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factory

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About factory
 
 
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  • Gender Male
  • Location Cheshire UK
  • Interests Stationary engines and vintage electronics
 
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  1. Unknown applications

    Just been looking through some of the archived magazine articles I have saved from the web and found this drawing of a very similar looking pump set to the one in above picture. It's from the June 1961 edition of Popular Science and is described as a bilge pump. David
  2. O&R Type 98 Engine

    Also I had a go at bidding on a another type 98 engine (I asked the seller what type it was as it looked unusual), I didn't win it but here are some pictures of it showing the externally threaded PTO shaft mentioned in the parts list, together with an adaptor housing I haven't seen before. The adaptor housing looks like was attached to something flat, also note the long stop switch wire. Anyone seen one like this before? David
  3. O&R Type 98 Engine

    I've had a better look at the parts attached to the PTO shaft of this engine, it looks like an adaptor kit for something like a propeller, which doesn't help with identifying the original use. But I have found a reference in a parts list from 1964 for an externally threaded PTO shaft (part no. 42-39) being used on the type 98 engine, clearly mine doesn't have one, but it could have been changed as someone has definitely had this engine apart, the screws for the induction housing have been shortened too, so it probably had an adaptor plate or housing. David
  4. Mystery pump or compressor ?

    Does anyone recognise these dismantled remains of what looks like a small pump or compressor, which came with the dismantled O&R model L I got recently. David
  5. O&R Model L challenge

    This weekend I've finally had a bit of time to see if I could free up the seized piston, it was left to soak for a couple of days with some oil in the cylinder as I usually do, then I used the flywheel to turn it gently each way a little bit at a time until it was free. Once the piston was free to move, I could safely remove the cylinder without any further damage. It looks like this early engine had little or no use. I think I may have a spare con-rod somewhere, just need to locate it. Looks like it has the odd sized piston rings, although it shouldn't have according to a service bulletin (last used in 1961 with serial number 006072) as this is serial number 006403, I guess they still had a few left and used them all up. David
  6. O&R Model L challenge

    I collected a parcel a few weeks ago containing a mostly dismantled early O&R model L engine, complete with a seized piston & bent con-rod. I will see how far I can rebuild it, I know the cover for the clutch housing is missing as well as most of the screws. It seems to be quite rare to find the model letter still on the decal. A view of the bent con-rod. David
  7. New Additions

    That's a very nice restored chainsaw & hedge cutter, the engine with the reduction gearbox looks like new too (any idea what the type/model number is? I can try & find out the output speed if you would like). The parts engine looks like it may have come off a hedge cutter. David
  8. Bridges Mini-Mota 3 speed drill

    The fuel tanks seem to disappear on all types of O&R engine not just this drill, I guess the cracked one could be repaired (mine has been soldered on one of the seams). Do you know anyone that could make a new tank using the original as a pattern? (a model engineer maybe), unless someone has a spare tank of course. There are three possible part numbers for the con-rod depending on the age of the engine (due to bearing size changes over the years), if the engine dates from 1964 or later and is a Compact II (0.85HP) or Compact III (1HP) then the part number is 31-3 according to the information I have, the Bridges Mini-Mota manual in post four of this thread also gives the same part number. Early Compact engines (no HP decal but are 3/4HP) from 1960 to 1962 use part number 31-1, I am missing the 1963 parts list so can't confirm if part number 31-2 is for that year. Rupert Ledger & Co. Ltd of Airfield Estate, White Waltham, Maidenhead in Berkshire (also at 28 Mackenzie St. Slough according to an older service directory list) were the main sales representative and central warehouse distributor for Europe. Have you already found the other common problems with these engines, i.e. the carb diaphragm, air filter foam and sometimes the crankshaft seals? David
  9. Avometer 8 Mark 5

    For your information; the batteries are only needed for the resistance (ohms) ranges, the voltage & current (amps) ranges will work fine without them. David
  10. O&R engine nitro converted

    I did see that one last week and knew what it came off too, the seller stated that "WE PULLED THE PULL CORD BUT IT DOES NOT MOVE" was there anything wrong or was it just stuck with dried out oil from long term storage? The starter mechanism has definitely been repaired at some point in the past (a common problem), only three of the screws are fitted & they aren't original. David
  11. Tiny Tiger gas tank repair

    I take it the original air filter was missing? they are often missing as Webhead said (although not every application used them & some of the saws had different types fitted). The replacement you've made looks very nice, anyone with access to a lathe should be able to make one too, no idea if it would be profitable to sell them though (also there is still an incorrectly listed original one on ebay). The manual states that the slot in the top of the cylinder should be either in-line with the crankshaft or at right angles to it, you've got it correctly fitted. David
  12. Tiny Tiger gas tank repair

    Well done and thanks for sharing the pictures, I've never seen the inside of one of those tanks before, will have to have a go at replacing the filter in mine sometime. Seal-All seems to be available over here as well as Threebond (Yamabond?), there are probably others that would work if you read through the data-sheets and check how others have got on with them, also check the shelf-life too (seems to be two years for Seal-All). Note; I've removed the reference to epoxy resin from my earlier post as it doesn't look suitable. David
  13. Orline Mustang trouble

    Do you mean this check valve? Which can sometimes cause problems or fail completely on early engines. Or the check ball in the carb diaphragm bowl? Which can stick closed even after cleaning (but that doesn't sound like it would cause too much fuel/gas to pass through, unless stuck open or the spring is missing). Note there are two different sizes of this check ball depending on the age of the carb (earlier ones had the small one shown below). I definitely would check these first before taking the engine apart, if you do strip the engine do prepared for the bearing rollers that can drop out (have something underneath to catch them). David
  14. Tiny Tiger gas tank repair

    Be careful with any tank that has had fuel/gas in recently if using a blow-torch for heat. I was thinking to push the base off with something through the filler neck too, once the old glue has been softened with heat. This is the type of in-line filter (Sullivan No.187) I bought for my engines, picture below borrowed from ePay. David
  15. Orline Mustang trouble

    The picture below shows the O ring I was talking about, it seals where the screw that passes through the induction housing intake that is behind the carb, it often drops out unnoticed. The arrow shown in the picture below indicates where the screw passes through the induction housing intake. There are two seals on the back-shaft (PTO) and another in the gearbox output shaft (that shouldn't cause the problems you are having, it would just leak oil out around the output shaft for the chain sprocket). David
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