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Yellow Mower Challenge!

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I have been watching your progress with this project and you are doing a superb job on what was in effect a basket case mower.

Re regrooving the tyres I am not sure how they will react to being machined as rubber can be notriously difficult to deal with, If you have little joy producing a good result then talk nicely to a local commercial tyre comany and ask if they can regroove them for you using a tyre regrooving gun, they cut the rubber using a heated blade and produce a good finish to the cut area.

Ray.

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I have been watching your progress with this project and you are doing a superb job on what was in effect a basket case mower.

Re regrooving the tyres I am not sure how they will react to being machined as rubber can be notriously difficult to deal with, If you have little joy producing a good result then talk nicely to a local commercial tyre comany and ask if they can regroove them for you using a tyre regrooving gun, they cut the rubber using a heated blade and produce a good finish to the cut area.

Ray.

Thanks Ray, and I'll check out what's local when I get around to sorting the Treads, just in case my plans and application fails .

 

Bit slow with just a brief update so far, mainly due to a few assembly problems I found. Main one being the L/H Threaded Freewheel/drive Pinion retaining screw (red arrowed in first pic) will no longer fully screw in comfortably. Suspected the internal thread was damaged when the Cylinder/Blades were held 'Between Centres' on various machines when rebuilt, so I have had to obtain a 1/4" L/H BSF Tap to recut the threads (in the post).  

The right hand side, I was able to deal with as it is standard R/H Thread and I had a Tap for that. 

 

The main Drive Chain (yellow arrow) needs replacing really, as it is slightly stretched and won't allow proper tension adjustment, having probs locating the exact spec chain (type 415 med duty). It is what is holding up the whole L/H Wheel assembly

 

One of the mods I had to make was the addition of a Bronze Bushing (blue arrow) to carry the newly made Clutch Guide Rod, as the hole was 'Egged Out' (more on this in next update) -

 

post-94-0-54235300-1414335341_thumb.jpg

 

Another observation I had made was when I fitted the Cylinder, there was a noticeable lack of clearance between the end of some of the Blades and the 1/2" Whitworth Stub Axle retaining nuts, too close for my liking, so I machined off the surplus ends of the nuts that did not engage with any thread to increase the clearance- 

 

post-94-0-81023700-1414335380_thumb.jpg

 

I've managed to finish most of the prep and painting of the remaining parts and are currently 'hardening up' at the moment (upper Handlebars had a lot of prep work due pitting).

Several other bits awaiting delivery, had a job finding suitable Bar Grips, but the ones I eventually found will look ok  and hopefully will start to look more complete by the end of the coming week and will post more pics then. 

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Made some progress, but not as far as I would have liked, so here's an update and few pics as well.

Just to go back to what the Clutch linkage looked like at the start with the corrosion and the iffy cable routing etc., we had something that looked like this (pics should enlarge if clicked on) -

 

post-94-0-57857200-1414869931_thumb.jpg

 

So as seen/mentioned in an earlier update, I was not happy with the corrosion after a clean up, so I reproduced new parts to correct spec and added a few improvements, many parts are now back to an unworn condition, together with the addition of a bronze bushing for the Rod, a stainless Cable Clip made/fitted to the top of the Clutch Fork, keeping it clear of moving parts and now looks like this-

 

post-94-0-06377800-1414870051_thumb.jpg 

 

The sheared stud/nut on the Clutch lever bracket, which used to look like this and shows the old iffy Throttle Cable routing-

 

post-94-0-63821200-1414869997_thumb.jpg

 

All refurbished and repaired, but a re-route of the throttle cable is required and now looks like this-

 

post-94-0-22754800-1414870059_thumb.jpg

 

Handlebars etc. finished and assembled, also shows replacement 'Barrel' style Grips. Lowering the Handlebars to the operating angle will give me the length and best route for the Cable-

 

post-94-0-48120000-1414870094_thumb.jpg

 

I'll probably have to dismantle,then remove the Cylinder because it appears the blades will fowl the Bottom Blade adjusters :( .

It could be that the finished Cylinder diameter is greater than the 6. 1/8" diameter I specified, and so will not allow the adjuster plates to move far enough back away from the knives-

 

post-94-0-69942200-1414870102_thumb.jpg

 

Add this problem to some Auction site purchase(s) received this week not being 'as described' :angry: , my progress is to be desired.

Never mind, it will take as long as it takes. Hopefully another update next week.    

 

 

  

 

        

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Hi Ian, hope the move went ok. Sorry for no updates, health issues getting in the way. probably won't get back to working on it this year.

Also going to have to start having a clear out etc. I'll awake this thread when I get back to it. Regards.

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Long time since I visited the forum (last year!!). Hope all are ok etc. I'm adapting to a few shortfalls in physical health (thanks Ian/Norm for your concern).

Still looking forward to the chance of spending time down in the Workshop when weather warms up.

Have been able to do a few little fiddly bits recently though.

 

Back in Post number #34 on page 2 of this 'Topic', I had a few jobs to finish on the Carb. A new Strangler (choke) Rod has been made up from 1/8" stainless steel and a 'Lift Knob' formed on the top. I also added a fibre washer and spring to prevent vibration wear and seal from dirt etc

The 2 Filter Body retaining screws also made.-

 

post-94-0-92462700-1422200413_thumb.jpg

 

Made up a new Throttle Cable, turning up some new nipples now that I've fixed the required length and route, the Villiers Throttle Lever also fully refurbed, but had to replace the Chromed Top Screw.

Original Cable Ties (2) shown just in top left of next pic will be re used-.

 

post-94-0-59981600-1422200422_thumb.jpg

 

Other little tinkering bits I'm managing to do are Fuel Tap(s).

The Fuel Tap on this mower is the Lever turn type (bottom in next pic). I thought I'd add a bronze Mesh screen filter (149 microns) like the one I made and fitted to the (1954) Ewarts Tap (right in pic) I'm refurbishing , but may make a 'Drop In' one that sits inside the Tank Filler neck.

The other (1964 chrome) Ewarts Tap on the left of pic is finished and from the Seagull Outboard and needed a new Brass Plunger made before fitting a new Cork on it-.  

 

post-94-0-96424800-1422200462_thumb.jpg

 

Here's hoping we have a good Spring 'n' Summer :fingerscrossed:  .  Lots to do, Places to go, People to see.

      

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Small update and brief in content. Finally got some time on the machines and started making parts for the Pull Start. 

The original layout shown here in the Parts Manual, along with the Modified and welded up parts. All beyond saving/using- 

 

post-94-0-51926800-1429787504_thumb.jpg

 

Not possible to reproduce parts to original spec exactly, as the Flywheel retaining Nut has been extended, which I find convenient, so I've made parts to accommodate that and so will be a one piece item when ready to fit (there is another Hexagonal bore behind the Rope-Pull Plate centre boss shown on the right in the pic) -

 

post-94-0-63866700-1429787544_thumb.jpg

 

Hoping for an opportunity to do more on this project soon.

 

  

 

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Thanks Ian, although work and progress is slow.

 

Fuel Tank done and finished with Fuel Proof Lacquer. Needs another week to cure fully. 

 

I changed the Pull Start layout again, did away with the inner Plate and made another Spacer Ring, so it is more like the original set up. Had to assume the finish was black.

The original Rope was washed and the ends finished with Whipping to reduce fraying. The Handle cleaned by sanding, impregnated with Raw Linseed Oil and polished smooth- 

 

post-94-0-89664400-1430770649_thumb.jpg

 

Throttle Cable routing done and stainless retaining clips made/fitted. It's rather a long 'S' type route, but it's smooth and there's no longer any strain where it enters the Carb. Lever is in good position too-

 

post-94-0-36235000-1430770663_thumb.jpg

 

Made new Blackened/ Oil hardened Flanged Washers for the Roller Shaft ends and the Shaft has been extended as described back at the start of page 3/post nbr #41 -

 

post-94-0-18273800-1430770638_thumb.jpg

 

Struggling with the Rear Rollers, namely finding quality old versions. I've used the ones off the 1954 Donor Mower, as they have the Brass Tube bore inserts, rather than just bored wood and are reasonable condition considering they've had 60 years use !.

I'll give them a good soak in wood hardener, fill some of the hollows, stain and apply several coats of Yacht Varnish. 

 

I decided to cut one (good one) in half and cut the worn ends off the 2 - 8 inch long Rollers.

This gave me 2 Roller sections on each side (original had 1 each side) of the new Spacer Tube.

At least they are the same as the original length and may assist in turning with less drag-

 

post-94-0-58991700-1430770706_thumb.jpg

 

One disadvantage this Mower had was that it had to be  tilted back onto the Rear Roller to pull the whole Mower when in Transit to and from Shed to Lawns, so they took a lot of punishment...I have a plan to eliminate this problem, but is another separate small project to deal with.

 

So as mentioned previously, the Cylinder (Reel) has got to come out to be ground down so I can fix the clearance issues with the Bottom Blade Carrier. Need to save some cash for that, but at least I can finish all the parts ready to assemble and see if the Engine will spring into life ok :fingerscrossed: .         

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Where did you get the Fuel Proof Lacquer from Richard?

 

I settled for Halfords stuff, as the old resin/polyurethane based fuel proof lacquer seems to be unavailable nowadays (set like glass and hard as nails).

This stuff is compatible with my paint and decal material/adhesive, and I did not need a large quantity. They (on the instruction label) still have to state that spillages must be cleaned off asap though. I had to do a few tests on various finishes to make sure it was ok before I bit the bullet and used it.

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Thanks Mark, Not a great deal of progress. Prepping the Rollers, a bit like watching paint dry really. They have been Treated with hardener.

After having been dried, they had the blemishes filled with hard filler. I then started to seal the surface with the Varnish.

I don't use brushes to apply it, as I fill the depressions first and build up a smooth surface by sanding in between coats.

Takes 36hours to harden each coat before sanding. Had 3 coats so far-

 

post-94-0-48314100-1431463313_thumb.jpg

 

Should be done and ready to fit by the weekend.

 

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Been undoing all the rebuild work to remove the Cylinder-

 

post-94-0-24355500-1432575861_thumb.jpg

 

Found it is a full 1/4inch greater in diameter than was specified and is why the blades are fouling the Bottom Blade Adjusters and just clears the underside of the Deck Panel.

 

Don't hold any hopes of assistance from the Fabricators, but have made enquiries. If no luck, I need to find someone to grind 1/8" off the Radius !! :( .

Can't afford to pour more big money into this, so I'll wait and see.  

 

 

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