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expeatfarmer

Ransomes Whitlock WR8 Loader

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When I bought the Whitlock a few years ago, the unique centrifugal plate clutch was inoperative, I stripped it down and found that most of the internals were missing. Using a parts diagram and reference parts I managed to make the missing parts and reassembled it. The one unknown was how thick the clutch friction plate should be, the original was worn but not u/s so I refitted it. The clutch worked but was unable to transmit much power without slipping.

As I have entered it for a display at Malvern in March I thought I better strip it out and have the plate re lined so today I removed the engine and split the clutch ready to send the plate away, does anyone know where I might go for a re line?

The previous owner had rebuilt the tracks with new grousers,rubbers plates and bolts but unfortunately had not tightened the track bolts enough with the consequence that the tracks are at full adjustment and still slack, a nice job for a cold day will be to go round each bolt and tighten them, fortunately my new platform lift makes life a bit easier , I will also replace the two track roller pins with new units instead of the current bolts.post-292-0-13549400-1422301947_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-96244400-1422301980_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-23600000-1422302012_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-98998800-1422302251_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-61178900-1422302281_thumb.jpg

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In another life we used to get clutches and brakes re-lined by a company called Express Auto Services. Not sure whether they were a national company or just local to where we were in SE London but possibly long gone now. I know that there are companies serving the classic bike fraternity who reline cork clutches so possibly they will also do more modern friction materials as well.

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post-292-0-65633900-1423145084_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-48198800-1423145105_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-65633900-1423145084_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-29227800-1423145155_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-71311700-1423145201_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-41578500-1423145264_thumb.jpgWaiting for the clutch I decided to refurb the engine bay and clean up the engine, in the process I discovered some nasty stress cracks in the body at the point where the main lift rams are bolted to the body. Any worse and the arms could have ripped off!

I drilled the crack ends to stop the stress line, ground out a deep vee and then welded first from one side and then repeated the process on the other side. All better now and sprayed up with primer. I also found tha the diesel tank was full of pinholes that had been filled with Isopon, hopefully I will have a new one before Malvern but if not I will have to solder up the old one. 

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I meant to say that it never ceases to amaze me at the quality of the steel used by Ransomes, this machine is over 60 years old and look how the metal cleans up for welding, the paint must be good too!

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post-292-0-76769300-1424345220_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-36555000-1424345266_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-71725400-1424345291_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-57685600-1424345316_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-85063700-1424345335_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-85841600-1424345387_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-38929100-1424345429_thumb.jpgpost-292-0-78652500-1424345450_thumb.jpg

 

Started the task of fitting wooden swamp blocks to the new WR8 tracks. Firstly cut 128 blocks of geen oak ( enough for the WR8 and digger dozer )  Set up a simple jig to drill and counter bore two holes in each block. using a router I cut rebates on the back side of the blocks to clear the track rubbers and trimmed the blocks to width with a power plane.

The green oak is full of tannin which appears to be corrosive so for a few pence more I used stainless machine screws washers and nuts to bolt the pads on. To start with I made the blocks one at a time and bolted them on but this was apparently painfully slow progress so I took ten blocks at a time through each stage rewarding myself with a cup of coffee or a puff on my pipe after each set. Listening to Planet Rock turned up loud also eased the tediumand the back ache.

 

The digger pads are slightly different in that they bolt on above the tracks using an alloy spacer block , I have the pads ready to dress but not started fitting them yet. 


I have been using a small Clarke bench drill and found it very disappointing that the spindle turns out not to be vertical to the work table such a shame that for a few quid more the tool could be really useful.

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They were a factory option to lower the ground pressure on soft ground and increase the stability. They are also a lot better on grass for not chewing up the ground when turning. For me they will stop or reduce chewing up the garage floor and the drive.

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