OldBuzzard

It's definitely NOT a G8, as the G8 was a small (stamped) frame tractor.
 
It could be a G9, G10, or G11.
 
G9  = 8HP B&S 190417-065301
 
G10 = 10HP B&S 251417-015901 (1976 and 1977.  The 1973-1975 G10 had the TEC HH100-115181D)
 
G11 = 11 HP B&S 252417-013201

 
I think you are closer to being right than  am.
 
Fender pan isn't right for the G9, G10, G11.
 
But with the cobbled up seat, anything is possible.
 
Getting the proper engine spec would be the key.

It's definitely NOT a G8, as the G8 was a small (stamped) frame tractor.
 
It could be a G9, G10, or G11.
 
G9  = 8HP B&S 190417-065301
 
G10 = 10HP B&S 251417-015901 (1976 and 1977.  The 1973-1975 G10 had the TEC HH100-115181D)
 
G11 = 11 HP B&S 252417-013201

 
I think you are closer to being right than  am.
 
Fender pan isn't right for the G9, G10, G11.
 
But with the cobbled up seat, anything is possible.
 
Getting the proper engine spec would be the key.

It's definitely NOT a G8, as the G8 was a small (stamped) frame tractor.
 
It could be a G9, G10, or G11.
 
G9  = 8HP B&S 190417-065301
 
G10 = 10HP B&S 251417-015901 (1976 and 1977.  The 1973-1975 G10 had the TEC HH100-115181D)
 
G11 = 11 HP B&S 252417-013201

 
I think you are closer to being right than  am.
 
Fender pan isn't right for the G9, G10, G11.
 
But with the cobbled up seat, anything is possible.
 
Getting the proper engine spec would be the key.

Heres some of the pic's i have.
My bolens 853. needs a lot of help.

bolens QT16. 

home made 3 point linkage linked into the lift ram. 
works really well. i have a tipping linkbox, land leveller and a couple of spiky grubber type thingy's.

the little home built yoke.






bolens TH20
planing a 3 point linkage similar to the QT16's

bolens G14

bolens 2133 mulcher

thats it FOR NOW. 

I started on my first competition
I'll update when i have time in between plowing
Here's the first pic of the day

Nice looking Estate Keeper.    :thumbs:  
 
I'm guessing that it's the 7HP version, built in 1964-66.
 
Looks to be pretty much original except for the seat.
 
Here's a pic of my EK7 so you can see how the seat should be mounted.
 
 

Nice looking Estate Keeper.    :thumbs:  
 
I'm guessing that it's the 7HP version, built in 1964-66.
 
Looks to be pretty much original except for the seat.
 
Here's a pic of my EK7 so you can see how the seat should be mounted.
 
 

Some of you know I've been looking to move for over a year, I finally made it last Friday.
So now we are out in the countryside just a few miles from Malham. Scenery fantastic, modern conveniences lacking... We are on bottled water, no mobile, Internet or phone line. And get hot water from a tap if I leave the heating on full!
Huge plus side, no neighbours, lots of countryside, land and areas to play
We've been busy pla...tidying for the last few days. Here's a few pics, I know some of you like them
there's videos too, but currently on free wifi and dont have time.

There are rotorvators and then there are rotorvators :D
 
Some rotorvators like the Bolens 'square back' models are very heavy duty and capable of working virgin ground.
 
Others like their 'round back' model are light duty and only designed for previously worked ground.
 
If yours is a 'light duty' one, maybe you should consider using a plough to break the ground first, and then follow up with the rotorvator after the plough has done the 'heavy work'.

He is going to buy new tires for it next, paid 2100 for it, great machine.

Nice looking tractors.
 
Looks to me like you need a Haban Sickle-Mo in the worst way.
 
One of them would have handled that fence line in short order.

You definitely want R1 tread AG tyres.
 
I would fill the tyres as well.  Here in The Colonies we have a product called Rim Guard.  It's a beet juice derivative and weighs 11lbs/gal. as opposed to the water based fluids that are roughly 8 lbs/gal.
 
You might check with the various agricultural dealers and see if there is something similar in the UK.
 
If you use a water based fluid I'd recommend the winter type window washer fluid, and fill them to the valve stem with the stem at the 12:00 position.
 
You want some airspace in the tyre to give a bit of a flex and cushion.  If you fill them 100% the tractor will ride like it has steel wheels.
 
There is another option as well, and that's a Calcium Chloride solution.  It will had a lot of weight, but I would avoid it like the plague.  It's very corrosive and will eat up the wheels from the inside.

Been after this sign for a few years now, the other day the boss said I could have it previously wanting £1000 for it!
Rutherfords were a large agricultural engineers here in the borders manufacturing grain handling equipment, sheds ect, established around 1850 it went into liquidation in 1995. It has several branches, one survived in earlston however it shut down about a year ago.
Anyway this sign has survived the building going through two sales and nobody removed it, it was obvious there was others around it but these were long gone.
Will look good once the sparrow crap Is cleaned off, or do I leave it?

Hello Chris, no it was the one with the Bolens H16 with a 42" deck that was 10 miles up the road from me. It was this one.

The manual I posted pretty much explains it.
 
You raise the 3-PT to the top and then pull the knob/shaft.  That moves a piece that will go between the frame and the arm on the 3-PT which keeps it in the raised position.
 
That's useful for transport as it takes the stress off the hydraulics.
 
It really has nothing to do with the operation of any front mounted attachments other than it allows you to use them without having to dismount any of the rear 3-PT attachments.
 
If you disconnect the lift rod from the tractor's rockshaft to the 3-PT rockshaft, you can then use front mounted attachments without raising and lowering the 3-PT.
 
Remember, the front and rear implements both raise and lower using the same points on tractor's rockshaft.
 
I think once you guys get 'hands on it' you will see what I'm talking about.
 
Now, just to add some more confusion, there were also optional 'lock up' kits for the tiller and front blade.
 
Those allowed you to leave the tiller or front front blade mounted while you were using other attachments.
 
Here's a link to a lockup kit for the front blade that was sold on eBay some time back.  It's a long story, but I actually ended up with it as the 'winning bidder' was trying to pull some shenanigans.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Bolens-Model-18113-P-N-1736718-Blade-Lock-Up-Kit-Fits-ALL-Largeframes-/331480209892?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=uKx7K%252FIPo%252BFKzbCtAqstSTd4eAg%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&rmvSB=true

The manual I posted pretty much explains it.
 
You raise the 3-PT to the top and then pull the knob/shaft.  That moves a piece that will go between the frame and the arm on the 3-PT which keeps it in the raised position.
 
That's useful for transport as it takes the stress off the hydraulics.
 
It really has nothing to do with the operation of any front mounted attachments other than it allows you to use them without having to dismount any of the rear 3-PT attachments.
 
If you disconnect the lift rod from the tractor's rockshaft to the 3-PT rockshaft, you can then use front mounted attachments without raising and lowering the 3-PT.
 
Remember, the front and rear implements both raise and lower using the same points on tractor's rockshaft.
 
I think once you guys get 'hands on it' you will see what I'm talking about.
 
Now, just to add some more confusion, there were also optional 'lock up' kits for the tiller and front blade.
 
Those allowed you to leave the tiller or front front blade mounted while you were using other attachments.
 
Here's a link to a lockup kit for the front blade that was sold on eBay some time back.  It's a long story, but I actually ended up with it as the 'winning bidder' was trying to pull some shenanigans.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Bolens-Model-18113-P-N-1736718-Blade-Lock-Up-Kit-Fits-ALL-Largeframes-/331480209892?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=uKx7K%252FIPo%252BFKzbCtAqstSTd4eAg%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&rmvSB=true

It has nothing to do with the hydraulic system.
 
It's a mechanical lock up for the 3-pt.
 
It is a standard part for the 18086 3-pt hitch for the HT series tractors.
 
It's generally missing on used 3-pt hitches because the PO didn't know, or didn't bother to remove it from the tractor.
 
Here's the 18086 instruction manual that shows it and describes it's use.
 
 
 
 
18086_3pt_Instructions.pdf

It has nothing to do with the hydraulic system.
 
It's a mechanical lock up for the 3-pt.
 
It is a standard part for the 18086 3-pt hitch for the HT series tractors.
 
It's generally missing on used 3-pt hitches because the PO didn't know, or didn't bother to remove it from the tractor.
 
Here's the 18086 instruction manual that shows it and describes it's use.
 
 
 
 
18086_3pt_Instructions.pdf

I found a Bolens HT23 on craigslist, my best friend and fellow collector Garoyl Humphrey from Vinita, Oklahoma has been on the hunt for one for some time. Initially he wanted a first year 1979 model, but after finding out about the selector knob on later models that allows the switching of the front and rear hydraulic lifts he realized that was too advantageous to pass up. The tractor was 1,033 miles due west of his location, in Flagstaff Arizona. He drove out there in one day slept in the truck, picked up the tractor, and returned that same day, well 3 am. He returned with a low hour 1985 Bolens HT23. Being in the desert the green faded in places, but the white stayed true as did the decals. The tractor ran strong and came with a front blade that both lifted and angled hydraulically, an authentic late model Brinly BB-1004 rear reversible blade, 3 point hitch, wheel weights and the small selector knob i mentioned on the rear fender, With petrol and cost of tractor he got out of the desert for less than 2500.00 US. BTW. The original owner ordered this from the factory without power steering. The reason why is that this originally had a snowblower and was used in the high Rocky Mountains not far away. You can tell the tractor had a snow blower by the front brackets that held the helper springs on the front of the frame. Back to the P/S the reason the owner did not want it was that the P/S comes directly off the pump, before any other systems, lifts or drive. With P/S power would b reduced from the drive unit and would also slow the front blower lift. I've driven these large frames sans power steering it doesn't take much more than two fingers IF the steering column and steering parts are in good order.

After a good turnout at Newby Hall we have been rewarded with a good article on the UK wheel horse round up in this months T&M. A good set of pictures and we have our names in print

The 1253 is easy :D
 
It was only produced for one year, 1970.

Great find   :thumbs:  
 
Those things are pretty rare here in the States.  I can't imagine how rare they are over there.
 
You definitely will want to put it on something with hydraulic lift as those rascals are HEAVY!
 
I have one that I haven't fitted to a tractor yet as it needs a bit of work and all new blades.
 
I do have it's 'big brother' on my HT20D and you can feel the front end squat when you lift it up.
 
The 20D doesn't have power steering (yet) and it definitely takes some effort to steer as well.  I'm thinking that a bit more PSI in the front tires would help that somewhat.

Nice looking tractor even if it's the wrong color.  At least it wasn't rusting away :D
 
I've seen the Bolens tractors painted in just about every color of the rainbow.  Seems like the styling lends itself to that.
 
As for your 1254-06 with a Tec engine in it, I'm thinking that it's had a transplant.
 
According to my info, the all of the 1254 production runs had the Wisconsin TRA-12D engine but there was a different Spec. number for the later ones.
 
The -01 through the -04 had a Spec. number of 335600, whilst the -05 and -06 had a Spec. number of 357448.
 
I have no clue as what the difference(s) between the two Spec. numbers may have been.
 
I'll also note that the same thing applied to the 1256.  The -01 through -04 used the earlier engine whilst the -06 and -07 used the latter.
 
What's even more interesting is that I can find no reference to a -05  production run of the 1256 in ANY of the lists that I have.

The 1253 is easy :D
 
It was only produced for one year, 1970.

Nice looking tractor even if it's the wrong color.  At least it wasn't rusting away :D
 
I've seen the Bolens tractors painted in just about every color of the rainbow.  Seems like the styling lends itself to that.
 
As for your 1254-06 with a Tec engine in it, I'm thinking that it's had a transplant.
 
According to my info, the all of the 1254 production runs had the Wisconsin TRA-12D engine but there was a different Spec. number for the later ones.
 
The -01 through the -04 had a Spec. number of 335600, whilst the -05 and -06 had a Spec. number of 357448.
 
I have no clue as what the difference(s) between the two Spec. numbers may have been.
 
I'll also note that the same thing applied to the 1256.  The -01 through -04 used the earlier engine whilst the -06 and -07 used the latter.
 
What's even more interesting is that I can find no reference to a -05  production run of the 1256 in ANY of the lists that I have.