Stormin 4,458 #1 Posted July 7, 2014 As one or two know I acquired a C-120 off Chris (The Showman) at Newby Hall. One of the things it required was a new nearside driveshaft seal. On removing the wheel and hub, I could detect some play in the bearing. After some thought I decided to replace the bearings as well. Left alone new seals would only wear quicker. The transmission was left to drain. Actually left for a couple of weeks. Today I thought I'd remove the trans, but I got a little carried away. Spot the missing bit. That's it so far. A rolling chassis and a pile of bits. The tin ware is in surprisingly good condition. Thankfully! Apart from the missing corner bit, no holes or gaps where there shouldn't be any. 2 WestwoodGazelle and Lauber1 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ian 2,417 #2 Posted July 7, 2014 It's very easy to get carried away when working on WH's That missing corner bit is a standard feature on C series, I've seen it loads of times. So what's your plans now you have pulled her apart Norm? Resto, worker or something different? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #3 Posted July 7, 2014 I think it could evolve into a bit of custom. Nothing too exotic or along your lines. Time will tell. Look how long it took me to get the C-81 back together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #4 Posted July 7, 2014 Do it at your speed Norm, it isn't a race !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 1,900 #5 Posted July 7, 2014 Good to see progress Norm! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the showman 4,074 #6 Posted July 7, 2014 That's a good start Norm, but the part you started to do is the only part you havnt taken off yet Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ian 2,417 #7 Posted July 8, 2014 I think it could evolve into a bit of custom. Nothing too exotic or along your lines. Time will tell. Look how long it took me to get the C-81 back together. I like the word "evolve".. Just make a start on it and see where the path leads you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #8 Posted July 8, 2014 That's a good start Norm, but the part you started to do is the only part you havnt taken off yet Oh yes it is Chris. The old seal is on the bench. I put the hub and wheel back on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #9 Posted July 8, 2014 Progress so far today. Chassis and trans split. A pile of bits. Just hope I can remember where everything goes. I have taken some photo's but probally not enough. Next, clean up the box and split. Typically only one drive shaft bearing needs replacing. But both will be done and anything else needed. Anything to watch out for as I split the box? Any particular way to do it without bits falling everywhere? 1 Dibnah reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #10 Posted July 8, 2014 Trans' box now in bits. Found lots of needle rollers in the bottom, cage from main ball bearing and the end of the dipstick. Main bearing, now extracted with assistance from a large tyre lever, hammer and thick cloth. The outer race of the needle roller bearing is proving more obstinate. Think I'll have to take it up to the farm and apply some heat to the case. I also found the drive pulley welded to its shaft. I may grind it off, or maybe just leave it alone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #11 Posted July 8, 2014 Perhaps its as well you had the trans to bits if there were bits in the bottom... Top job Norm, following this post with interest Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dibnah 19 #12 Posted July 8, 2014 Hi Norm, run a bead of weld around the groove in the outer race- this will shrink it and will tap out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #13 Posted July 8, 2014 Now why didn't I think of that. I've done that before. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #14 Posted July 9, 2014 I tried the weld bead. Didn't work. The trouble was the shell was so thin walled and I couldn't get behind it to knock it out. Got the farm gas bottles and got things nice and hot. The shell red hot. That softened the shell a bit and I was able to carefully squash it in with a chisel. Now all I need are bearings and seals. Now have I got this right? Needle roller bearing - 1-1/8 x 1-3/8 x 1. Axle seal SKF 11050. Brake shaft seal SKF 7410. Still can't make my mind up about the drive pulley. Leave on or try to get off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 1,900 #15 Posted July 9, 2014 haven't got numbers to hand but these are what i ordered. Axle 1-1/8 x 1-3/8 x 1/8 Brake 3/4 x 1 x 1/8 I would look at changing input shaft, all mine have leaked there!!! I'd get the pulley off - just to sort the seal. If you lose the end there's no huge detriment Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #16 Posted July 9, 2014 Sizes tally with seals I've removed, Mark. Numbers came from RS. Job for tomorrow if time. Pulley off. I'll see about getting the chassis and front axle blasted as well. The sooner it's a rolling chassis again the better. Found a plastic dustbin round the back of the shed. So I'll be having a go at making an E-tank for the other bits. BTW. How did this thread get hot so fast? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 1,900 #17 Posted July 9, 2014 E tank is a must, got some commando wheels in mine cooking at the moment. It's slow but incredibly low effort, so if you are patient it's a great way of cleaning.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ian 2,417 #18 Posted July 10, 2014 I'm with Mark, an E tank is the way to go.. Parts can be stewing in it giving you plenty of time to get on with other bits Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #19 Posted July 10, 2014 I got the drive pulley off this morning. Found why it had been welded on. No key. Next job to get the shaft seal out. No way was it coming out with shaft in place, so no choice but to remove the shaft. That started an in depth lesson in Wheel Horse transmission boxes. I'll not go into to much detail , suffice to say you do not need to remove the selector forks shafts. The detent balls can be a right pain to put back. Anyway, I now know what bearings and seals are required. I also now require the shoulder bolt for the high/low selector fork. Slight mishap and it's sapped the threads off. This is what it looks like if anyone can help with a replacement. In one piece, please. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ian 2,417 #20 Posted July 10, 2014 I can understand why the key was missing, it's very easy to push the key out when pushing the pulley on.. Don't it myself with realizing until I noticed I had no drive! Looks like your having fun with the trans Norm, Sorry I can't help you with the high/low selector fork bolt.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the showman 4,074 #21 Posted July 10, 2014 I'll have a look tomorrow Norm, ive got a 8 speed tranny in bits Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #22 Posted July 10, 2014 Thanks Chris. Just be careful. Mine snapped like a wet sock. Looking at the break it looks flawed though. Another little problem is the lift lever components. The R clips came out easy, but the centre tubing is well stuck on the shaft. I'll take it up to the farm tomorrow and apply some heat. Why do we start these things. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the showman 4,074 #23 Posted July 10, 2014 Bad news Norm, mines not the same. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #24 Posted July 10, 2014 Pleased about that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #25 Posted July 12, 2014 This arrived today. Many thanks to Chris. Should be a photo of a bolt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites