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factory

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Posts posted by factory
 
 

  1. It looks like an ex US military replacement engine, they often appear for sale on ebay. They rarely seem to come with an air filter or muffler though. Is it marked type 133 on the edge of the engine mount?

    The only use I've seen is the Champ generator, see this thread in the O&R section of the forum;

    I do wonder if they had other military applications though as the mount is incorrect for the Champ generator.

     

    David


  2. On 6/13/2016 at 0:06 PM, Jeroenw114 said:
    5) The yellow parts need a respray. Someone did half once and now it's duo colored. So I took the starter rope etc. apart and shocked of the spring jumping out. That will need to be re winded. But how many turns??

     

    The model 13B spring should go back something like this;

    SAM_4903e.jpg

     

    I have the procedure for reassembling the starter for the later model 20A engine, it may be a little confusing though as the 20A could be altered to change the rotation of the engine. And assembling it the wrong way results in a broken spring.

     

    I've only seen a decal/sticker on the fuel tank for the later Drillgine with the model 13B engine, none of my saved pictures show any decals on the square recoil spring housing.

     

    David


  3. Apparently there are five different versions that were offered by Regina Electric Products Ltd. of North Acton Road, Harlesden, London, NW10.

    I don't know if there any other versions of the KC Wiggins one, I haven't seen another since I bought mine.

    The UK versions are based on the US made Varo Amp Champ, which can be found in this thread:

     

    The standard models made by Regina are;

    H110, 230V AC/DC & 12V DC outputs,

    H111, 230V AC/DC & 24V DC outputs,

    H112, 115V AC/DC & 12V DC outputs,

    H113, 115V AC/DC & 24V DC outputs,

    The mains voltage outputs are rated at 350W for AC & 300W for DC, the low voltage DC output is rated at 150W.

     

    The model H114 is a combined 12V/24V DC unit for battery charging and is rated at 250W.

     

    I have a photocopy of the Regina instructions, it doesn't give any clues to how to wire up the model H114, but given that the middle terminals are the output, it must have had a removable link plug to select either 12V or 24V. Did yours come with any connectors or cables?

     

    David

     

     

     


  4. Welcome to the new forum.

     

    I have added two engine parts diagrams scans that should cover most O&R types (I have earlier one to scan yet) and the starter instructions (which were on the old forum).

    These are in the thread linked here:

    The new Regina Champ generator looks familiar, was it the 12V/24V version that was sold a few years ago with the original cables? If it was I don't suppose you could add a good picture of the cables to the Regina Champ thread, as they are always missing.

    The Turbair doesn't look too bad, the paintwork is in better condition than mine, I have parted restored mine but haven't decided what to do with the chrome on the fan guard, which is very badly rusted.

    Also don't attempt to clean the sticker on the fuel tank as it will probably end up blank, like some similar labels at work did (though that didn't matter as they were going to be replaced anyway).

     

    David


  5. Here is another bit of information on the needle valve setting for needles with an X on the valve head, this valve has a .015" orifice along the tapered seat of the valve. According to instructions the setting is to have the valve gently bottomed.

    I'm sure I have some carbs with an X on valve head and but haven't tried this procedure yet.

     

    David

     

    Carb Valve Type X.JPG


  6. Here is a ebay picture I found of the O&R winterising procedure, that came with an engine supplied through Rupert Ledger & Co. Ltd. (the UK distributor for O&R engines). It also mentions using a teaspoonful of oil in the cylinder and stopping the piston halfway to prevent damp air entering via the exhaust.

     

    David

    Winterising Procedure e.jpg


  7. 23 hours ago, Wallfish said:

    The guy replied back about having a "Family Disagreement" concerning the saw and may re-list it.

     

    It has been re-listed, it will be interesting to see how much it goes for.

     

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Ohlsson-Rice-O-R-1HP-Engine-TILE-CUTTER-NEW-MINI-BIKE-Go-Kart-/121980468259

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ohlsson-Rice-O-R-1HP-Engine-TILE-CUTTER-NEW-MINI-BIKE-Go-Kart-/121980468259

     

    David


  8. Thanks for posting this one, never saw it on ebay, I'm convinced some non UK items don't show over here, even if I look on the ebay US site.

     

    They must have been offered a lot to end early with bids from 7 different people, ebay now discourage ending items early over here and may even charge fees if it had bids.

     

    David


  9. Wow thank You , I put it together tonight and just came in from garage to see what the points get set at and seen you diagram and it appears I got everything together wright. Just need to set points which I currently have set at 14 but have not seen a setting for them yet.I did check for spark and it is getting a nice blue spark.To late to run it because my garage is about 20 feet from a  neighbors bedroom that is just across the alley. Ill take you up on the email of the parts list at your convenience. Does it say what the points get set at and the setting for the mag to flywheel clearance.

     

    From the O&R 20A manual;

    Points gap is 0.015" to 0.018"

    Coil to flywheel gap is 0.010"

    Spark plug gap is 0.025"

     

    The ESA 1973 parts manual gives the spark plug gap as 0.030"

     

    David


  10. Here is a advert from 1973 found online that has two O&R powered Lancaster chainsaws, the 20SLA Automatic that Lee has and the 15SLA Mini Automatic that I have.

    post-325-0-96889300-1454854585_thumb.jpg

     

    Also attached are some pictures of my smaller Lancaster 15SLA Mini Automatic with the 13B engine. The air filter is different to the standard ones fitted to O&R's, also the instructions aren't quite right as the chain oiler is automatic.

    post-325-0-23238700-1454854918_thumb.jpg

    post-325-0-24990200-1454854919_thumb.jpg

    post-325-0-27340400-1454854920_thumb.jpg

    post-325-0-63643900-1454854921_thumb.jpg

    post-325-0-69387800-1454854922_thumb.jpg

     

    David


  11. VERY NICE!!!!!! And one of the coolest looking O&R tools out there.

    They are very rare and difficult to find over here too. I got lucky and bought one from Webhead and have only seen one other for sale so far. Appears those two should clean up real nice.

     

    They do seem quite rare, I had also only seem one other sell in the US and another that sold in South Africa in 2013 here;

    http://www.bidorbuy.co.za/item/89694683/1962_PETROL_POWERED_DRILLING_MACHINE_Chug_A_Drill.html

     

    I did a google search for "Chug-A-Drill" this evening, there were only 8 results, including one that didn't sell for $1000!!!

    Also found was a new looking 1HP Almico branded one (still has Petro cast into the handle), someone definitely got a bargain; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gasoline-powered-Drill-/221729491998 its so nice I've added some pictures of it before they disappear.

    post-325-0-43205000-1447877810_thumb.jpgpost-325-0-13179800-1447877814_thumb.jpg.

    Lastly an article from 1962 in Desert Magazine, on page 6 from here http://dezertmagazine.com/mine/1962DM07/files/196207-desertmagazine-1962-july.pdf

    post-325-0-91166300-1447878390.jpg

     

    A couple of nice finds there :thumbs:

     

    It's a shame about the fuel tank, I'd be inclined to cut it in half, beat the two halfs back into shape and weld it back together.. It's worth a go and you have nowt to loose :)

    Sounds like a good idea, it will probably be tin though, it may be possible to solder on a brass band to overlap the join.

     

    David

 
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