29 posts in this topic

Can't remember exactly when, but part way through the early stages of the build it was thought a good idea to see if the engine would run.  It had only been roughly assembled up to now so  carb cleaned, new fuel pipe fitted, bolts tightened and so on.  The recoil starter was a problem.  I had 3 of these, 1 complete and 2 in pieces.  The complete unit was fitted but locked up when the cord was pulled.


I had this apart 4 times before finding the problem.  A missing spacer washer.  Wasn't sure if this washer should have been there but it did the trick. One of the other units had one, the other didn't.   After the 4th assembly I was getting the hang of fitting the recoil spring.


Clamped to the bench, petrol in the tank, starter pulled, and pulled and pulled, nothing.  No spark.  :(  Cover off, points cleaned, they were furred up, and away it went.  There was a knock which appeared to be from crankshaft end float.   A PM to Richard ( Anglo Traction )  who suggested that the knock might disappear when the engine was under load.  This proved to be the case.  Thanks Richard. :thumbs:  A few bench test runs followed and the engine appeared good to go.



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This photo shows the chassis on 4 wheels, still with the first style front hubs and with new tyres fitted.  Tread wrong way around I know, wheels just roughly mounted.  The front tyres are 9 x 3.50 x 4 made for mini motor cycles fitted to the Bolens 4" hubs.  The 9" tyre was better proportion wise than the 10" previously fitted although I have not been able to find an inner tube with a straight valve.  The bent valve finished up hard against the rim when inflated.  A little mod later improved things.  No photo of this yet.




The height difference of 2:3/4" between the engine and gearbox shafts can be seen. Just by chance an old Picador double bearing found at John's had the same C/L's and with a slightly cut down base was a perfect fit.   Now what to use to transmit the drive from top to bottom.  Sprockets and chain from old mowers were dug out.  Most were too large to fit between the frame or were double sprockets.  The smaller sections were cut off and after trying various combinations things started to look workable.




After trying various chain lengths, too short or too long, a cut down mower tensioner was fitted but didn't look right.  Another sprocket was found which fitted between the frames but had the wrong ID.  This was bored out and welded to the gearbox sprocket ( thanks Chris ) after mounting the pair on a suitable size bolt.  After this, the existing keyway in the small sprocket was used as a guide to file out the larger one.  The result was a nice tap fit on the gearbox shaft and key and also after altering the chain did away with the need of the tensioner although this could be refitted later.







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The original sprocket and part of the tubular shaft, both too large in diameter, were cut from the clutch housing.  This was extended with a correct length and diameter replacement which was a VERY tight push in fit.  For push in I should say helped with a hammer. This was drilled for a roll pin as was the replacement sprocket.  Although the other end looked like it would never move this was also drilled and pinned while I was at it.




The gearbox sprocket was not in line with it's big brother on the axle.  It needed to be moved inwards about 1/4".  A slice was carefully cut off with a thin cutting disc in my Dremel, held as steady as possible as these discs break almost by looking at them.  I got almost all the way through before the disc mounting shaft bottomed out.  The last bit was done from the opposite side.  No photo's of this operation but before and after shots with the sprocket back on the gearbox.  The section cut off, first photo, now moved to the outside. 





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