CNew

I just finished swapping out the points. That seemed to do the trick. I think the points that were in there weren’t really making a connection, they seemed to be worn at odd angles or someone sanded them poorly. Just ran a carb worth of gas, sounded great. I may rig up a small tank tomorrow so I can try to run it a little longer.

I just finished swapping out the points. That seemed to do the trick. I think the points that were in there weren’t really making a connection, they seemed to be worn at odd angles or someone sanded them poorly. Just ran a carb worth of gas, sounded great. I may rig up a small tank tomorrow so I can try to run it a little longer.

I just finished swapping out the points. That seemed to do the trick. I think the points that were in there weren’t really making a connection, they seemed to be worn at odd angles or someone sanded them poorly. Just ran a carb worth of gas, sounded great. I may rig up a small tank tomorrow so I can try to run it a little longer.

You've just rebuilt a later Comet C/Saw, did you not note the engine Type (I can't see it clearly in any of your pictures)?
 
I found this engine in my archived Comet pictures; with the correct stop switch, notches in the mounting flanges & no hole in the carb for the air cleaner screw, it's also a Type 110.


 
David

The cooling baffle indicates it's probably from a circular saw. I don't remember ever seeing those on other tools.

Next up is my Type 110. The internals on some of these earlier models are so different from the later engines.

If you could find a source, something like these would also be suitable with some modification to the pickup tube.

 
David

New test stand ready to go...

New test stand ready to go...

Thought I would test out an idea on this gas tank repair on the cheap since I’ve got it opened up. When I heated the bottom to loosen the epoxy seal the heat deformed the plastic cone that holds the fuel filter screen on the end of the pickup tube.  I basically modified a 1/8 x 1/8 compression fitting. I drilled out the center so it could slide on the pickup tube all the way through to make it adjustable and easier to set it at the right position just above the bottom of the tank base plate. I then punched out a 1/4” piece of fuel screen and secured it all in place.

Finally got the “J” mounted for display. I’ve got it bookending my workbench on one side and the cut-away engine on the other.
 

Thought I would test out an idea on this gas tank repair on the cheap since I’ve got it opened up. When I heated the bottom to loosen the epoxy seal the heat deformed the plastic cone that holds the fuel filter screen on the end of the pickup tube.  I basically modified a 1/8 x 1/8 compression fitting. I drilled out the center so it could slide on the pickup tube all the way through to make it adjustable and easier to set it at the right position just above the bottom of the tank base plate. I then punched out a 1/4” piece of fuel screen and secured it all in place.

Now that I have the “J” engine mounted on display, I decided to make another stand for engine testing. Just finished up drilling and tapping the holes as well as the grinding and sanding. I’m going to use the nice spongy wide footprint vibration damping feet on this one.  Hopefully I can paint it this week.
 

Thought I would test out an idea on this gas tank repair on the cheap since I’ve got it opened up. When I heated the bottom to loosen the epoxy seal the heat deformed the plastic cone that holds the fuel filter screen on the end of the pickup tube.  I basically modified a 1/8 x 1/8 compression fitting. I drilled out the center so it could slide on the pickup tube all the way through to make it adjustable and easier to set it at the right position just above the bottom of the tank base plate. I then punched out a 1/4” piece of fuel screen and secured it all in place.

Thought I would test out an idea on this gas tank repair on the cheap since I’ve got it opened up. When I heated the bottom to loosen the epoxy seal the heat deformed the plastic cone that holds the fuel filter screen on the end of the pickup tube.  I basically modified a 1/8 x 1/8 compression fitting. I drilled out the center so it could slide on the pickup tube all the way through to make it adjustable and easier to set it at the right position just above the bottom of the tank base plate. I then punched out a 1/4” piece of fuel screen and secured it all in place.

Back to work this week sent my wife to Florida for a few weeks .  I will go down on Saturday for a few days
its hard to getaway this time of year. Got the tank cleaned out today and I am repairing were the battery acid
melted the plastic on the lower screw that holds it to the tank. ( best to take the battery's out
The battery acid seems to eat in to the plastic.
 

Finally got the “J” mounted for display. I’ve got it bookending my workbench on one side and the cut-away engine on the other.
 

All back together now...
 

I'll get a picture of the inside later today, the arm doesn't have a hole in it and the 1/16" balls that I bought are a perfect fit, so I'm thinking that's what type it is. 
The air cleaner did have foam, but I cleaned it all out. The engine was very clean overall and has excellent compression. I'll open up the gearbox and see what's in there and give it a good cleaning. My "weekend" actually runs into next week, so maybe I have time lol
Thanks for all the input, I'll get further into it maybe this evening, and take more pictures. I'm glad I found this forum, and appreciate the help!!

Welcome to the forum!  That’s a great outboard you have there.  There are two size balls used for those carbs, 1/16 and 3/32 so not sure which one you have. Do you have a photo of the inside where the ball seats?  The little rod that the spring legs ride on is not easy to find but I’ve had success just cutting one from small piece of rod or something, even used a heavy duty paper clip once.  Or, you can go a more precise route and get the correct diameter rod at a hobby store. K&S makes a bunch of small rod, brass tubing, etc. and a lot of good ACE hardware stores even carry it.  I believe the little roller rod is 0.063-0.065” in diameter.
 
Also, be sure to click the Ohlsson Rice home page as there is a really good carburetor rebuild tutorial if you get stuck.

I was given what was described as a "really small outboard" which turned out to be one attachment of many that were available. I wanted to get it running, but when I took the carb apart the check ball was missing, as well as the roller that goes under the spring. Does anyone know the diameter of the roller? I'd like to get it running this weekend so I can take it to the lake! 

Looks great Clint your on a roll. I may send you a half dozen of mine so you will have something to do

Yes, the 6/67DAAK01-67-C-1182 (they had a typo) looked familiar to me so I jumped on it. I figured even if wasn’t the Type 133 like I was hoping, that any NOS O&R engine was worth $28.

Got the urge to play with the drill press out in the 120F garage. Decided to build another stand.  I think this one will be good for engine test runs.
 

Not exactly what I thought I would be working on next but I picked this up yesterday from a guy out in the desert. It has such a great sweaty patina and I’m going to try to preserve it as much as possible. I plan to go through it and hopefully get all the internals fixed up and in good working condition but only do minimal cleaning to the rest of the unit. Something about this one just has a great look to me the way the age and color have changed over time.
 
I started dismantling in and ran into my first problem. I can’t seem to free the generator rotor shaft from the crankshaft. I’ve tried the usual things like smacking the mounting bolt, etc. but nothing is working.  Does anyone else have any ideas?  At first I thought I was going to get lucky with the wiring because it looked intact but after closer inspection several wires are cracked entirely in half and I can see the expected corrosion. So I’ll have to re-do that too. I’m going to have to find another bearing as well