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Some photos from BVAA show at kelso this weekend

Hi all, Before I start I would like to say I am more or less a fibreglass novice, I have done some basic car body repair jobs before but nothing fancy, and this is just for fun. I do not claim to be a master fibreglass worker/molder or even a good one However I wanted to see if I could build a Westwood grille (the type that was used from the Gazelle to the early T and D series tractors). These grilles look pretty cool in my opinion and I wanted to see if I could recreate one out of fibreglass. So I needed a mold, and given I have lots of amateur experience with concrete I decided there's no kill like overkill and I would use that for the mold (cast?). So to start off I needed to use a spare grille I have as a base, and I covered it in tin foil with pritt-stick. I am happy to say this resulted in no damage to the grille after I removed it. Then it was time to build up the concrete mold, using a mixture of 4 parts sharp sand, and 1 part cement powder, and using screws and nails and scrap metal to increase the strength. The mold is now finished, and I will post a picture of it below.

Propper beeswax polish the mould like crazy and then use releasing agent, works every time

From memories of canoe building there is a mould release agent which you can spray or paint into the mould before you apply the gel coat , the gel coat is very smooth and should not stick, allow to dry before stippling in the fibre and resin.

Where I started work there was a fibreglass department. The moulds were made of wood and smeared with silicone grease I think. It was a while ago. Another way would be to make a mould using the original as a mould for the mould. If you follow me.

And here is the finished mold, I will begin the fibreglassing process soon. Before I begin the fibreglass build I wondered if anyone had any suggestions on how to stop it sticking the the mold. I have fibreglass releasing wax, does anyone know if this should be adequate?