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Ohlsson & Rice: Gas Tank Repair

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Thought I would test out an idea on this gas tank repair on the cheap since I’ve got it opened up. When I heated the bottom to loosen the epoxy seal the heat deformed the plastic cone that holds the fuel filter screen on the end of the pickup tube.  I basically modified a 1/8 x 1/8 compression fitting. I drilled out the center so it could slide on the pickup tube all the way through to make it adjustable and easier to set it at the right position just above the bottom of the tank base plate. I then punched out a 1/4” piece of fuel screen and secured it all in place.

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If you could find a source, something like these would also be suitable with some modification to the pickup tube.

SAM_10619a.jpg.82b8ffef33fc5d8ad071e56ddf9ee97a.jpg

 

David

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Funny, that’s exactly what I wanted to use but I only have one spare and want to save it for a tool at some point. I haven’t had any luck finding filters this small except the sintered bronze type Like the Dubro brand used for RC applications.

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Finished the tank yesterday and sealed it up with Hondabond. Gave it a quick test this afternoon with some gas and didn’t see any leaks. Time will tell I guess...

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why not use an external  inline filter(you may need to clean it, in the future) I used a 5/8" flat bottom steel rod to tap out bottom via the fuel nozzle, it came out easily with no distortion, you can do this with  out removing the tank

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I've used the Sullivan No.187 in-line filter on a couple of my engines, where the original filter was missing or damaged (I had a round tank where someone had stuck a hole through the tank filter).

 

Here is a different base tank filter inside an earlier tank, not a very good picture as the (very cheap) borescope camera didn't want to focus on it.

StillSnapshot000004.jpg.d750052b8808b6ef0e4a77086734774a.jpg

 

David

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I almost always use the SUllivan 187 filters on these engines - they’re great. Just thought for this tank I would add an in-tank filter as well.

 

i have a couple round tanks where someone destroyed the filter screen as well...

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I would use them on more engines if they were available in the UK, shipping & import fees make them very expensive.

 

David

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you could make an inline filter like the in tank filter, however why bother, the in tank filter might plug once a " century" and then back blow it, flush the tank and good for another "century"!!! another question is the governor  vane, when I remover the  cover to expose the vane,

and rotate manually, to what appears to be the maximum deflection( air flow at some excessive rpm) there does not seem to be enough movement  in  the rod to move the governor butterfly, to open and reduce the rpm?

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On 7/30/2020 at 9:41 PM, art faulkner said:

another question is the governor  vane, when I remover the  cover to expose the vane,

and rotate manually, to what appears to be the maximum deflection( air flow at some excessive rpm) there does not seem to be enough movement  in  the rod to move the governor butterfly, to open and reduce the rpm?

 

Actually it works the other way round, the vane gets pushed up by the airflow from the flywheel fan blades, the rotation of the vane shaft then acts to close the butterfly valve, this reduces the amount air/fuel mix getting into the engine until the RPM has reduced enough.

If you could post some pictures of how it's currently set up, it would help confirm if it's fitted correctly, or the vane is bent the wrong way (had that before).

 

I'll check out Du-Bro for filter parts to see if they have anything narrow enough for the inline filters.

 

David

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tks, I used hondabond to seal my  tank, very runny, virtually no inst. other then wait one minute. the hondabond site best comment , was coat each side, and when it stars to get sticky, put together .the other brands loctite 518, dirko ,threebond ,permatex motoseal 29132 very expensive for the couple of drops needed!!! I dried my tk. overnight will check in a few hours( another thought hondabond says the gasket peals off easily, with all the vibration of a running, will it shake loose?)

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I can't comment as I haven't used it, but a couple of others have on here and I haven't seen anyone complain that it fell out. :dunno:

The fact it peals off easily would help if you had a problem & had to redo the seal.

Something to note about some of those products, at least one of them mentioned a short shelf life in the data-sheet, so worth checking before spending a lot on something you might not use much of.

 

David

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Another product is Seal-All. Widely available, Dries quickly and not very expensive. Works great for attaching those little metal disks to the diaphragms too! Webhead turned me on to this

Seal-All-Adhesive.jpg

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19 minutes ago, Wallfish said:Works great for attaching those little metal disks to the diaphragms too! Webhead turned me on to this

Seal-All-Adhesive.jpg

 
I’ve used this too for the metal discs, seems to do the job.

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tkis, another comment on the governor , when I manually operated the governor flapper, the rod did not move the butterfly, slightly or at all, is this a spring tension , lubrication or other problem?  this excessive rpm problem will probably never  happen, but just curious how things work ,on most carburetors when you  close the butterfly you add more gas

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

this excessive rpm

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29 minutes ago, art faulkner said:

,on most carburetors when you  close the butterfly you add more gas

 Not so. Closing the butterfly always allows less air flow through the carb and over the venturi tube and therefore pulls less fuel in. Air flow and fuel flow into the combustion chamber is regulated and controlled by the butterfly on the carb. More air = more fuel which = more volume of the air fuel mixture which = higher rpm

 

The O&R governor vein needs to be connected directly into the butterfly slot on the carb. As the governor's flag is pushed away from the flywheel by air flow, it closes the butterfly, the faster the rpm, the harder it pushes. The spring on the bottom side of the butterfly shaft regulates this tension and therefore "governs" the engine speed.

Post a close up picture of that area of your engine

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We seem to be going round in circles here, we need pictures to better help with the carb, governor & idle screw issues.

 

David

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