallfish, the showman and 2 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #29 Posted February 18, 2017 Nice job! Did you solder that stuff or use something else? 1 pmackellow reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #30 Posted February 18, 2017 2 hours ago, Wallfish said: Nice job! Did you solder that stuff or use something else? The chap that did it used chemical metal to bond the brackets 1 S1g reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Webhead 95 #31 Posted February 19, 2017 6 hours ago, pmackellow said: The chap that did it used chemical metal to bond the brackets Chemical metal? What kind of stuff do you guys have over there??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #32 Posted February 19, 2017 13 hours ago, Webhead said: Chemical metal? What kind of stuff do you guys have over there??? Chemical Metal is a brand of two part polyester resin made by Loctite/Henkel over here, it is probably sold under a different name in the US. The safety data sheet provides all the info on what's in it; http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/001f/0900766b8001f4d2.pdf David 1 pmackellow reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Webhead 95 #33 Posted February 19, 2017 JB Weld? Same stuff? Just never heard it called chemical metal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #34 Posted February 19, 2017 J-B Weld is available over here and presumably they have a similar product. Chemical Metal is a brand name of Loctite here, I'm guessing it's named something else in the US as there is a company called Chemical Metal Industries over there, just haven't found it yet. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #35 Posted February 20, 2017 Well I know J-B weld won't hold up to gasoline very long no matter what the manufacturer says. Personal experience. Loctite states this stuff is "resistant" to fuel but I think J-B states that too. Hope it does, it will be useful. The stuff usedtoolman suggested does hold up to gasoline but can't use it for attaching things. It's called Lab Metal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #36 Posted March 7, 2017 Painting the tanks this evening... 2 S1g and the showman reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the showman 4,074 #37 Posted March 7, 2017 Gotta good shine on them. 1 pmackellow reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #38 Posted March 8, 2017 18 hours ago, the showman said: Gotta good shine on them. Not bad for Halfords rattle cans Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #39 Posted March 9, 2017 Tanks back on, bit more fettling to do and they will be ready for Newbury show... 1 Wallfish reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #40 Posted March 10, 2017 Boxed up and at the storage unit until they are next needed... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barry38 0 #41 Posted April 1, 2018 I have 2 Mini Motas which I used every day during the course of my work back in the sixties. One is in good workable condition but has a cracked fuel tank which appears to e the Achilles heel of this machine. The second one has been robbed for spares but could easily be made to work if a new or refurbed tank was available and a con-rod which is missing. I originally though bought genuine spares from a company called Rupert Ledger although I am not sure if it still exists. Does anyone know where I can get spare engine parts for this project ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wristpin 400 #42 Posted April 1, 2018 Quote I originally though bought genuine spares from a company called Rupert Ledger although I am not sure if it still exists. Interesting that you dealt with Rupert Ledger. They went into voluntary liquidation in 1976 . They were better known as manufacturers of ignition testing equipment and I have one of their portable test units. I also have a very useful gadget, the Dy-tone, that they made for ascertaining the condition and the opening / closing point of contact breaker points in flywheel magnetos without the need to dismantle - one wire to the HT lead and one to earth giving an audible signal that changes when the points open or close. A sharp change of note equals clean points and a slurred one, dirty points. Invaluable for setting the timing on early Villiers etc as being audible , hands and eyes are free to align timing marks etc. The company morphed into Ledger Selby and Co. Ltd and also traded as Uni-Pak Maintenance Systems. No mention of drills in any of the literature that I have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #43 Posted April 3, 2018 On 4/1/2018 at 4:17 PM, barry38 said: I have 2 Mini Motas which I used every day during the course of my work back in the sixties. One is in good workable condition but has a cracked fuel tank which appears to e the Achilles heel of this machine. The second one has been robbed for spares but could easily be made to work if a new or refurbed tank was available and a con-rod which is missing. I originally though bought genuine spares from a company called Rupert Ledger although I am not sure if it still exists. Does anyone know where I can get spare engine parts for this project ? The fuel tanks seem to disappear on all types of O&R engine not just this drill, I guess the cracked one could be repaired (mine has been soldered on one of the seams). Do you know anyone that could make a new tank using the original as a pattern? (a model engineer maybe), unless someone has a spare tank of course. There are three possible part numbers for the con-rod depending on the age of the engine (due to bearing size changes over the years), if the engine dates from 1964 or later and is a Compact II (0.85HP) or Compact III (1HP) then the part number is 31-3 according to the information I have, the Bridges Mini-Mota manual in post four of this thread also gives the same part number. Early Compact engines (no HP decal but are 3/4HP) from 1960 to 1962 use part number 31-1, I am missing the 1963 parts list so can't confirm if part number 31-2 is for that year. Rupert Ledger & Co. Ltd of Airfield Estate, White Waltham, Maidenhead in Berkshire (also at 28 Mackenzie St. Slough according to an older service directory list) were the main sales representative and central warehouse distributor for Europe. Have you already found the other common problems with these engines, i.e. the carb diaphragm, air filter foam and sometimes the crankshaft seals? David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites