Stormin

Tally Ho!

I take it the BFH came into frequent use. That yellow is rather bright.

Relief is an understatement, Alan. Next job is to get the Black Horse ready for a ploughing match in March.

Trans flush and refilled. Also engine oil changed. When I came to adjust the governor, I found the arm was loose on the spindle. That was because the pinch bolt was not tight. When I came to tighten it, the nut fell off. Along with that end of the bolt. New bolt fitted and the governor works as it should. The tractor is already now to go to it's new home. Being collected some time next week. I'd like to thank those who have given me advice and support. Much appreciated.

The rectifiers arrived last night much to my surprise. Not supposed to be here 'till Monday at the earliest. Fitted one this morning and all is well. Ammeter showing a nice charge. Am I a happy bunny or what. It's been a right pain, but I now know a little bit more about electrics. All that's left now is to flush the trans and refill with fresh oil, change engine oil and a little adjustment to the governor.

Great work, Richard. I can understand why my mother said, she hardly saw my father when he was building his. Home from work, had his dinner, then disappeared into his shed. Supposedly over an 18 month period.

Thanks for that, Angus. I've put that in my documents for future reference.. The rectifiers I have are the 15amp ones. The tractor is one of the early C-125s. 1981. My own C-125, '82 model, doesn't have that type of rectifier. I've ordered two like the one Chris put photo's on earlier. I should get them sometime next week. Hopefully a new rectifier will end the saga. One thing that's come out of this is, I now know a bit more about electrics than I did.

Keeping the patina look then, Ewan.

Put everything back together this morning. Fired up the engines and tested for current from the replacement stator. Showing a nice 30amps. Checked across the battery terminals and did I see 14amps? No! I think I'll have to get another rectifier or two.

Nice set of hole punches, Chris. Dinning table got lots of little ringed grooves in it now?

I don't doubt it.

I forgot to mention the faulty p.t.o. safety switch. Another thing that had been bodged. Now relegated to the scrap bin.

That bit is Nigel, but it was still not charging. So I decided to have a look at the stator. Took off the engine cover etc. Undoing the screws holding the screen on, strange noises emanated from behind the flywheel. No need to guess what was making them. Removing the fly wheel revealed a sorry stator and magnets in a right state. If you'll pardon the pun. Bit of a mess and no wonder it wasn't charging. All is not lost though. A Raider 10 engine I rebuilt a while ago, has donated it's flywheel and stator. Tomorrow I'll reassemble things and hopefully all will be well.

I've done as you suggested, Angus and as I already knew the red wire is passing current. But good to check. I then swapped switches with my C-125. That proved the switch is OK. I then had an idea. I ran a new wire from switch to solenoid. Guess what? Cured the motor running problem. Wiring fault in the harness I guess. Why didn't I think of that in the first place? Still showing no charge on the ammeter so I'll check the charging system again. These things are sent to try us. And they don't try us by halves. BTW. Faulty electrics are the in thing round here. Power cut for over four hours last night and a short half hour one this morning. That makes something like seven in two months.

First one some kind of aid for when fitting tyres?

He was probably thinking of tea.

Well done Chris. I know you've cleaned up and filled the centre, but I'd also tape it to protect the tube. But you'll have already thought of that no doubt.

All the Best, Scott.

82 Richard. A new switch has been fitted and connections checked. Several times. Same result. Switch on and starter motor engages. When engine stops turning, without starting and Bendix returns, starter motor continues to run until switch turned off. Took a solenoid off my C-125 and tried that with the same result. I'm suspecting a wiring fault. There are no safety switches fitted and the wires have been joined together. Live to negative. I'm thinking of running two new wires too the solenoid. Bypassing those in the harness. Also may swap the starter motor and the ammeter. Though I can't see either of those being the problem. I'm beginning to wish I'd never seen the darn thing. I've just realised something on reading back. When the key was originally in the on position, the ammeter showed a discharge but did not energise the starter. Oh boy! The plot thickens. I'll go back over everything I've done.

I've made enquiries on RS about the switch wiring.

If it's badly corroded all over, scrap it.

Going to try that tomorrow if I'm in the mood.

You could weld a patch on the inside and use filler on the outside?

I noticed the other day something I had not noticed before. When starting the engine, I go right from on, to the start position. I have now discovered that the starter is turning the engine as soon as the key is turned on and before the start position. If the engine doesn't start and the key released to go back to the on position, the starter motor is still running. Though not engaging the ring gear. Can't be heard with the engine running of course. Switch problem? Got a new switch today and fitted it this afternoon. Same thing happening. I'm thinking two things. (1) The wiring has been messed about a bit at sometime. There is no plug on the harness to the switch. Female connectors on the wires. 4 wires. Red. Orange. Green. Black. I need to know which wire connects to which terminal. Just in case they have been connected wrongly. The wiring diagram doesn't show that, as it is supposed to have a plug connector. (2) Is the starter solenoid faulty. Maybe sticking in start mode. Can it be tested? I hope all that makes sense. Any help gladly accepted before I go doolally and set fire to the thing