HeadExam

Very nice old Machine!

It was factory, but I think it was Auto Culto made to fit on Cubs, but not a hitch that IH or Cub Cadet specifically made. The hitch was sold in order for you to use (and buy) Auto Culto implements that would attach to the Cub and Universally to possibly many other tractors as well. They probably had the same deal that Allied and Brinly had in the states and therefore, yes factory, but not IH, that however is splitting hairs at this point. It does seem that the mounting point for the springs needs to be moved back and attached to the seat mount rather than attached to a rod across the seat brace. Notice the factory IH wheel weights in the picture, you cant see all of them, but they were the same for many years, I still believe yours may be older Bolens weights, but I could be wrong. What I do not understand is how the Universal Auto Culto says it is a three point, when there are only two points to lift, by the holes in the lift straps. I just don't see where the center lift would hook too the implement in order to actually lift an implement, because with out the center piece it isn't a 3 point implement lift, nor could 3 point implements attach to it and 2 point attachments would be difficult to lift without a 3rd point of lift. It is what revolutionized farming, the Ford three point system. I'm no expert on Cub or Auto Culto, but it would be very interesting to see how the lift worked (I know the thing worked, lol) and what type of implements it used. Does the brochure you have show any other details/pictures? The brinly lift would have hooked into the bracket with the three holes at the lower bottom of the tractor, a U shaped bracket with a sleeve hitch mount, the hole on the top lift would have had two straps attached to the bottom lift and used to raise the implement. The bolts would tighten the implement to the the back of the hitch. the Cub original rear bottom lift was different and used a single spring to the back of the seat brace for an assist, as in the photo, you can barely see the spring at the top.

Who are you speaking too? EDIT: got it now

Yes, you want 4.80-8 or 4.00-8 no real difference, just some manufactures measure from the sidewalls and some measure the top of tread. They also make a thinner tire in a 3.50-8 tri-rib and they are fine for lighter machines, but not yours. I have way over 4,000 in tyres, I've done a little research. Like the difference between a a Carlisle multi-trac CS and the Kenda K500 super turf or a Kenda K505, pick the kenda k500 super turf

You guys think alike, lol. Maybe someone saw the other tractor or it was a shared idea. I posted another picture on my previous post

Yeah but the springs for spring assist on the Cubs fit horizontally inside the frame channel an "helped" the lift rod

You don't drink Tea? Time to call MI6 and find out who this guy really is

Only four of the seven photos showed up for me. Model 70s are hard to find, is it a recoil or electric start? The springs on the rear hitch are not factory, but the rest of the hitch may very well be. I thought the wheel weights may be early Bolens weights, but it is possible that E. Rowe which built the weights for Bolens and many other tractors, also supplied weights to Cub dealers overseas, that may have looked like Bolens weights, but were intended for Cubs, very hard to say. I do have photos of model 70 and 100 weights that were sold here in the US. and even that is speculation unless one knows the original purchaser.

You mean like these? At 29 p. WITH tubes, that's not bad. http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=68497939.110.11435&Breite=4.80&Quer=&Felge=8&Speed=&kategorie=&Marke=&ranzahl=2&S_Z=&tyre_for=&x_tyre_for=&m_s=4&weiter=10&rsmFahrzeugart=AS&search_tool=standard&details=Ordern&typ=R-185269

53 pounds for Kenda BKTs, I like the 8.50 wide for AG tyres and the 10.50 wide for turfs tyres, this outfit seems to have good prices on tyres. http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=68497939.110.11435&Breite=23x8.50&Quer=&Felge=12&Speed=&kategorie=&Marke=Kenda&ranzahl=2&tyre_for=&x_tyre_for=&Herst=Kenda&m_s=4&weiter=10&rsmFahrzeugart=AS&search_tool=standard&details=Ordern&typ=R-188542

I would challenge him to a pull, not a race, chain each other back to back and see who wins the tug-o-war

Red will look good on you. I'm glad you saved it, that's why these are so rare, no one bothers with them. I think they are really cool. I've seen some old Fords and Cub RERs that were really cool as well.

I had 250AS, no worries about freezing water

Well you have quite the mystery going on. I commend you on your thoroughness in eliminating possible issues or problems. Now I hope you find the problem and tell us, because other than gremlins, I'm not sure what the problem could be. I had a big tractor that was air cooled, a Belarus, that had a weak injector pump and it started to blow smoke, but I replaced the injector pump because it wasn't moving fuel properly and that fixed the problem. Delayed injection could cause the white smoke and that might, like you said, point toward worn camshaft lobes

https://news.yahoo.com/video/record-rain-deadly-floods-plains-144416077.html More rain forecast for the next two weeks

Thanks everyone, I would set out a pump, but there really is no where to pump it to that wont just raise the water level in another area unless I had a lot more hose. The pump hose is 2 inches in diameter, where as a water hose is 3/4 of an inch, the water hose, which I have plenty of, is not big enough to carry the volume of water required to remove incoming water. I only have 20 feet of the 2 inch line and that only fills the pond we once called the "yard" The latest forecast is for another 6 inches today with more all next week. A firefighter lost his life last night trying to rescue a man from swift water that took his truck from the road. Many deaths are going to be attributed to this Memorial Day flood, hopefully not as many as in 1987 when 27 people died just in my area. The water has inundated the garden, all plants are under water or gone, the pond is about to crest over the dam and the road leading to town has been impassable for over a day due to swift water crossing the road. I'm building a berm that will partially shield the house and redirect the water down to a lower elevation. Many areas in the Texas, Oklahoma, and Kansas will be extensively flooded and there will be more loss of life. I just wish we could get this water to California which has seen a 150 foot drop in their largest reservoir, Lake Mead. I never thought about purchasing a rain jacket until yesterday, now I believe they are sold out, if I could get there.

Well if you don't have air in your fuel lines or a clogged fuel tank breather hole then i would say that the problem is going to be internal. You may be looking at worn or jammed piston rings, worn or scored cylinders, or worn valve guides. I'm afraid if you have eliminated everything else this is where the problem points.

I noticed watching several videos from the IHF event that the same model tractors that we have here in the states had more extensive and larger fenders, along with buddy seats, fender seats, and back seats between the fenders. It seems that the fenders drop much lower and fuller around the tyres compared to American model tractors as well.

My Bible is using something akin to metric in the form of hectares, dinars, rubles, heck I don't know. I just need the dimensions of an Ark, say about 10 percent the size of Noah's. We have already received 17 inches of rain this month and just received over 3 inches in the last 2-3 hours, with over 6 inches forecast before midnight and maybe that much tomorrow and Monday as well. My wife and I have formed a bucket brigade and have moved about 1500 gals in 5 gallon buckets since 7 pm. It is coming in under our sun porch door and threshold, at an alarming rate, it rose from outside the sun room door to the inside sliding door (about 15 feet and 6 inches up) in less than 20 minutes, After about 90 minutes of baling water by filling 5 gallon buckets and going through the house to the front side of the property we were able to reduce the water level substantially. I have used heavy plastic and bricks/pavers on the outside door, but it is still entering in weep holes in the brick that is supposed to allow water out, but because the water in the backyard is over 6 inches deep the weep holes are now a point of entry. I have now plugged those holes and am having the wife bail the rest of the water out of the sun-room while I take time to think of other options. There is a limit to how much water we can put out the front door, because A) it just runs around the house in a few minutes and the water is starting to get near the front door as well. So the idea of a Ark came to mind, not one that floats, but more of a coffer dam around the house, built of wood, lined with plastic. I should go see how the wife is doing before I go to bed, it looks like I will need to be well rested for the morning.

White smoke is caused by raw, unburnt fuel passing into the exhaust stream or water burning in the combustion. Common causes include 1) Blown head gasket allowing water to enter the combustion area. This will usually smell slightly sweet. 2) Defective fuel injectors. 3) Low cylinder compression, low cylinder compression may be caused by leaking valves, sticking piston rings, ring wear, cylinder wear, or cylinder glaze. 4) When white smoke occurs at cold start and then disappears as the engine warms up, the most common causes are fouling deposits around piston rings and/or cylinder glazing. 5) Water entering combustion spaces will also create white smoke. 6) Faulty head gaskets and cracked cylinder heads or blocks are a common cause of water entry. Small diesel engine basics.

I'll get a formula for you. I used a industrial enamel. I'm not sure whether they used white to make the color or a pastel tint base, but I will let you know. Industrial paints use different tint types than house paint or even other architectural oil base alkyds. One a side note these industrial enamels are high in solids and take a good amount of reducer, I'm fairly sure most of the paints over there are low V.O.C.s which reduce at a different rate.

There really weren't paint codes for Bolens, mostly names, but I had the paint custom matched. I can give you the formula after I pick it up. This color is one of there toughest to find or match. its not the almond or white they had used in the past, made from around 1970-1972 its a greenish/grayish/white, it was used on most all the tractors of that era even the small frames and large frames. I use the Rust-o-leum Regal Red for the wheels and deck, it is a tad lighter, but anytime you can find a premix really close it will hold up better, especially in Red, Yellow, Orange, Blue, or Green, the Off Whites aren't too bad for color and gloss retention because there is not much colorant in them and as long as you add a little hardener to any of them they last years and years. The was no primer on most of these Garden tractors, just paint and Bolens after 1970 used a powder coat epoxy

Thanks C-101!

It appears to be 4 wheel drive and possibly air cooled? Not sure where the picture was taken

That looks almost like 1980s Allis tool bar, that held a cultivator, plow, and harrow