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How to alter the gear lever so that it pointed rearwards instead of to the right as it was when originally fitted to the ride on Bolens mower. The lever was fitted to the top of the box and operated horizontally back and forward but to get the arrangement I needed, ( I had turned the box 90 degrees to line up the input shaft with the engine ) resulting in the selector shaft pointing to the rear. No problem except that the right hand rear wheel and chassis frame would have restricted the lever movement plus access for my hand. The solution was to cut the lever from it's mounting plate, turn 90 degrees and refix. The idea was to drill and tap the plate, thread the shaft and weld up. Turned out that the plate was extra hard. The center punch lost the fight and I expect the drills would have too. A nut was fitted to the lever to help keep it at right angles to the plate then all welded up. Thanks again Chris. The first photo shows the original position ( taken after I had cut off and threaded ) followed by the end result. The long straight of the lever was lined up with the mounting hole in the plate so that when fitted it would be in line with the gearbox shaft. A bit of tweaking was needed later to cancel out slight eccentricity. Hope that sounds right. A photo of the lever fitted in place. A support bearing was needed in the rear cover plate through which the lever would pass. A long dig for something suitable unearthed the component shown below. Two were found, one with a 3/8 needle bearing although a plain bush would have done. No idea what they were originally for, but after trimming and drilling one it slid nicely over the not quite round and slightly dinged lever. The end of the lever was dimpled so that the bolt had something to bite into after being threaded through the bush which also has two grub screws for added security. The bolt still needs cutting down for appearance, or something better made, but works well as it is. In reverse gear as shown. Push down for neutral then the other gears. When the tractor and trailer is finished, a suitable gear will be found and probably left with speed being controlled with the throttle and centrifugal clutch.

The Border Reiver has had transmission problems has now been reborn and christen Border Reiver mk2 with new transmission and its going to be adopting some parts and new attachments Will add photo later of restoring rotovator. Going to put up Christmas tree

As Chris pointed out, I made a bit of an error with the arms. Today I set too to correct it. But how to drill holes in the other ends accurately? I don't possess vee blocks. Can't do them in the lathe. So I had to think of some other way. I finally did them as below in the photo. Wasn't exactly easy keeping things square, but taking my time things came out OK. I used one of the extension sleeves as a guide for a drill to spot the centre. Then I drilled the spindle using three different sized drills, finishing with the tapping size. Next the holes were threaded 10mm and the stub axle on the arms cut off to 3/4" long. See photo below. The next job was to shorten the trailer stub axles to 1/2" long. Cut them down to 5/8", then into the lathe to be faced down, drilled and bored out 3/4" I.D. x 1" deep. Below all ready to weld up.

Just to add to the recent topic here, A picture of a tractor which will be on show at Tractor World in March along with my Anzani four wheeler and Garden tool Display should be a great weekend

Hi HeadExam The machine is a Auto Culto Junior built around 1959 the rotavator was only one of many attachments suitable for use with this machine they were built at Reading in the uk , The engine is a 3hp Villiers MK 15 overhead valve that is what is in the box thanks for your interest