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C-125 work horse poorly.

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  Old Faithfull, my C-125 Wheel Horse has taken a turn for the worse. I must have owned it for 5 - 6 years or maybe more. In that time it's got used for cutting the hamlet green and verges every year. Towing trailer loads of logs and rubbish.

 Though it used a bit of oil, it's never let me down. Until today. When I cut the green last week, it just didn't sound quite right. Seeming to struggle a bit. But I put it down to the grass being longish, (first cut) and a bit wet.

  Today, though it started straight off, when the deck was engaged the revs dropped a bit and power seemed lacking. As I finished it really started to mess about. Engine dying then speeding up. Fuel? Float bowl off and very little dirt in there. Back together and no difference. Spitting, coughing and backfiring. Maybe dirt in a jet? Hand over the carb throat at high revs. Nope!

 Getting hold of the engine pulley, I found I could turn the engine easily with one hand. Compression seeming non existent. There is also traces of oil between head and barrel. Time for an engine strip methinks.

 So I am now in the process of removing the engine. Monday I'll be collecting a rather rough Raider 10. But engine supposedly good. I'll get it running and see. If ok I'll fit it in the C-125 while I do up it's 12hp one.

 

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 Took the engine out today after taking the head off. Bore looks good, but not measured it yet. Bit of wear on the valve side. Exhaust valve looks well past it's sell by date. Inlet is ok, as are both valve seats. Considering the state of the exhaust valve, I would have expected that to be bad as well.

 

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  Pretty clean in there except round the exhaust valve. Head gasket was leaking oil. As was the other head gasket. Yes! You read that right. Two head gaskets. Head does look a little warped, front to back.

 

  Next, tractor off the bench and engine lifted out.

 

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Found another use for the ambulance I made for Newby Hall last year.

 

Off for a wash.

 

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Nice and clean now.

 

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A bit of TLC might be all it needs Norm, if it's not knocking then a good clean up - new gasket set and carb service will see if good for another 1000 hours.

 

You can get the full service kits still

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I use Kevin at bakt4kids on that auction site. Really good sets, good deal instructions. 

 

I rebuilt bendys engine with full gasket, seals, piston, rings and con rod for about £80

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  I thought I'd need a new exhaust valve, due to the state of it. But while collecting the Raider 10, the chap who I was getting it off, refurbished it for me. That's saved me a couple of bob.

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  Valves nicely lapped in and reassembled. Great fun getting the collets back in place. Even with the engine on it's side. Also disassembled the tappet cover and cleaned the filter that lives in there. Points also removed, cleaned and replaced.

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  Valve clearances set, Cover/breather re-assembled. Had to make a new gasket. Engine back in place and drive pulley, P.T.O. and drive belt cover back on. Carb cleaned and checked. Wiring reconnected. Started on lapping  the head. Ordered a head gasket and it should be here Monday or Tuesday.

 In the meantime, carb to be re-fitted and as the exhaust/silencer fell apart, :(  I suppose I'll have to make a new one. :D

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   Had a bit of a go at a replacement exhaust. Take the manifold end of a kaput exhaust, piece of standard light tubing, machined down trailer eye coupling reducer and an old B.S.A silencer.

 

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 You then get this.

 

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Needs welding and a good clean and painting with BBQ paint.

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  Head gasket arrived from Meetens yesterday. Today I got a piece of 6mm plate glass, free from a window installation firm in the nearby village. I then finished lapping the head.

  I then put everything back together, torqueing down the head bolts. I was going to put oil, fuel and refit the battery tomorrow. But things got the better of me, so I went out and did that after my dinner.

  That done, time to fire up. Only it didn't. No spark. What have I missed/done wrong methinks? :scratchhead: Checked the wiring. All as it should be. I'd had the points out, cleaned and reset them but decided to have a look. Took the cover off, turned the key and off she went. :blink: Running like a good 'un. Put the cover back on. Just holding it and she stopped. Points shorting through the cover.

  So what had I done differently? Well, the points cover had had only the top screw fitted ever since I got it. When I'd had the points off, I fitted a screw into the bottom as well. Without that screw, the bottom of the cover stood slightly proud and was not shorting the points out. There's no screw in there now. Should there be a gasket, 'tween cover and engine?

  That sorted, I ran the engine for a while to warm up and reset the carb. Got a lovely sound at idle. Sweet as a knut. Spits a bit at full revs, but is drawing a bit of air where the exhaust fits to the manifold stub.

  Tomorrow I will re-torque the head bolts. The engine does smoke a little. but no worse than it did. Sometime in the future, I may give it a re-bore. But for now, I'm just happy it's up and running and can be put back to work. May even mow the green and really test it.

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Ref your "smoked a bit". Chap that I learnt from as a teenager always reckoned to leave whatever carbon etc there was on the valve stems "to seal a bit in worn guides". Never subscribed to that theory myself as having access to a valve refacer  I always give the valves and seats a light skim to cut down on lapping time. 

Also, not the first time I've heard of a Kohler loosing its spark due to the points shorting out on their cover!

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