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I made an aluminum base plate based on DustyB's picture provided. Thanks again DustyB! I used an old scrap speed limit sign I had and cut it out of that. Believe it or not, I was able to find locally, NOS 10-32 Palnuts. It was an all or none purchase so now I have around 80-100 of these... I was not able to find any feet that were close to original so I decided to use what I had, and since I have extra Palnuts, I used them as fasteners on the feet as well. Not correct as original, but it all matches nicely and I think it looks good...

It was now time to replace the floors and the boot floor but what I still cannot understand is why a car built in Coventry in 1937 was using metric plywood, I was sure that it was 1/2" thick but I measured various pieces and they were all bang on 12 mm, maybe just as well since you can't get imperial plywood. I checked availability of 12 mm marine ply on internet and a local builders merchant had in stock but it was about £85 plus a £15 delivery charge for an 8 x 4 sheet, thought this was steep but then it was a case of - hell the car only cost a fiver, go for it. I decided to go and order in person and sitting behind the salesman was the manager who lived across the road from where my partner had stayed, after a brief how are you etc. he called across and said give him a good discount and deliver it for free, I got it for £33 delivered. Not what you know but who you know right enough. The old front seat base and steel rear footwell new front seat bases with refurbished rear footwell that only needed a couple of 2" square patches welded in The boot floor was next but it had originally been covered with rexine which doesn't stretch and you can only get leathercloth these days and the non stretch doesn't appear to come in green.

Now that most of the framing was done and the body now firmly attached to the chassis I welded in some repair panels to the inner wheelarches and screwed and bolted them down giving the structure more strength. As I had good access to springs and hangers I checked for wear and found that my father had only done the front ones - these were well worn so an E-Mail to the PNTMC soon had a new set of spring pins and bushes delivered. With springs off I also wire brushed the really solid chassis of loose surface rust and gave it a coat of paint before refitting the spring on one side and when I came out the following day found a new nut with a broken off thread in it lying on the floor. The chassis spring pin had sheared off, and I hadn't tightened it to that extent. On closer examination it seemed to be a brittle break and when I tested it with a file it was really hard all the way through, unfortunately I no longer have contacts that could do a proper hardness check for me but armed with a good file I began to investigate. The original pin was so hard on the surface that the file just bounced off as it did on the new pin but on the worn section it had a feel similar to a high tensile bolt. Obviously the original pin was case hardened and the new one was made from through hardening material and had not been tempered. I advised the club of my problem and a new pin was supplied but before fitting I tempered both pins with a torch to reduce the hardness and increase the toughness to something resembling a high tensile bolt. Since the car would not be doing thousands of miles wear on the pin should not be an issue whereas a failure of the pin during use could be a real danger on the road.

A bit more done on the snow plough. This time we worked on the blade swivel bracket. We already had a swivel bracket from a different tractor which needed to be modified. A lot of work went into modifing this and it might have been easier to make one from scratch

Usually 20thou” . Often stamped into the points cover.

That came out NICE ! If interested you can make a rubber spark plug cap with Plasti Dip

Great job that looks really neat !

Very nice, that turned out great! Looks better than new! The palnuts are also a nice touch.