Wristpin

Line 'em up on a well ventilated shelf, and hook each to a "maintenance" charger once a month. keeping them charged protects against sulphation and frost.
I have my stand-by generator permanently hooked to a C-tek charger .

Great pictures - but its only a tiddler!
 
https://uk.usembassy.gov/the-american-embassy-london-chancery-building/embassy_chancery_with_eagle_750x450/

A wire from the coil to points and a wire from external condenser to same terminal.Make sure that you have the correct thickness gasket between the cover and the crank case. Without that the points may earth out to the cover. In many applications the condenser is anchored under one of the engine mounting bolts.
Edit
The "book" points gap is 20thou but experience gleaned the hard way suggests that they perform better at 18thou - long story!

If it's an unmolested 60s machine it will have been fitted with contact breaker points under the flywheel so assuming that it's not been updated to an electronic system, you have a choice, remove the flywheel and clean the points or find a used working electronic coil (Magnetron) and fit it in place of the existing one. A Magnetron coil is identifiable by a "lump" between one armature leg and the coil. Fitting a Magnetron coil avoids having to remove the flywheel either then or ever again! *
If you are going for the points and assuming that your machine has a top mounted starter (pull the rope out sideways) it has a stater clutch which must be removed before you can tackle the flywheel. There is a tool to grip the lugs of the clutch which unscrews anti clockwise but with care a block of wood and a hammer or even stillsons will do the job. Under the clutch is a Belleville washer - note which way up it goes.  The flywheel is probably drilled for a puller but with care can be removed without the "proper" tool. However do not use a legged puller around the rim and at all costs don't hit the starter clutch spigot with a steel hammer - preferably don't hit it at all!  Get the fingers of one hand under the flywheel, take the weight of the machine and tap the keyway side of the flywheel sharply with a copper hammer. With a bit of luck the flywheel will release. If you have a side mounted (pull up) starter there will be no clutch but a nut.
From there on in, clean the points, remove the plunger and clean it and make sure that it is free moving, refit the points and set to 20thou.Refit the flywheel (note that it should have an aluminium key not steel) and tighten the clutch to 55ft lbs or **tight.
 
* The book will say that when carrying out a conversion the flywheel should be removed and the points actuating plunger replaced with a blanking plug , but.............!
 
 

Talking gas flow; while the manifolds are off its worth checking that the passages exactly match the gaskets and head ports  - same with the inlets. Back in the day the alignments on some engines was so bad that grinding a bit off here and there was the cheapest extra couple of horses to be found.

Is it such a good idea to publicise that valuable kit may now be housed in less secure premises? Not everyone watching the forum may have honourable intentions.

Sue the father in the small claims court for the sum needed to put you back in the position you were before his son demolished your van.
 

I have managed to dig out the relevant 600 series information and you will see that the 668 is listed with no sign of the right angle box which supports my original theory that it was an "add on". Peerless made a bewildering assortment of right angle drives so it may be that with a bit more scrubbing your box may reveal an id plate of its own. If it does I may have the parts break down for it.
Going back to the variations within the 600 series family the difference between the individual variants is often just the axle lengths or the type of keyway on the axles.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t3zrvz6q4ochd96/Peerless 600 series transmissions0001.pdf?dl=0

Or fright!

I was looking for something else this evening when I came across this which may be of interest to anyone trying to id a Peerless box. Interestingly there is an illustration of a 600 series transaxle and also one of a right angle drive box but not both fixed together. It makes me think that the set up posted on the forum may have been a modification by a machine manufacturer or user and not a Peerless option.
Peerless transmission model id0001.pdf

Throttle cable. You just need a bit of piano wire . Put a "dog leg" in the control end of it , split the control box and hook it into the lever and poke it down the outer with a couple of inches protruding , clamp the outer onto the BS throttle / governor  plate and eye up the appropriate length before making the final dog leg to hook into the throttle lever.
A lot easier than it sounds!
The original part number was 746-0503
P.S. BARRUS are showing available stock!! £8.53 + vat

Yes, a Peerless, as used in the Westwood Lawn bug. A 600 series , I believe,  but I've never seen one with that right angle drive box strapped on the side. Unfortunately I left all my Peerless literature  at my old business which has since closed .

A neighbour has just asked me to sort out a Howard Rotavator that has stood unused for twenty years and the fuel tank was in a similar state. Clean now but with more perforations in the bottom than a certain brand of tea bag!
Thanks for the birthday wishes from forum members - celebrated with a visit to the dentist for a crown, £££!!! OMG!

A neighbour has just asked me to sort out a Howard Rotavator that has stood unused for twenty years and the fuel tank was in a similar state. Clean now but with more perforations in the bottom than a certain brand of tea bag!
Thanks for the birthday wishes from forum members - celebrated with a visit to the dentist for a crown, £££!!! OMG!

A neighbour has just asked me to sort out a Howard Rotavator that has stood unused for twenty years and the fuel tank was in a similar state. Clean now but with more perforations in the bottom than a certain brand of tea bag!
Thanks for the birthday wishes from forum members - celebrated with a visit to the dentist for a crown, £££!!! OMG!

You have what was originally called the Hayter 12" Rotary Mower that subsequently acquired the Hawk name. As supplied it would not have had front wheels but just a large diameter anti scalp roller. The wheels were an optional extra. Your comment about it not having any height adjustment is not strictly correct - as you say, there is no lever or other on the move adjuster but if you look at the sides of the chassis there are alternative mounting positions for the wheels and / or the roller.
The original machine was then joined by the 19" Hawk Major , the Briggs 13 prefix to the model number signifying a 5HP engine instead of the 3.5HP engine on the 12" machine. Confusingly the Major parts list shows an optional 16" blade. Not sure why anyone would want to put a 16" blade in a 19" chassis.
Why was it called a graveyard or cemetery mower? That is what the original machine was designed for ; narrow to get between the headstones, the anti scalp roller to deal with humps and bumps and the nylon rubbing strips to prevent damage to both itself and the masonry.  I was told, but cannot confirm, that the original 12" machine was designed at the request of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission  for maintaining the orderly and close packed cemeteries both in the UK and in foreign parts.
Confusingly Hayter re-used the Hawk name on a light weight version of the 16" Harrier which was mainly sold through the sheds and by mail order leaving the Harrier model name mainly the preserve of the mower trade.
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0qgwb5nfcq725q/Hayter Hawk 12 and Major190001.pdf?dl=0

You have what was originally called the Hayter 12" Rotary Mower that subsequently acquired the Hawk name. As supplied it would not have had front wheels but just a large diameter anti scalp roller. The wheels were an optional extra. Your comment about it not having any height adjustment is not strictly correct - as you say, there is no lever or other on the move adjuster but if you look at the sides of the chassis there are alternative mounting positions for the wheels and / or the roller.
The original machine was then joined by the 19" Hawk Major , the Briggs 13 prefix to the model number signifying a 5HP engine instead of the 3.5HP engine on the 12" machine. Confusingly the Major parts list shows an optional 16" blade. Not sure why anyone would want to put a 16" blade in a 19" chassis.
Why was it called a graveyard or cemetery mower? That is what the original machine was designed for ; narrow to get between the headstones, the anti scalp roller to deal with humps and bumps and the nylon rubbing strips to prevent damage to both itself and the masonry.  I was told, but cannot confirm, that the original 12" machine was designed at the request of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission  for maintaining the orderly and close packed cemeteries both in the UK and in foreign parts.
Confusingly Hayter re-used the Hawk name on a light weight version of the 16" Harrier which was mainly sold through the sheds and by mail order leaving the Harrier model name mainly the preserve of the mower trade.
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0qgwb5nfcq725q/Hayter Hawk 12 and Major190001.pdf?dl=0

You have what was originally called the Hayter 12" Rotary Mower that subsequently acquired the Hawk name. As supplied it would not have had front wheels but just a large diameter anti scalp roller. The wheels were an optional extra. Your comment about it not having any height adjustment is not strictly correct - as you say, there is no lever or other on the move adjuster but if you look at the sides of the chassis there are alternative mounting positions for the wheels and / or the roller.
The original machine was then joined by the 19" Hawk Major , the Briggs 13 prefix to the model number signifying a 5HP engine instead of the 3.5HP engine on the 12" machine. Confusingly the Major parts list shows an optional 16" blade. Not sure why anyone would want to put a 16" blade in a 19" chassis.
Why was it called a graveyard or cemetery mower? That is what the original machine was designed for ; narrow to get between the headstones, the anti scalp roller to deal with humps and bumps and the nylon rubbing strips to prevent damage to both itself and the masonry.  I was told, but cannot confirm, that the original 12" machine was designed at the request of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission  for maintaining the orderly and close packed cemeteries both in the UK and in foreign parts.
Confusingly Hayter re-used the Hawk name on a light weight version of the 16" Harrier which was mainly sold through the sheds and by mail order leaving the Harrier model name mainly the preserve of the mower trade.
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0qgwb5nfcq725q/Hayter Hawk 12 and Major190001.pdf?dl=0

I wouldn't worry about it but you but if it bugs you, knock off one opposite. Lots of bunce flywheels about , we used to store a few from wrecked engines and then usually ended up weighing them in!

Not sure of the validity of this but we were warned not to pre fill with water hotter than the machine's max temp as apparently filling with just boiled water can damage the bonding between the "vibrating thingys" and the bottom of the tank.
Perhaps worth bearing in mind.

Thanks for the offer, I may well take you up on it if I cant find a suitable one to purchase.
Meanwhile, more progress this afternoon.
 
 

Thanks for the offer, I may well take you up on it if I cant find a suitable one to purchase.
Meanwhile, more progress this afternoon.
 
 

Thanks for the offer, I may well take you up on it if I cant find a suitable one to purchase.
Meanwhile, more progress this afternoon.
 
 

Not strictly Horticultural or Garden but am looking for information about the manufacturer etc of this push / pull child's rider which was new to me in 1947. Its done the rounds of other children and grandchildren etc and is now back with me for refurbishment!
The maker's name stamped in the back is BHC Boltoy but I can't find any reference to them on the internet and unfortunately the possible local source, the Pedal Car Museum, just across the boarder in East Sussex, has closed.
  

The new tyres arrived from the Pram Museum in Holland this morning and having been warmed up on top of the Aga were fitted with a bit of a struggle as they are a really good tight fit and no levers used so as not to scratch the newly powder coated wheels. 
The chassis has been blasted and powder coated so reassembly can begin as soon as the bench is clear.
Still on the look out for a miniature tractor seat in either metal or plastic but it looks as though I will have to make a wood former and build one up from fibre glass matt with some wire mesh reinforcement - all alternative suggestions welcome.