Cub Cadet 613 #51 Posted December 11, 2018 Great work Norm! 1 Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #52 Posted December 11, 2018 6 hours ago, Cub Cadet said: Great work Norm! I'll be wanting the graphics soon. See what you dad's got in stock. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #53 Posted December 12, 2018 Three coats of primer and red top coat applied to the bonnet today. Also the drive belt guard. Flywheel cover and a couple of engine covers primed also. Hope to get the black done tomorrow. 4 HeadExam, Alan, nigel and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #54 Posted December 13, 2018 I got the bonnet masked up and one top coat on today. But it was to cold really for painting. -2c with the east wind. So I got the engine onto the bench and started to remove what I needed to, prior to removing the piston and rod. I'll take those out tomorrow and give it a clean, then see about getting the bore, which looks good, deglazed. 2 nigel and HeadExam reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #55 Posted December 15, 2018 I got the piston and rod out yesterday and it was pleasing to see that the big end bearings and crankpin were unmarked. With the condition of the inside and paint colour, I'm beginning to suspect it is a replacement engine. No engine number either that I can see. I'll measure the crank pin and bore when I can. Nothing done today, as the weather has/is rather inclement. -4c wind chill and icy rain. Not supposed to be any better tomorrow except maybe some snow. I did find when comparing the conrod with the broken one from the Raider 10s 10hp engine, the 10 rod was longer than the 12hp one from the C-125. So that was an idea blown out the window. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #56 Posted December 15, 2018 BTW. I think I've discovered why it was burning oil. Not worn bore or rings. The end gaps in the top and middle rings were in line and not staggered as they should have been. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #57 Posted December 18, 2018 Checked the bore today and it is within spec. So after a deglaze, the new piston, rings and rod got fitted. The engine is now complete but before I refit it, it'll get painted. There are still some bits and bobs to paint and the bonnet to finish, but the weather is too wet and damp for any more painting. 2 expeatfarmer and HeadExam reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #58 Posted December 20, 2018 Managed to get quite a bit done today. One or two hiccups, but a good day. Got the engine painted this morning and the paint dried quite quickly. By lunch time it was back in place. Next I fitted the drive belt and this was when I hit problem number one. As you can see in the photo', the bottom run is under the brake pedal. Should be over the top. So foot plate had to be loosened, the pedal moved out and the operating rod disconnected from the pedal. Got that correct and moved on to the P.T.O. This provided a little snag, as the support bar would not connect to the pulley spindle. Cured that by taking everything off again and moving the drive pulley further in. It wasn't quite fully on by about 1/16". Just enough to prevent support bar connecting with the shaft. All OK now. Fuel pump is now refitted along with governor linkage. Finally I thought it a good idea to fill the engine with oil, which I duly did. After which I did a bit of tidying up before returning to the tractor. Then I SAW IT. A big puddle of oil under the tractor. The C-125 has a tube attached to where the drain plug would be. I'd forgotten to fit it. 4 Cub Cadet, slf-uk, Alan and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HeadExam 1,783 #59 Posted December 21, 2018 Many kohler engines burn oil due to worn valve guides, if you didn't replace them yet I sure would before you start I up, might also want to inspect valve faces and seats as well if you haven't done so already. EDIT: I think you can test valve guides by using a manometer to test pressure. Compression testers wont work on Kohler engines with ACR as the valves don't seat until after 600 rpm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #60 Posted December 21, 2018 Valve faces were re-cut when I did the head gasket last year, I think it was. Guides seemed ok and seats and valves lapped in. 1 HeadExam reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cub Cadet 613 #61 Posted December 21, 2018 On 12/11/2018 at 5:05 PM, Stormin said: I'll be wanting the graphics soon. See what you dad's got in stock. Lets us know, we'll have to print them, will give you a good deal 1 Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #62 Posted December 23, 2018 Didn't get into the workshop yesterday as I took SWMBO down to visit here sister near Oldham. Going in this morning a little surprise awaited me. There was a small pool of oil under the tractor. At first I thought the sump gasket was weeping. I'd used the old gasket, with a smear of silicon grease either side, as it was undamaged and looked ok. Something I've done many times before. So off with the engine and onto the bench. Sump off and a new gasket, with a smear of Hylomar jointing compound either side and sump back on. Engine was then left standing on the bench with a refill of oil in. After a while a trace of oil appeared again. That when I noticed it was coming from the sump it's self by bolt hole. Off with sump again and after a thorough degreasing, no crack was visible. So taking the sump up to the farm I turned the acyt' torch on that corner. Sure enough, as the heat built up a hairline crack became visible, as oil began to appear. I didn't get the area red hot, just enough so all oil contamination was gone. I have some two part epoxy metal replacement stuff, which I have used with success on a petrol tank. I'll give it a try tomorrow. A layer on the inside over the crack. Nothing to lose and it's got two choices. It'll work or not. We'll see. 1 HeadExam reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HeadExam 1,783 #63 Posted December 24, 2018 "The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry", Robert Burns Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #64 Posted December 24, 2018 First photo' is where the crack is. As you can see it's barely visible. You can't see it with naked eye. So I have this metal repair epoxy adhesive which I've used before with success on a petrol tank. Below is it applied. The sump is now on the bench and filled with oil. I'll leave it there for a couple of days. 4 HeadExam, Cub Cadet, Alan and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slf-uk 914 #65 Posted December 24, 2018 Great progress Norm, it is looking really good. Iain 1 Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HeadExam 1,783 #66 Posted December 24, 2018 My main concern is from the vibration and/or the bouncing of the engine on the hard frame. Many tractors have sums mounted directly to the frame and others use rubber isolated carriages. It might be a good Idea to start looking for another sump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #67 Posted December 24, 2018 The engine is mounted on an antivibration plate. But I will be on the look out for another sump. 1 HeadExam reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HeadExam 1,783 #68 Posted December 25, 2018 10 hours ago, Stormin said: The engine is mounted on an antivibration plate. But I will be on the look out for another sump. So it is. I wasn't aware the Wheel Horse's used anti vibe carriages or motor mounts, many of the older ones were bolted directly to the frame, like the early Simplicity, Allis, and Ariens tractors. Still its good your looking for another sump, hard to say if that would last. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #69 Posted December 26, 2018 Got a bit more done today. Engine back on and engine covers fitted, along with the recon carb off Anglo Traction. I have found there's still a slight trace of a leak from the sump. So I think I'll have to find a replacement. 2 HeadExam and Cub Cadet reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #70 Posted December 27, 2018 Got the wiring done today. Found a couple of dodgy connections but everything works ok. Put a battery on, some petrol in and with a bit of persuading it started up. Played about adjusting the carb and got it running something like. Had to take the fuel pump off as it had a bit of a leak. Re-sealed it and that's sorted. Had a spare spring I couldn't think where it belonged. Turned out it was off the P.T.O. lever. So that's back on where it belongs. At one point I knelt on the floor and something stuck me in the knee. Turned out to be a front wheel nut. Silly me hadn't tightened them up. They're tight now and the rear ones checked. They were ok. The leak from the sump is barely discernible. No drips. Should be fine till I source a replacement pan. So nearly there. 2 Alan and HeadExam reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #71 Posted February 4, 2019 Just in case anyone is wondering, progress came to a halt after Christmas, due too a refurbishment of the kitchen. This meant the workshop became a storage/assembly shop. And as stuff went into the house, things came out and into the workshop. Hopefully all will change, in the workshop at least, this weekend and I can get back to the tractor and normality. 3 Cub Cadet, Alan and slf-uk reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #72 Posted February 9, 2019 Took time off from working on the kitchen and got into the workshop. Got the 125 from the corner where it's been sitting to wire up the lights and one or two other bits. Lifted the bonnet and where the fingers locate the metal work gave way. Front of bonnet hit the floor. So bonnet is now on the bench. I'll make a re-enforcing plate for it. And of course some paint work to repair. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan 1,273 #73 Posted February 9, 2019 3 hours ago, Stormin said: Took time off from working on the kitchen and got into the workshop. Got the 125 from the corner where it's been sitting to wire up the lights and one or two other bits. Lifted the bonnet and where the fingers locate the metal work gave way. Front of bonnet hit the floor. So bonnet is now on the bench. I'll make a re-enforcing plate for it. And of course some paint work to repair. Another excuse to get out of the kitchen. "Carol, I just need to finish this urgent job first". 1 Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #74 Posted February 10, 2019 Got another day in the workshop. Sorted and replaced the bonnet. All that's left now are the tach-o-matics to paint and fit. Touch up some bits of paint work and order graphics. Another exhaust will be made later. May not be a stack though. That's it. Horse ready to be put back into harness. 6 expeatfarmer, nigel, HeadExam and 3 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cub Cadet 613 #75 Posted February 26, 2019 Looking awesome Norm! Really like the narrow wheels on the front of the C-series, best thing I did to my C-121. 1 1 HeadExam and Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites