factory

Post pictures of what is fitted to the cylinder as I may have the correct NOS gaskets.
 
David

HEY, that looks familiar. Certainly an interesting tool.
Hope you don't need help on assembly as it's been a long time since taking it apart to ship.

Starting the tear down of the Landscaper 600. Went ok for the most part but the main spindle won’t come free from the crankshaft. It has a single threaded screw that attaches it to the  end of the crankshaft like most engines. It is really seized up on there. I tried all the usual tapping tricks but still no luck. I also noticed that the entire spindle and crankshaft are super wobbly and loose. I’m hoping it’s not broken inside the engine. The bearings are most definitely shot, hopefully the shaft is not cracked. Not sure what to try next to get this spindle off.
 
Definitely going to take some serious cleaning...
 

Ok, here’s the little project I’ve been working on for the last couple weeks.  I’ve been wanting to make a small lawn mower/trimmer with an O&R and I had a nice 133 military engine that needed to find a home.  Thanks to Terry@Just O&R, he was able to hook me up with the perfect vintage mower - it was exactly what I was hoping for. This one is a 14” Sensation, perfect size and design style for the O&R.  
 
It’s not 100% done yet but I couldn’t put off getting some photos posted. I’m still working on the actual trimmer concept and plan to go with more of a weed eater head set up instead of a mower blade.  I plan to use the starter cup off a vintage Pioneer chainsaw and drill three holes so I can pass through some pre-cut Trimmer lines with end-stops. I’ll figure out a good way to secure the cup to the spindle shaft. I also added a stop button to the back plate similar to a few other O&R tools I have.  I’m also finalizing a short throttle cable, doesn’t really need one but thought it might be nice. After a lot of hunting I ended up finding a cast aluminum boat chair pedestal that made the perfect adapter plate to mount the engine to the mower. I also had to swap out the normal Type 133 mount with one that has a couple more inches in height. This was needed to get the right clearance for the gas tank.  Just a note, the early style Drillgine gas tanks don’t mount to the newer style engines and I had to make a couple slight mods to the casting on the case to get all the clearances to fit right.
 
Here is the before and after...
 

Coolest thing that I've seen done with these engines to this point...the enthusiasm with O&R's is at it's peak and doesn't look like it will stop climbing for a while.

Here you go Paul, these original decals are 1½ inches tall, the scan could do with cleaning up if you're going to have some made, I can email you the original high-res scan if that helps.

 

 

 
David

Got the fan all cleaned up and did the carb but then just wanted to see, hear and feel it run. Still need to do a yellow tank and the fuel line

 

 

IMG_0665(1).MOV  

Good advise, I don't use the gasket punch kit very often and didn't at work much either (I used to repair train electronics, occasionally a new case seal or some custom mica insulators needed making).
 
I've now made some more of the carb gaskets, without cutting them out before punching the holes. I was previously using a piece of chipboard that came in the packaging of a well known flatpack bookcase. I've now found another piece as the other one was rather worn out from punching cylinder & induction gaskets.

 

 
Here are some from the batch I have made, with a third sheet of thinner gasket paper to get the correct thickness to match the original pair of red gaskets used between the induction housing & carb. I haven't checked yet but the thinner one maybe similar to the single gasket used on the early O&R engines.

 
David

Good advise, I don't use the gasket punch kit very often and didn't at work much either (I used to repair train electronics, occasionally a new case seal or some custom mica insulators needed making).
 
I've now made some more of the carb gaskets, without cutting them out before punching the holes. I was previously using a piece of chipboard that came in the packaging of a well known flatpack bookcase. I've now found another piece as the other one was rather worn out from punching cylinder & induction gaskets.

 

 
Here are some from the batch I have made, with a third sheet of thinner gasket paper to get the correct thickness to match the original pair of red gaskets used between the induction housing & carb. I haven't checked yet but the thinner one maybe similar to the single gasket used on the early O&R engines.

 
David

That looks in nice condition & you got the tank with it too, the .049 is known as the "Midjet" or "Mite". I have the water cooled "Mariner" version, it came with some original decals, I'll scan them & add them to the forum.
The .049 was the last model engine that O&R introduced before they stopped making them and brought out the Compact Industrial engine.
 
David

All the direct drive engines (3/4HP to 1HP) are CCW rotation, to change to CW rotation would require a different crankshaft (for timing), flywheel with dogs reversed and the starter rope & spring reversed (possible with 13B starter), apart from the starter these parts were never made. The larger Series 20A engine was available in both rotations.
 
David

Good advise, I don't use the gasket punch kit very often and didn't at work much either (I used to repair train electronics, occasionally a new case seal or some custom mica insulators needed making).
 
I've now made some more of the carb gaskets, without cutting them out before punching the holes. I was previously using a piece of chipboard that came in the packaging of a well known flatpack bookcase. I've now found another piece as the other one was rather worn out from punching cylinder & induction gaskets.

 

 
Here are some from the batch I have made, with a third sheet of thinner gasket paper to get the correct thickness to match the original pair of red gaskets used between the induction housing & carb. I haven't checked yet but the thinner one maybe similar to the single gasket used on the early O&R engines.

 
David

It's my opinion it would be fine with the new gasket material. Especially for the little one between the carb body and diaphragm as the thickness shouldn't effect anything as long as it's not too thin. The only issue with the others could be the governor touching the exhaust manifold but using 3 instead of 2 gaskets should cure that. Thicker would be better than thinner for that spot. 
I've used thick cork gasket material in the past for the carb to case gasket and the engine ran fine

Probably teaching you to suck eggs, but I've found when making gaskets with not much 'meat' between a hole and the edge it's best to use a piece of gasket paper a fair bit bigger than the gasket needs to be and punch the holes out before cutting round the edge of the gasket. I've also found that placing the gasket on a piece of chipboard (I use an offcut from a kitchen cabinet) gives a much cleaner cut with the punch than using a piece of soft wood.

Sorry David, I missed this but here they are.
I don't remember ever seeing this style recoil decal before. Nothing seems any different to make it an "Industrial" engine but it hasn't been disassembled either. And not sure I'm even going to since it has great compression now, the flywheel and all the grooves in the plate are clean. It has definitely been run before but with no build up of debris on the flywheel from sucking in air, it indicates a low hour run time. Think it just needs some overall cleaning and the carb done. The plan is to just clean it up a bit and let it fly it's character as it was used by the LAFD. I was going to paint the grills as the chrome on them isn't the best but leaving it in it's working clothes is the best option for this one IMO.

 

Has anyone had the red carb gaskets laser cut?
 
I've had a request for these, so I've had a go at making some using my gasket punch kit & a craft knife.
These are my first attempt with some of the cellulose fibre gasket material (slightly thinner than the original), I'm also a bit limited by the sizes of the punches for some of the holes.

 
I don't have any of the red gasket material, but I suspect it would split too easily when punching the holes due to the thin sections.
 
David

Has anyone had the red carb gaskets laser cut?
 
I've had a request for these, so I've had a go at making some using my gasket punch kit & a craft knife.
These are my first attempt with some of the cellulose fibre gasket material (slightly thinner than the original), I'm also a bit limited by the sizes of the punches for some of the holes.

 
I don't have any of the red gasket material, but I suspect it would split too easily when punching the holes due to the thin sections.
 
David

Another mini-bike for everyone to add to their want/search lists. I found the Holder Micro Cycle on another forum a while back, it uses the O&R Series 20A engine and the gas tank is part of the bike frame.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/holder-micro-cycle-parts-or-info.80630/
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/holder-micro-cycle.50824/
 
The 4 page magazine article from "Mini Bike Guide" November 1971 gives the incorrect spelling of Olsen & Rice instead of Ohlsson & Rice;
https://oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?media/holder-micro-cycle-november-1971-test-report.112533/
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/holder-micro-cycle.82912/
 
David

Interesting I hadn't spotted the original decal for the newer generator was a Model 67, that does explain why the base is missing, it would have had the large tank as shown in the manual*, the older ones with the smaller tank are most commonly a Model 300 (a few are Model 350).
Also noticed the starter is labelled AEP.
 
David
 
*I really need to photo the generator that manual came with (Model 5001-1).

Another mini-bike for everyone to add to their want/search lists. I found the Holder Micro Cycle on another forum a while back, it uses the O&R Series 20A engine and the gas tank is part of the bike frame.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/holder-micro-cycle-parts-or-info.80630/
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/holder-micro-cycle.50824/
 
The 4 page magazine article from "Mini Bike Guide" November 1971 gives the incorrect spelling of Olsen & Rice instead of Ohlsson & Rice;
https://oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?media/holder-micro-cycle-november-1971-test-report.112533/
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/holder-micro-cycle.82912/
 
David

OK, went for the crazy daredevil ride of a lifetime. Check out the risky off roading over the grass!
Youtube was a pita so shortened it to copy directly. Hopefully you guys can view the video but let me know if you can't.
Just threw some stuff on it so I could ride it and thought it would be funny. Still have lots to do but doubtful I'll ride it after it's done and painted.
Now it's Terry's turn for that skateboard
 

IMG_0659.MOV  
 
Had some traction issue with the friction wheel. I'll figure out how to crank that down so it bites into the tire better. You can see it peeling the tire in the pic with all that black on the frame.
 

I thought I showed you how to fix those old bent up tanks. You need to pay attention .
You need to save that you can or are you a parts changer

I've had this unknown O&R powered pole trimmer for a few years (thanks to Wallfish for his help), I'm not 100% sure of the intended use, if anyone has seen one or know what it is please let us know, the pictures below are from the ePay listing.

 

 
Here are some pictures of the engine & cutter assembly as it arrived and has been for a few years since.


 

 

 
David

Something more like this then, add one of those Turbair bottles & it can do the crop spraying too.

 
David

Something more like this then, add one of those Turbair bottles & it can do the crop spraying too.

 
David