Steering help please

[Scottwilson 76]

Can anyone tell me does the steering split at this joint or how to get the steering shaft out . I’m hoping it’s not the removal of the steering wheel as that’s not possible 😟 should this be a bolt ? 

[the showman 4,074]

You'll need to get the steering wheel off the shaft which is held on with a rollpin, knock that out and give it a good soaking with a penetrate.

The collar has an allen screw holding it in position and sometimes a job to undo, might need warming up to undo it

[nigel 1,876]

Same as what chris says 😄

[Scottwilson 76]

5 hours ago, the showman said:

You'll need to get the steering wheel off the shaft which is held on with a rollpin, knock that out and give it a good soaking with a penetrate.

The collar has an allen screw holding it in position and sometimes a job to undo, might need warming up to undo it

I’ll get a picture of the top tomorrow it looks like a rusty bolt that’s had the head sheared off . The collar pictured don’t have an all key for it it’s flat as if it had a bolt head on it at some stage . It’s annoying as it’s the only thing at the moment stopping me getting it all to the blasters .

[the showman 4,074]

Like i said, its a rollpin number 31 and a allen screw number 27 on the pictures.

[Scottwilson 76]

2 hours ago, the showman said:

Like i said, its a rollpin number 31 and a allen screw number 27 on the pictures.

The Allen key bolt does that go through the shaft or just pinch it ? I’m going to have to drill it out as it has no head on it .

[squonk 71]

It pinches it. It's a lock collar.

[Stormin 4,458]

 It'll not be easy to drill. Its hardened steel. Very hard.

[the showman 4,074]

11 hours ago, Scottwilson said:

The Allen key bolt does that go through the shaft or just pinch it ? I’m going to have to drill it out as it has no head on it .

It doesn't have a head on it, it's an allen screw, see photos 

[Sammoore13bolens1053 11]

22 hours ago, the showman said:

It doesn't have a head on it, it's an allen screw, see photos 

Like the ones used to hold on the front wheels on a bolens 1053, and maybe other models

[Scottwilson 76]

Got a bit more in depth with it today and the roll pin and collar grub screw . The roll pin is solid but I’ll drill it to save damaging the steering wheel . The collar is 100% a sheared bolt as the grub screw must have been lost . Does anyone have a spare collar the want to sell ? Then I can just cut this one off . 

[Stormin 4,458]

The roll pin is hardened spring steel. See if you can get hold of some cobalt tipped drills. From the photo it does look like a broken set screw. Should drill out easy enough.

[Scottwilson 76]

I think I’ve got all of the pin drilled out (cobalt bits are my new best friend)

my next question is I can’t get it to separate. The plastic moulding I’m pointing to with the screwdriver am I ok to take that back until I can see the top of the shaft and use a drift to get it moving ? Or will this knacker the steering wheel? 

[nigel 1,876]

I would stick it lose in a vice so the steering boss is sitting on the top of the jaws , then get an old short socket over the end of the shaft and give it a wack, when it moves then use a drift

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

The plastic part that you point to in the Steering Boss is likely to be the spigot that the original Centre Boss Cap fitted onto.

Look's like it's been missing longtime what with the dust/dirt. So not essential, unless you plan to find one and fit in the future.

 

Now that you have drilled out all or most of the Spirol Pin, a common procedure used to loosen the S/Wheel was to lock the steering linkage (not by the Tie Rods) and apply a hard alternating turning/twisting force to loosen the bond between the upper column and the S/Wheel Boss.

I also take advantage of temperature differentials where I allowed the S/Wheel to warm up in the sun and then using a Freezing Spray, Chill the Column.

It's important to use a proper graphite based Penetrating Oil, rather than something like WD40 . 

 

As for the Collar and sheared Bolt issue, just cut/grind it off, avoiding damage if poss. Replacements are available from here for example -  3/4"Shaft Collar   

 

Last resort - If you can weld, or know someone-  if you still can't get the S/Wheel off (while still in the Tractor), cut the Upper steering Column through at the middle point of your first Topic picture (having marked it above and below so it can be realigned). You can then work on separating the S/Wheel at the Bench as Nigel suggested.

All that's needed to repair the column is a piece of 3/4" bore thick (3 mm) walled Steel Tube about 2.1/2" (50-60 mm) long pressed onto the cut Column ends after lining up the marks to act as a strengthening sleeve and welded up. You can also pin it if required. It won't affect installation or operation. The tube must be a good fit and not loose.

 

One thing to note is that not all Wheel Horse Upper Steering Columns are the same length, should you have to find a replacement, shorter versions were fitted mid 60s-early 70s compared to longer ones fitted from about 73 onwards. This was to allow for higher (sprung) seat position, but they can be extended or shortened to fit if required.

Keep at it.    

 

  

[Scottwilson 76]

Many thanks for the advice and help . The cobalt bits are now my new best friend. The new collar is on its way 👍 tonight when I get in from work I’ll put it in the chest freezer I turned on last night . I’ve ordered the graphite penetrating  oil as I was using wd40 . All of the pin is now successfully drilled it was the pin with a bolt bashed into it to spread it out 😡 once I’ve tried the freezing I’ll also try a little heat from the oxy/acetylene. I’ll keep you updated on progress.