CNew

I’m tempted to avoid disturbing the wires and will use some plastidip or liquid tape first to see if it’ll work. Thanks for the thoughts on the bearing, I’ll hold off on it as well.

Yeah, I couldn’t really get a very good photo of the wire. It’s the black one and it look so like it has a single crack that goes all the way around the wire. I was thinking of maybe plastidip or liquid electrical tape but that would still leave the corrosion down inside the wire, maybe there’s not enough corrosion to cause problems...

These were the only references I could find, and a price sheet.

Finally got it all apart. The flywheel key was welded in place so that took more time than anything to finally dig out. Any recommendations on whether or not to fix the wire and replace the bearing? A previous owner also totally ruined the fuel pick up tube so I’ll have to make my own version.

Awesome, thanks David! Some gentle taps and I was able to get it free. It was indeed the magnetism that was holding it on. Now the fun part, removing the core section... One of the wires has a crack in it with some corrosion. Should I go through the pain of pulling this apart to fix the wire? Would it be a good idea to also replace the bearing on the end of the core shaft? Looks like a fairly standard 6201Z bearing. This one spins freely but there’s never a better time that when it’s all opened up...

I decided it’s finally time I go through a Tiny Tiger. Seems a little strange that I haven’t done one of these yet. Can someone point me to the Tiny Tiger rebuild thread that Wallfish did, I wasn’t having any luck finding it? I didn’t get very far before I hit a roadblock. I’m trying to remove the generator section and it’s not pulling all the way apart. It moved maybe 1/8” before feeling like it’s got something else holding it in place. Is there a nut or bolt behind the little plug cover that is in the very center on the rear of the case (last photo)? It looks like someone has been in this one before as the little plug cover is bent up and wasn’t centered well when they put it back in so it’s all jammed up. If I have to remove this it’s probably going to be completely ruined after prying it out.

I don’t know about you guys but I finally got tired of chipping paint when removing the recoil cover screws. It turns out that Wera makes some narrow shaft bits that looked ideal. I got one and then took it to the grinder to shape it to the right size. I followed that with a small piece of shrink tubing. This gives a very nice clearance now between the screwdriver shaft and the little recesses on the recoil cover. Hopefully no more scraped paint anymore...

Yeah, already had to do some minor touch up. The engine and recoil cowl took a little more work to line up and get secured to the tank so I accidentally nicked the paint by the recoil cover screws. All fixed now but frustrating in the moment...

Thought I would add a couple more photos in different lighting. When I looked at it his morning without the lights on it actually looked much better for taking pictures. I think these show the yellow much better- it has just the right hint of red in it.

It’s a square o-ring like the one that usually goes on the induction case. The handle of the saw wiggles up and down ever so slightly and the o-ring kind of cushions it, probably helps the paint from chipping off in that area too.

After a lot of hunting I found a piece of old vintage cable cover on ePay that was actually the right size. A little rusty but that cleaned up pretty easily, just some surface oxidation. I wish the seller had more of it but at least it was enough to complete the saw.

It’s been a slow project but finally on the home stretch. A big THANKS to Wallfish for getting me going with the bones of this really cool saw. With his advice I was able to harvest an engine and a few other parts from an old Orline Mustang. Original paint was too far gone for a refresh so it was time for a complete restoration. Webhead is fixing me up with a hook screw for the muffler since this saw has the little exhaust collector extension and it needs to be about 3” long. I was able to find some cable conduit in the right diameter and made a new throttle cable for it. Hopefully when Titch has some time maybe he can get a decal made up as the finishing touch. I had forgotten about the bark rest piece until Wallfish reminded me and of course I’d already finished painting everything else so that piece is late to the game but drying now (it’s already 104 in AZ so dry time should be faster). Finding a good paint match was a bit more challenging than I thought it would be, must have gone through about four different reds and 6 yellows but I think I landed on a pretty good match all said and done. Yellow is really hard...

Very nice! The more I look at this the more I like it, that’s a really cool way to house the clutch. Love the engineering... Any idea what sort of application this might have been used for? Thats a really nice looking engine as well!

Very nice David, cool to see the original document with suggested tools. Your version looks pretty straightforward as well. I was about to make something similar when I came across this drag link socket. Up until now I had been using a small pry bar, the width of the claw was just right but the angle was always just very awkward and made it challenging especially for heads that were really tight. Not to mention putting the head back on and tightening it was Less than ideal. I’m looking forward to giving this new socket a go on the next project.

This probably isn’t new to anyone but I thought I would share a handy tool for removing the cylinder head on an O&R. A good old drag link socket makes a perfect tool for this. I have this one that is about 3/16” thick and 1 1/16” wide.

Had a similar experience recently, maybe not quite as bad but enough I had to finally walk away from it... that thing looks really really awesome!

Small world, glad I was able to get this one. Sorry to hear it didn’t go so well when you tried for it a couple years ago. As far as I know it’s the oldest engine I have.

wish I could help with the measurements!

That’s pretty cool, I’ve never run into one that early.

That does seem a little strange - maybe someone has been in there before and forgot some parts. On a recent one I did I found someone also left out some of the exhaust spacers and gaskets.

Nice set! I’ve thought about just buying a single punch that is the filter size, might still look for one. Osborne makes some large punches and I can probably find a used one.

Silly question, but what sort of tool do you use to get such precise cuts on your foam filters?

Definitely use high quality gas without ethanol, avoid pump gas. I get a high quality small engine gas from a good mower store for my mixes- no ethanol in my units!

Nice- maybe that was part of a special edition kind of like the chromed out Orline Mustang chainsaw... anxious to see that once you have it all back together!

Awesome, glad you got it running- always a great feeling! I’ve been using a 32:1 mix with Stihl and it seems to work fine. I’ve also had decent success using a little in-line filter called a “crap trap” made by a Sullivan for RC applications. Just do a google search for Sullivan crap trap and it should come up, usually about $7-8.